EXCURSION TO THE INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND.

Wellington Independent, Volume XVII, Issue 1712, 1 April 1862, Page 3

EXCURSION TO THE INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND.

[From the Wanganui Chiioniole.] (Concluded from Independent, Feb. 25 ) Thursday, 9th Jan— This morning the scenery around was magnificent Before us at a distance of some twenty miles as the crow flies at the end of a long and gen'.ly descending valley, bounded on either side by forest-girt hills lay Lake Taupo. To our left front stood Tongariro, with his head enveloped in dark and massive clouds, while on our immediate left the many peaks of Muapeuu were cleaily visible sparkling in the bright morning sun. On our right lay the Ruahiue range belted round the foot and for a considerable distance up the gullies by a dark fringe of bush. On turning round we looked down the long valley of the Wangaehu, which winds through an immense tract of swamps, from the borders of which to the foot of Munpehu there is a large tract covered with magnificent timber, while towards the left lay the valley we had come up, affonl- ' ing us a peep at the beautiful open country over which we passed, aud farther still the bush ranges which had cost us so much trouble to get through. In one respect I was rather disappointed in Muapehu, and that was in its apparent height when close to it. The fact is that the views we gei of it from the neighbourhood of this coast reach almost to its base as the plains around it are considerably more elevated than the land near the sea and therefore when close to it, it does not appear so much higher than it does fro/n a distance as one might reasonably expect it would. Proceeding on we arrived at the Waikato river, which we crossed and then entered the most dreary and desolate waste I ever beheld, consisting apparently of . burnt sand and earth covered on the top with cinders and stones partially melted into a kind of glass. No sign of grass or vegetation of any kind is here to be seen ; but all appears to have ' been burned up at no distant date by an eruption of Tongariro. This desert as to be crossed with great care, as the ground is extremely rotten and liable to break with your horse's feet, and it is necessary to lead over it carefully picking your way. We were glad enough to get to the end of this desert and enter a slightly better track beyond, and as we did so a breeze which sprung up from the south-east cleared away the clouds .and displayed Tongariro puffing forth hugh volurnns of smoke. The maories informed us that all 'this land at the foot of the mountain is covered during the winter with six or eight feet of snow. On passing Muapeh'u the country gradually becomes beautiful and park- * like, although the soil is still very arid and poor. The valley leading down to Lake Taupo consists of a series ridges levelled at the top and divided by deep gullies, and all of which the clear mountain streams dashing and bubbling of the rocks, fringed by shrubberies of minature . trees varying from two to fifteen or twenty feet in height, remind one of fancy landscape rather than the wild scenery around, the majestic beauty of which they serve to enhance. At 1 o'clock we arrived at a pah situated on the borders of the lake Moteara, immediately to the north of Tongariro, and here rising from, the hill side we first saw the steam of an hot spring. It was however too far for us to visit it. The maories received us most hospitably and supplied us with food and a whare. We managed to bag seven ducks and a flapper on the lake, and were as comfortable as possible. The only drawback being the wind having increased to a bitterly cold gale. Feiday, 10th Jan. — As we had not far to go to-day we did not start until eight o'clock, and after winding round the foot of a large hill arrived at Tohanu, the principal pah at the south end of the lake before twelve. Ou the road we passed through a very large extent of old , maori clearing and remains. This must atone time have been a large and populous town containing some thousands of inhabitants. Where now are the population that could have filled it. I forgot previously to mention that some time before leaving the bush Teira pointed out to Us the road taken by the Taupo natives in their ' last great war-like expedition, when they committed such havoc amongst the tribes about ' 'Wanganui. Our reception at Tohanu was rcost hospitable, a large whare twenty-four feet by twenty-six was cleared out, a tent" put up in the. back and a birch bed of fern strewn on the , - floor and covered with flax mats. A large box placed in the centre acted as our table and plates, basins, knives, and forks, &c, were pro- * duced, a plentiful meal of milk, potatoes, bread and fresh fish was placed before us, and we ap pea red to have arrived in quite a civilized locality and determined to make up for our previous privations by eating and sleeping to our beart'scontent. Here we were first close to the hot springs, but they are of no greatinterest as they appear like large holes full of boiling and steaming water, and are much inferior to those we afterwards seen. The ground round them is very rotten and full of holes, and the larger ones are surrounded by a level pavement of white cement and formed by their deposit when overflowing. They are most useful to the natives, as they boil potatoes, scald pigs, wash clothes, and bathe in them. We here first heard from the natives