Gardening Notes.

Wairarapa Daily Times, 14 January 1932, Page 2

Gardening Notes.

Greenhouse and Nursery. Tuberous begonias, which so far have been prevented from developing their flowers, can be allowed to do so now, and they will soo be ready to take the place of the pelargoniums and geraniums, which can be placed out into a frame to ripen off, with a view to taking cuttings later on. Geraniums are, however, very useful during the winter and it may be considered advisable simply to dress them and put them into a cold frame to grow on. Seedlings of cinerarias and primulas can be potted up into three-inch pots and stood on a bed of ashes in the cool greenhouse or out in a cold frame where they will be kept as cool as possible.

The Flower Garden. Attend to staking and hoeing, cut the old flower stalks off the delphiniums, iris, and other hardy perennials which are’past their best, but do not remove any of the foliage yet. Lift and store spring flowering bulbs of all kinds, and prepare ground for liming out the wallflower seedlings. This means breaking up and working in a good dressing of lime. Though the rock garden is not so bright or so interesting during the summer as during the spring, it should not bo neglected, and must be kept weeded and watered should the weather continue to be dry. Cut off all old seed stalks and clear out any pockets which are unsatisfactory.

Early Chrysanthemums. —These are now growing very fast, and if really good results are desired, they must receive a fair amount of attention. If not already done, staking should be attended to at once. Spraying will lie necessary to keep down greenfly, and to prevent thrlps from establishing themselves in the points of the growths. At this season it is only in the case of severe drought that watering is necessary, but the hoe should be run through the ground every few days.

Leaf Propagation. —During summer there are quite a number of plants which may be propagated by Teaf cuttings; that is, by mature leaves removed from the stem or branch that bore them, without any of the latter being used, as with ordinary cuttings. Rex begonias, gloxinias, eeheverias, and streptocarpus are easily raised by this means. Young leaves shrivel, old leaves turn yellow and die, so that a supply of mature leaves is essential. The mid-rib on the under side of the leaves should be partially cut through with a sharp knife, and plantlets may be expected to develop at each cut. Pans or boxes filled with a compost of equal parts loam, leaf soil, and sand should be got ready before the leaves are taken off. After the mid-ribs are cut insert the stalk in the soil, keeping the right side of the leaves up. Keep the leaves flat and in contact with the soil by means of small pegs

Fruit, Flowers and Vegetables.

such as ladies'’ hairpins, passing the pegs through the leaves at tne nuuWater with a line rose, and puiec in a glass covered box in a shaded position in the greenhouse. When plantlets form, break up the leaves anu put into small 'pots. The tiny tubers on gloxinias will have to be Kept cosy all winter. „ * * * Vegetables. Wake small sowings of carrots of the stump rooted varieties and onions, lettuce, spinach, radish, mustard and cress to keep up a succession. Peas. —for a supply of late pods a sowing of these can be made now, and another about the end of the month. As there is no chance of late varieties, maturing before we get severe frosts, only early sorts such as William Hurst, English Wonder, and American "Wonder should be sown. . Should we get a sharp frost about the beginning of April, the plants from a late January sowing will have their pods spoiled. If the ground is at all dry it must be well soaked a few hours prior to drawing the drills. When the plants are growing, watering and hoeing must be seen to as occasion demands. Dwarf beans. —The last sowing of the season should be made about the middle of the month. If left later there is a danger of the plants getting damaged by early frosts. A somewhat sheltered site should be selected, one facing north with some protection from the south-west.

* * * Earthing Celery. r Before beginning to earth up celery, remove all short or withered leaves, also suckers, so as to have only good leaves for earthing up. Tie raffia or string round the leaves to hold them together. Then put a brown-paper collar Tound them to keep out soil while the operation is being carried out. The paper may be pulled upwards a little each time fresh soil is added. * . * * * Liquid Manure Tips. Never apply liquid manure to ground that is dry. Eirst saturate with clear water.

Never apply liquid manure to plants that are sickly. In summer apply liquid manure in the evenings, if possible. Always apply liquid manure weak, strong manure burns the roots and does more harm than good. Plants that need liquid manure at present:—Hollyhocks, liliums, scabious, dahlias, gladioli (that have not bloomed), pansies, violas, asters, carnations (soot water), herbaceous phlox, summer rhubarb, tomatoes (if fruit is set), celery (if plants have been in ground at least one month). Give celery ; }oz. of nitrate of soda in one gallon of water and weak soot water alternately once a week.