Gardening Notes.

Wairarapa Daily Times, 21 November 1928, Page 6

Gardening Notes.

feliady Borders. Borders and beds that face south are often the most neglected part, of the -garden because it is commonly thought That nothing will grow in them. Clean them up, and treat them as well as the rest of the garden, and plant them with pansies. begonias, primroses, polyanthus and fuchsias. * * * * Tlie Bose of the Year. *‘II.S." writing in a trade journal, says: -‘When the merits of the various novelties gi re weighed, I think Chaplin's Pink Uambler will be fancied as the leading one of its. season. For one thing, Ramblers are wanted, and the above has been shown repeatedly since the spring; it must, therefore be something of a perpetual one in providing its blossom, and it should come into vcgr.c quickly and prove a. remarkable acquisition.” ■. y £ * * * * Dry Weather Plants. - We are not all fortunate enough to 1 1 ave an unlimited supply of water for irrigation purposes and even if ve were s 0 well placed, many would not have the time to give ample supplies, to cverv plant. The consequence is that in many gardens the dry weather soon tells on the plants. Where water or time for applying it is not at tillable, it is best to use more of those plants that will stand more or less droughty conditions. Amongst those plants that will be found useful for such are antirrhinums, geraniums, both the ivy-leaved and zonal varieties, petunia and portulacea. I’ortulacea is an annual and There are both double and single dowered varieties. The seed can be sown now and the plants will grow and bloom in positions where it is too dry for the ordinary plant. * * * * The Primrose:. The primrose is loved by everyone, yet it is not used in gardens to anything like tlie extent it might be. it *Ts not very pfiriießllr as to soil ami situation, although it does best where qk can have slight shade and shelter from the dry, cold ‘winds of early

spring. Another point—-to see it at its bo sit it should be grown where the soil does not become dry. for it enjoys

a cool, moist root-run, hence it is at home in the bog garden or on the banks of a pond or stream. Under trees and shrubs it may be naturalised; as an edging to spring beds it is very effective; it is a delightful subject for the rock garden; and it makes a pretty little pot-plant. In a cold frame, flowers can be had all the winter. In addition to the. yellow primrose, there are also varieties with white, red and blue flowers, the shades varying somewhat in depth, but all very beautiful-. Resides this, there are double varieties, but these need more care and attention, or they deteriorate quickly. Double primroses should have a deep mellow-and rather rich loam, and must be grown where they are not scorched by hot sun. The present is a good time to sow seed, which, as with all the primulas, is

irregular in germinating. To increase existing stocks the old plants may be taken up and divided, either as soon as they have finished flowering, or some time in earlv autumn. Many of the choice sorts can only be increased Infills- method.

Eight and Wrong Pruning. An unfruitful tree is the result of wrong pruning, in the majority of cases. In the effort to restore the balance as between roots and branches, where the latter arc constantly being removed.- the rtfbts will only work all the harder to make more growth! and the pruner defeats his own object!. If the tree is left alone for three seasons, with the exception of taking out- sap wood and crossing branched, the balance will be restored. The roots will have all their work cut out to supply water and energy to the wood that Is left, and «o-will have no time nor surplus materials to make new wood. All the dormant wood buds will then develop into active fruit buds, and these will be studded right down tho whole length of the unpruned bough. When these commence to fruit, yet another restricting Influence is present, and the tree may then cease to make new growth at all. At this stage the power may commence to use his skill in pruning, and should know just the right amount of wood to remove in order to upset the balance that active growth must commence again and new wood made.

With a very weak grower, the best treatment is to prune very hard indeed and manure heavily, and growth will be the automatic result. There are certain exceptions, of course, but these rlo not alter the principle. With cordon fruit trees the position is that, during the lifetime of the tree, conditions are grossly unnatural from the viewpoint of the tree. There is a fully developed root system, but only one branch, and n 0 matter at what angle we allow this to grow in order to restrict growth and encourage fruit buds, yet, unless we do something unnatural (root prune), we shall not get fruit, but growth. Wh)lot it is absurd to grow strong varieties as ■cordons, yet there will always be people who want to grow them, and in •sueli cases root pruning must be resorted to if fruit is desired. For the commercial grower of fruit, however, I leave no hesitation in heartily condemning the practice as a crude and amateurish attempt to rectify lack of knowledge in other directions. loach tree, as well as each variety, must be treated as individuals, and must be pruned accordingly Two trees of the fi ame variety growing in the same gar-

Flowers and Vegetables.

den may, and often do, require entirely different treatment in the matter of pruning, and they rarely get it because primers and many commercial fruit growers will deal with their trees bv rule of thumb, which, in this matter, as with so many others, will unfailingly lead to failure. -

Seasonable Don’ts. Don’t put, tender plants out, however favourable the weather may be, without first ‘‘hardening off’.’’ To do so will be a loss rather than a gain of time. Don't plant indiscriminately; get out the hardiest things —snapdragons, for example—first of all, follow on with the tender plants, such as begonias. Don't fail to give a. thorough watering an hour or two before planting; otherwise you are increasing the check to the plant. Don’t overlook the importance of planting in the evening or on a dull day, rather than during the heat of the day. Don't forget that, where temporary shade can lie-given in sunny weather, plants newly put in will recover more quickly than otherwise they would do. Sin-h shading can usually be dispensed with after four or live days. Don’t plant in ground which, since digging, lias become dry and lumpy. Sprinkle it well with water, then break it down as finely as possible. Don’t fail to give a thorough soaking of water immediately a bed or border is finished. This will set tic the line soil around the roots.

Don't overcrowd; picture Ihe plants as they will, be in three months' time, and give them room accordingly. On the other hand, avoid having a too sparsely planted bed. Don’t plant lobelia, alyssum, etc., too near the edge of the beds cut in the lawn. In the course of the dimmer they will spoil the edge of the grass if not kept back from it. Keep a clearly defined edge. Don’t forget that beds laid out in the “carpet” style need a good deal of attention through the summer to keep the priitorn distinct. If time cannot be spsu‘ l ?t 1 . for tins, if: will be fill* 01 *° leave this class of bedding alone. Don’t destroy any spare plant's tor 1 week or so after planting. There are often mishaps, in which efise they will be needed for tilling blanks. Don’t fail to continue watering in the evenings as necessary until the plants show signs of having become osta blished.