of Sir George Grey's and Mr. Fox's visit to the Waikato, and that soldiers were being employed on the roads in Auckland. Saxukday, 11th Jan. — We turned out before breakfast and made a first trial of the warm baths, but as we were not very well acquainted with their nature we got into a mess. Finding a place whare the water was a pleasant heat we undressed and stepped in and were surprised to find the mud at the bottom many degrees warmer than the water, so much so indeed as to burn our feet. However we soon jumped out and found a place with a stoney bottom which was all right. After breakfast the women came and enquired what clothes we had that we wanted washed, and we were glad enough to hand over all except those we had on. Tokanu was not at all the kind of place I expected to see. Instead of the native houses being altogether in one place, as is usual with pahs, we found them spread over a large extent of gardens, more resembling English poor allotments than anything. The laud consists of a long strip lying between some extensive swamps at the South end of the lake aud a range of hills. At the southern end this stiip abuts on the lake itself and a river runs through it, and is the agent by which it is drained. Having borrowed a canoe :;nd asked a native to accompany us we started by water to the Church of England Mission Station on the western shore, and on our way we passed several beautiful cascades. On arriving there we found the missionary, the Rev. T. S. Grace absent from home, but were most hospitably received by Mrs. Grace. They had stopping with them ft Mr. Blackburn, Principal of the Auckland College, and a Mr. Mau-nsell, a son of the Archdeacon, who were like ourselves travelling for amusement ; and from them we heard all tbe news from the north, and the issue of the Governor's visit to the Waikato. On our way home we managed to bag five wild ducks. During the evening the air became quite over

cast by the smoke from Tongariro. We found on our return that the maories had killed a splendid pig for us and were scalding it iv one of the hot springs. Sunday, 12th Jan.— Mrs. Grace having kindly invited us to do so the evening before, we went over to the mission station to spend the day, and settled with Mr. Blackburn and Mr. Maunsell to start the next morning with them on their journey home, as our routes were for a considerable distance the same. Monday, 13th Jan. — Having left what things we did not require, including one of our horses in charge of the maories, we started at eight o'clock round the eastern shore of the lake, our hospitable entertainers refusing to accept any payment for all their kindness, and supplying us with abundance of bread and pork for our journey. We were delayed for a short time at the place where they should have joined us, by waiting for our fellow travellers, and at last started without them. They however overtook us by mid-day. We crossed the Waikalo and several smaller riveis running into the lake, and here it is worthy of remark that although many rivers run in, the Waikato is the only one that runs out, and that it does not bear a body of water at all commensurate with what the lake receives from itself aud the others. Its current moreover, as I before remarked extends right through from shore to shore, and as the body of water unaccounted for is too great to be absorbed by evaporation, the natural inference is thai an underground outlet must exist, The natives speak of a whirlpool iv the centre, and describe it as dangerous to approach and capable of swallowing up the largest canoes ; this may probably be the eddy caused by the escape of the waters beneath. It is however very difficult to ascertain this fact, as they refuse to take a canoe near the place where the whirlpool exists. About dark we arrived at what we found are generally called the ' Waikato heads,' being the outlet of the lake into the river. A similar name is applied to the outlet of the river into the sea, and it appeared to me that these being the reverse might with more propriety be called ' the Waikato Tails.' However ' What's in a name.' We crossed and got supper, which was what we chiefly cared about, alter our long ride. The river here is very rapid, and as this is the overland mail route between Auckland and Hawke's Bay there are posts on either side and & rope strained over to assist a canoe in crossing during a freshet. The charges~i'or ferrying I made us recollect with a kind of affection our old friend at the Wangaehu. Two shillings for horse and man ! Maories are only charged one, and the sooner her Majesty's lieges are put on an equality in this respect the better. The ferrymen were, however, very hospitable, doiug everything in their power to make us comfortable for the night, and cooking potatoes and fish for us. Tuesday, 14th Jan.