Gardening Notes.

Wairarapa Daily Times, 27 January 1932, Page 2

Gardening Notes.

Making Plans. We have now reached that period in the gardening year when we should begin seriously to make plans for the coming season. Thccs plans may include nothing more revolutionary than the replanting of herbaceous borders or some small extension to an existing rock gaining season. These plans 'may include of the surroundings which offend owing to their want of form or distinction, or even by their absolute ugliness . it is now when these ideas are fresh in the mind that the contemplated alterations should be considered and plans perfected for carrying them out, At this sea--6011. it is aii easy matter to mow off am. collect in a heap any weeds; in a few days they will burn without any trouble. Not only can new plans be devised, but it- is now obvious if we have planted shrubs too sparsely or too thickly, if plants are. in a wrong position, or we have planted out of reach some plant that should be within reach, and so on. All these points can be dealt with now while the weather allows free access to all parts of the garden, and no matter how much we enjoy it now, it. is possible by making alterations to have it nearer perfection and to make it more enjoyable.

Plants in Tubs. plants in. tubs and large pots probable suffer from starvation more than any other section, of plants. It is seldom considered that the roots are confined to a small quantity of soil, and in addition every watering washes out a portion of the soluble matter, when there is any soluble part left to wash out. Once the roots of a plant have traversed the soil and are round the sides of the pot there is need of feeding. Actually, unless the roots lift the plants out, as"in the ease of palms, or burst the pot there is no limit to the time a plant occupies a pot or tub provided it is supplied with manure in a liquid soluble form. In the case of large plants it is necessary to apply weak applications with almost every watering or in other words to give always a weak solution of plant food. The same manure should not be used throughout the season, but a little of any and every kind of soluble plant food should be given.

ROS6S. When the flowers have fallen from roses, the shoots should be cut back to the uppermost plump bud. The removal of the seed heads and the partial pruning will give the plants a good start towards a good autumn show ol bloom. Dust the plants with sulphur to keep down black spot, and should caterpillars appear, add a little arsenate of lead powder to the sulphur. A dressing of manure, such as superphosphate n\e parts, sulphate of ammonia, two parts, and potash one part, will materially help in producing good flowers.

Layering Herbs. Lavender, sage and thyme are herbs that should be found in every garden. The two first-mentioned, however, have a habit of dying out; sometimes a plant will live for years and then suddenly leave off without so much as a farewell flutter. The best way to deal with them is to layer a plant or so each yea I', 1 ', and in this way have a few young plants always coming m to replace losses. They are not difficult to layer; m fact, they really only need tli: soil pot round the. stems and left till the roots are emitted. Bone now, the plants can be lifted next, spring, cut apart and planted up as individual plants. These herbs require a well-drained, sunny position; excessive damp or wet soil is fatal.

Swedes. In sowing swede turnips, use the gulden swede. It is of medium size and not quite so strong as the field sorts. They need similar treatment to tutnips: Sow thinly and single out, allowing eight, inches between the plants. It is possible if the, weather is showery to transplant the small seedlings, but usuallv there is quite sufficient seed of good quality to allow of thin sowing and transplanting is unnecessary.

Chrysanthemums. Staking chrysanthemums is not the least important work, and it must he done well or a breeze will soon break away a few of the shoots, and with them a season’s work. Three or four stakes placed round the plants, and one shoot tied to each, give good results: where more than four growths are developing, strands of raffia tied round the outside of the stakes and plants will hold them securely. Each plant should ho examined for caterpillars, and if any are present they should be killed at once; a spraying with arsenate of lead is the best safeguard. Rust does not seem to be very severe, but a few. days dull and wet weather would probably give it a chance to develop. Either dust the plants with flowers of sulphur or spray with lime sulphur solution or Bordeaux-. Any bad leaves at the base of the plant should be picked off and burnt. Topdressing with some rich compost, applications of liquid manure or of some good fertiliser should be applied. Probably the best method of feeding is top-dressing v ith a rich compost and applications of liquid manure. A "complete” fertiliser or plant food should be used, for it must be remembered that a good root system and a firm solid stem with leave's of a leathery textnure is necessary to develop a good flower. Avoid anything which tends to produce large, flabby leaves and a sappy stem. me soil round the plants should be kept loose and like a dust, this apart from the top-dressing recommended above is the best kind of mulching to use. The use of a heavy moisture-retaining mulch cannot be generally recommended. With some growers the result is a

Fruit, Flowers and Vegetables.

soft, sappy growth that goes down with disease at the first spell of dull weather. Do not be too anxious to produce a quick, rapid growth; at this time of the year the plants are usually making steady, slow progress, often not fast enough for the amateur who likes to see them speeding on like a sunflower. In fact, the plants seem to move very slowly just now, but actually they are building up a firm constitution and root system which will be reflected in a rapid growth once the cooler and mobster days of autumn get here. Should aphis appear, lose no time in spraying with nicotine or similar spray. It bs

lunch easier to keep plants aiu. secure by anticipating the attacks of pests and disease than by waiting till they appear and then attempting a cine. The same advice applies to staking; keep the growths upright and firm and less staking will be needed when the plants are allowed to got a twist or bend on them before the stakes are put in. Surplus lateral growths must be pinched out so as to divert the energies of the plant into the growths that are to carry the flowers. The number of growths which each plant is allowed to retain depends on whether they are grown for exhibition or for decorative purposes, and also on the variety, foi some of the best exhibition sorts are anything but good when grown for decorative or cut flower purposes; in fact, the two classes are almost distinct from one another, although a few varieties are good in both classes. The singles, when well grown, are outstanding as decorative flowers, and give a wealth of bloom over a fairly long period. Of course, the single varieties referred to are actually singlc-llowered sorts, and not poorly grown double sorts which have been allowed to develop an open bloom. * * * *

Bending Down Onions. Many growers of onions put much faith in the bending over of the tops of the plants as a means of securing large bulbs with small “necks.” ■ dust exactly what influence this bending down has it is impossible to say, but it does tend to hasten ripening. The work must be done with some c-are, for if strong stems are forcibly bent over some of the skins will be ruptured, with the result, that the bulb will send out new leaves and the probability is that the bulb will split. The time to bend over the tops is when the skin of the bulb is dry and the leaves begin to show signs of ripening off. If the nec-k of the bulb is felt between the thumb and. finger it will be found to be soft and pliable. After bending over the tops the bulbs should be left until thoroughly dry, when they should be lifted and stored. Although it is essential that the bulbs should be left on the ground until thoroughly dry, they should not be left exposed to hot sun 'onger than necessary.