— At early dawn we had a delightful bath in the Waikato, which is here and indeed all through its course, I believe, a lovely river. Its waters are clear as crystal, and the nature of the rocks in the bed, many of which are pearly white, enable yon to see the bottom unusually clearly considering the depth. Although the hills on either side rise abruptly, yet its banks are by no means high; as a terrace lies between. The depth of the water close to the bank makes it both here and elsewhere, a bad river ior horses to cross, as the landing is somewhat difficult. We started in a northwesterly direction, and for some time ; passed over a peculiar flat country intersected by deep gullies with precipitous sides. The whole of this as well as the country to the eastward of the lake over which we passed the day before, is a species of pumice stone, and has an arid and dreary appearance. During the morning we parted from Messrs. Blackburne and Maunsell and bore more to the northward until we arrived at the native village of Orakei Korako situated on some hills immediately overlooking the Waikato. There the natives informed us that we could not proceed without a special guide, as it required an intimate knowledge of the country to find the way through the various swamps. Failing to persuade one of them to start -with us that afternoon, we were obliged to make up our minds to delay until next morning when some of them were going and offered to guide us. We were however well rewarded, for during the afternoon we strolled down to the hot springs at the foot of the hill for the purpose of examining them and there were fortunate enough to see a geyser play most beautifully. As I was the first to see it and did so from its commencement I had a full opportunity of observing it. I was just scrambling along the edge of one of the springs in an attempt to gather some very beautiful raos3 that I had observed growing there, when my attention was attracted by a splashing sound, and looking up, I saw issue from one of the springs, several large jets of steam, carrying up with them a few drops of water. Struck with this singular phenomenon, I watched it for a few moments, when suddenly there burst forth a fountain formed of steam and boiling water, attaining at fast an average height of about six or seven feet, which gradually increased to about twelve. At this height it remained, at intervals of about one-half a minute it would throw up to an height of twenty live feet and upwards. The effect was magnificient, heightened as it was by the sun shining clearly and brightly on the sparkling mass. We had our food cooked for the first time in one of the boiling spriugs. Wednesday, loth Jan. — To avoid delay we had sent our horses across the river the night before, and has the heat had been most oppress sive for several days we wished to make an early start and take advantage of the cool of the morning. We however completely failed in getting the natives to start in good time, aud when they did at last get under way, we found that our horses had been left untethered over night, and we had in consequence considerable difficulty in finding them. As the swamps did not appear very bad we rode on without our guides and soon found . that we had been crammed as we had not the least difficulty in crossing them on finding our way, which led up a long valley between two lofty ranges of hills. At the cud of about an hour and a half we arrived at some springs of boiling mud. These were very perfect miniature craters and the substance inside resembled a thick white wash or plaster of Paris mixed with water, and was apparently at a heat at least equal to that of boiling water, but, this we had no means of certainly ascertaining. The odour arising from them was much more powerful than that which we had observed from all other hot springs, and similar to that from the steam of a Locomotive engine when passing through a station. Soon after we crossed a stream of water bj a natural bridge made by the two banks having fallen in and met in the middle thus forming an arch. The temperature of the water was too high to bear the hand in. This stream must rise at no great distance in the adjoining hills, and had the heat of the sun been less oppressive we should have traced it to its source. We were however glad to press on. In ascending the hills at the head of the valley up which we had been travelling oue of out horses knocked up

i and we bad great difficulty in getting him to the top. Here we came to the dry bed of a lake 7 of considerable size Which was drained by the earthquake of 1855, opening large chasms in the bottom and thus affording an escape to the water. From the formation of the surrounding hills I should imagine it was never of any great depth and was formed by a collection of rain water, and not by any springs in the hills themselves. After passing through some bush of moderate extent we decended through a long gorge into a narrow valley, at the bottom of which we found the lake Rotokhaahi. This is one of the choicest of all the natural beauties of the interior. It lies amongst lofty hills, having on the western end a few hundred acres of level ground, its length is about 2 miles and its breadth varies from a quarter of a mile to a mile. On the level ground I have mentioned stands a native village which is the cleanest and neatest I have ever seen, abundantly supplied with fruits of all sorts. At a distance of about half a mile stands an island on which is another village. This spot is cone shaped, having a segment on the eastern side as it were cut off, thus forming a diff in that direction. On the northern side of the lake itself the hills are covered with bush to the waters edge and the Rata being in full flower at this season, lent the deep crimson colour of its flower to add to the beauty of the landscape. Our route lay along the southern shore, and as we moved on we were every moment more enchanted with the scene around' us. Arriving at the eastern. end the road took a turn to the right, over a low saddle from the top of which we saw the native town of Tarawera, so called from the lake of that name, the western end of which it overlooks. It is laid out as a township in quarter acre sections, and many of the native warries have pumice stone chimnies and ovens to them which is a great imptovement on their usual style. Two English carpenters engaged in erecting a church here received us most hospitably, and on our finding that we could procure from them a supply of the stores of which we stood in need and heard their was little to interest us on the road we determined not to proceed to Tauranga as we at first intended but to visit Rotomahana and then return. We heard that a lady on a visit to Mr. Spencer, the missionary here had been seriously injured a few days before while visiting these remarkable springs, having slipped through an hole and been severely burned by the boiling mud. During the evening our host engaged a couple of maories^to take us the next day across the lake to Rotomahana in a canoe. Thursday, 16th Jan. — The day was intolerably hot, and not a breath of air rippled the glassy face of the lake as we crossed it The charge is exhoibitaut. Five shillings per day for a canoe, and the same amount for eveiy maori engaged to paddle! Indeed here we found the attempts at extortion quite as great and far more impudent thaa at an English watering place. Nlowly and lazily the ma ones plied their paddles and our patience was fairly exhausted before we reached the mouth of the river which t empties the hot lake into the cold one ; this we found closed by a fence and all ingress prohibited, as it was the breeding season with the ducks and they are here care fully preserved. We had therefore to get out and walk ; at the end of about a mile aud a half we crossed the river just below the place where it runs from the lake, and there before us, sparkling in the sun, lay the beautiful crystal terraces that surround the principal spring. I had imagined from the short description given by Swainson, and the cursory way in which they are mentioned by Dr. Thompson in his " Story of New Zealand," that these remarkable springs were not so specially woith visiting, but I fancy now that they rather shrink from the impossible task of adequately des cribing the beauties of these miracles of uature and I must therefore excuse myself from attempting it. Mr. Swaiusonin his work, "New Zealand and its colonization" thus speaks of them, "The curious natural baths and the boiling springs of Rotomahana and Rotorua, and the scenery of Taupo, Taravera, and the neighbouring lakes will well repay the labour of a journey through the bush. Various in size and form, and lined with a frosted incrustation of delicate pink and white, these natural baths are filled with a constant supply of water of every degree of temperature. In colour of a pale sky blue ; and they are constantly overflowing a natural flight of terraces or steps by which they are approached. The hike of Rotomahana is itself one large warm bath, having a temperature of 80° ; itsmurgin being fringed from night to morning by nu merous jets of snow white steam, sent up from the boiliug springs with which the neighbourhood abounds." The terraces which are here mentioned, resemble the most beautiful alabaster, and are most grotesque and vaiied in their shapes and sizes. They are formed by the incrustation causd by the water cooling, holding as it does when at a boiling temperature various sihicates iv solution. Ou ascending them you look down from a piece of rock in the centre on this deep sky blue of this large spring, aud one might almost fancy themselves in some spot iv fairy land when standing here. As far as the day was concerned there was nothing to be desired in the way of sunshine, which is very essential for seeing the place in all its beauty, but the heai caused by the combination of the reflection of the rays and the steam of the boiliug water was quite overpowering and we were obliged to move away to avoid fainting.- At the foot of these terraces and between them are the lake, we crossed over a space consisting of boiling mud, with a thin incrustation on the top, on which you walk. This is very ticklish work, as it much resembles crossing ice which will budly bear, and bends, in, a similar manner, with the additional danger should it break, instead of a simple cold ducking of being stewed in mud beneath. Haviug crossed it we inspected several of the geysers and hot springs; oue is continually playing and throws upa big column of water to about the height of four or five feet, all the time making a rumbling sound underneath like the uoise of an engiue room. It has, however, none of the beauties which the one at Orak korako possessed. Overpowered by the heat, we rested awhile, and then stole back to the lmuth of the river, where we had a bathe, and noticed a rather lematlcable circumstance. The water, as you enter, is quite warm, but as you swim out into the lake you meet the under current of cold water coming in and by dropping your legs can have your body in hot water white your nether extremities are in cold. On our way back webought half a large kit of small cray fish fromsome uatives for a shilling. They had a large quantity of them, and no doubt the lake abounds with these delicious little shellfish. Fiuday, 17th January.— Having received an invitation over night to dine at the mission station, we went there and heard that there was a shorter road through the hill to Lake Ta'upo, we therefore determined to try it. As one of our party had got a " touch, of the sun" the day before at Rotomahana, we were unable to start until late in the afternoon, and then had to proceed slowly, consequently we did not

reach the Waikato river as we had hoped to do, but had to stop at a village about six miles before he reached the ferry. The hills over which we passed in taking this more southerly line were of a better character than any we had yet seen. We had caught up on our journey two maori boys, and they had entertained us most hospitably. : Satubday, 18th Jan.— We started early in order to get the cool of the morning for travelling and soon arrived at the Waikato. I cannot however recommend this ferry unless there be an expert swimmer amongst the party as 110 muories are living there, and if the canoe should be an the opposite side to the one you are at, which was the case with us, it is necessary for one of the party to go and bring it over. Having proceeded for a few miles up the left bank one of the horses knocked up and we had to leave Teira behind with him. We soon after arrived at a ferry and saw some maories on the other side, but has Teiva in telling us the road had said nothing about crossing here, we concluded that a track that bore to the right must be the one we should take, consequently we went a long distauce out of our way and lost about half a day. We at last caught up and passed a maori who first invited us to come to his village and eat, but on our refusing pretended to put us iu .the right direction. In about twohours we arrived at the pah where the natives asked us to stop and eat, and soon after the old fellow we had passed came up grinning from ear to ear at the little trick he had played us, as he had misdirected us to have the pleasure of entertaining us. As however he did this most liberally, baking bread, milking a cow for fresh milk, &c. ; our wrath was a good deal appeased more especially as we found here a perfect forest of laspberries trees covered with very fine fruit. The peach trees too were the finest I have ever seen, and English rye grass was growing roost luxuriously, indeed it was the most fertile spot I saw at all, but the good sod did not appear to extend over more than five or six hundred acres. The na<ne of this village is Warievvarewa. We left it during the afternoon and in about three hours arrived at the Waikato beads where we remained for the night. Sunday, 19th Jan. — Over night we had sent our horses across the river and at daylight after a last tiip in the Waikato again wended our way round the western shore of Lake Taupo we should have preferred the western side, but the road is hilly and bad for horses. The day passed without incident, and we glad enough to arrive at Tokanu and receive a hearty welcome from our hospitable friends there. Although anxious to get on I was obliged to make up my mind to rest a few days as the horses were knocked up and Teira was left behind with oue of them. Monday, 20th Jan.— Our first business after breakfast was to go and inspect a mill that the nativesarehaving erected on some rising ground near. We found v Swiss who was formerly at Wanganui engaged in the work, but he was doing it very roughly indeed, although getting a good price for the contract. His employers however seemed quite satisfied with him. I then walked to the mission station in preference to crossing in a canoe, as I had an opportunity of inspecting the lands which forms the grave of Te Heu Hen, and the beautiful cascade that I hare previously mentioned. The walk turned out a pleasant one, the view across the lake being very beautiful. There was however, a very steep hill to scramble up. I returned in the evening hoping to find Teira returned and to be able to start the next day. The first wish was gratified, but Teira declared that he was too weak for so early a start. Tuesday, 21st Jan.— As I was obliged to delay another day, we turned out duck shooting in the morning, but without much luck. In the afternoon I again scrambled to the top of the hills to take a last look at the splendid view of the lake which is there obtainable, and on my return got the horses in and made every preparation for a start the next morning. I found the natives engaged in preparing a quantity of fuod for my journey back. • VVednesday, 22nd Jan.— At half past eight I bid adieu, not without feelings of regret to our Tokanu friends who had showed us so much kindness, and with Teira as a companion started forward. After a smart ride of two hours and a half, arrived at Rotoeira, here I met a Rangitikei militia man, who informed me, that Messrs. Crawford and Deighton were on their way up on their exploring expedition and also, that I should probably meet a party of natives from this neighbourhood, these I fell in with in the course of the afternoon, and they kindly supplied me with a box of matches.' which were the only things I was short of for my journey down, as we weie well supplied with tea, sugar, and bread, meat of course we had none of, as it was too hot to keep it. We slept the night on the banks of the Wangaheu. And were lucky enough to have fine weather. Thursday, 23rd Jan.— We started at five, and on arriving at the place where we intended to breakfast, found that there was no water, we proceeded until we found some, and then there was not a slick of wood to be seen, at lastWter riding a long distance we found both, and gathering a few loug stunted sticks managed to boil some water and make our tea. Teira informed me, that we should get lots of foadatthe deserted pah we had passed, as there were lots of maories there, as he had dropped nearly all the potatoes, this was very cheering, but on arriving at it we found it again deserted. The heat was vary great and one of the horses began to show signs of knocking up. We however, proceeded, and soon entered the toilsome bush track. I had intended to stop at a place called Terata, buc on arriviug there I did not recognize it and we passed ou, as night was approaching, Teira asked me where I intended to sleep, and on saying " Terata," he grinned and said it was far back. In consequence we had great difficulty in finding water, had not oue scrap of food for our horses. Fbiday, 24th Jan.— l had over night told Teria to tether the horses but ou awaking just before day break, I could ouly find one. I theiefore had to wait while he went back and looked for the other. At last we got off after losing one hour and proceeded to a stream called Miirgounee, where we breakfasted ; sooa after this one of the horses knocked up, so, as it might be a day or two before he could move on — I immediately took stock of the provisions aud fouud that the two of us could not remain for more than two days. I therefore at once made up my mind to continue the journey alone leaving Teria with the horses and giving him all the food I could possibly spare, and with a hunch of bread and a box of sardines I started for a weary two days journey through the bush. The weather being line I had few of the difficulties to contend with which we encouutered going up, and night found me on the banks of the Kangitikei river. There I met some natives from the Rev Rev pah travelling with cittle to the interior. A fine eel and some roasted potatoes, followed by some dumplings boiled in sugar and water were placed before me for supper, and I rolled up comfortably enough in ray blankets before oue of their fires.

Saturday. 25th Jan — As I was uncertain whether I could reach home in the day I started at early dawn and at eleven o'clock eat part oi my bread for breakfast, but the sardines turnec' out a dead letter as I was afraid to use my knife to cut the box open lest I should break th ( e r bjade and have nothing to cut me out of tbe riext lot of supplejacks that I got tied up in. I tried my stirrup aud a stone but it was all no go, and I had at last to give up in dispair. I managed by dint of hard work to reach home that evening soon after dark. Having concluded my journal I will had a few general remarks on the country and its capabilities for sheep farming, agriculture, road making, &c. &c. In the first place the term of central plains as applied to the district through which I passed is in a great measure a misnomer, as there are none properly speaking but rather a series of rolling ridges level on the top and intersected by small valleys. The soil on all these is for the most part very poor and totally unfit for agricultural purposes. For pasturage, the grasses are coarse and spare, and I cauuot fancy that any station would be able to pay its expences unless it had a very large space of country to graze over and a quantity of stock to begin on. The land to the westward of Tongariro is I believe better, but this I had not an opportunity of ascertaining for myself. With regard to roads I am of oppinion that a very practicable route might be found through the bush range, as has I believe been previously thought of, but I fancy that on the country being carefully examined for tbe purpose on easier one might be found up the valley of {he Wangaehu, and one which would be less liable to suffer obstruction from snow during the wintermonths. At the present time however, and with the roads as they are, I cannot see why the southern portion of the north island cannot be putin communication overland with Auckland and thus enjoy the same advantages which Hawke's Bay receives. The mail arriving at Taupo might from thence surely have a branch line either down the Wanganui liver or through the Rangitiki district, meeting the coast mail from Wanganui to Wellington, and the receipt of letters by these routes would be a great boon to the inhabitants of both Wanganui and Wellington. As far as tbe natives are concerned I should imagine that as the Waikatoes giaciously permit the mail to pass through the whole length of.their territory, we need not fear opposition, particularly as the Queen's mail is no longer to'be stopped, but still if there is such a felling, we must deprocate a plan, which, although a convenience to both races, is in a way " calculated to excite the the maori mind." On the whole, although there were some difficulties and a £ew discomforts to contend against, the journey was very delightful, and one I should strongly recommend to all lovers of adventure, and I should be very happy to assist any one who intends taking it, in informing them the best stores, &c. to take with them. For maps we are at a great loss, but as far as I could judge the one in Dr Thompson's New Zealand, is decidedly the best' and most accurate that I have met with. The journey properly undertaken is very inexpensive, and well rewards the traveller for any difficulties he may have to encounter. In conclusion I must add, that lam neither botanist, geologist, nor maori scholar, it is needless to apologise for any mistakes I have made, as my only plea could be that I have jotted dowh things as they struck me naturally and uot scienfically.