The Home Garden

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 85, Issue 31, 6 February 1941, Page 10

The Home Garden

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Autumn Flowers. When grouping plants for autumn display it should be remembered that some are effective only if planted in groups or masses, and that many disappointments in particular flowers are due to the wrong method of cultivation being employed. As an illustration of what I mean, give two gardeners each a dozen Gladiolus or Doffodil bulbs. One may plant out the bulbs singly m different parts of the garden and will not at any time be impressed with his display. The other, if a practical man, will group his dozen bulbs together in a circle or cluster, and in one particular part of the garden, at least, will have a show that attracts attention. The attractiveness of a garden display is largely gauged by the quantity and blending of colour. In small gardens it is by far the best policy to limit the number of varieties of flowers so that a good show of perhaps two or three sorts may be grown. In small spaces the same limitation in colour should be practised. When planting out summer annuals never group less than half a dozen plants together if a bold display is desired. Where space is available increase the number of plants to perhaps a dozen or two, keeping in mind that the larger the area of a given colour the more attractive it is. . These remarks apply particularly to such plants as Salvias, Zinnias in separate colours, and Asters. To scatter these subjects singly about the garden is to invite disappointment. Dwarf plants, such as Phlox. Dianthus, Celosia, Marigolds, Portulacas and Petunias, are almost valueless as single specimens, so if you put out only a dozen plants, make them into one or two groups only. If you have more plants, enlarge the groups rather than multiply them. You can probably recall gardens that hiNe caught your eye at different times, and I venture to say that in practically every instance a mass of colour has been the arresting factor. Compare some of our present displays of Cinerarias,'Stocks and Violas bedded out in masses with other gardens containing a jumbled mixture of plants, and: decide which pleases you most. Whether your garden is large or small, don’t make the mistake of trying to grow too many different varieties of flowers; limit the selection and make a good display of each. As tastes vary, some gardeners will favour different varieties to others, but there is such a wide range of summer bedding plants available that almost any particular colour scheme may be had without great difficulty. In reds we have Salvia Bonfire, Cockscomb, Zinnias, Verbenas and Phlox. In yellows, selections may be made from Zinnias, Celosia, Pyrethrum, Calliopsis, Marigolds, Nasturtiums and Miniature Sunflowers. Those who favour blue may select from Salvia Farinacia. Blue Butterfly Delphinium. Asters. Petunias and Lobelia. In pinks, Snapdragons, Petunias. Phlox, Zinnias, Asters are the most popular subjects. Besides these there are dozens of other flowers that will furnish almost any desired shade of colour. Lovers of Asters will be interested to learn of a new colour in this popular flower, in what is known as the Paeony-flowered type. This is an exceptionally fine late-flowering Aster. The immense double blooms measure four to five inches across, and are made up of numerous petals which fold gracefully towards the centre, as in Paeonies. They are almost round, and have a grace that makes them desirable for the garden display and for cutting. The flowers are borne on stems fifteen to twenty inches long. The new variety is called Golden Salmon. I don’t know where the word “Golden” comes in, but presume that as the colouring of the flower is described as a rich salmon pink, there is a golden sheen or tint in the general colouring. Sometimes names are misleading, and from what I know of Asters I would hesitate to attach too much importance to any shade of yellow in association with this flower, but as this variety has been introduced by a very reliable European grower, I feel there must be some justification for the name “Golden” being attached to it. However, as Golden Salmon is very highly recommended overseas. it seems worthy of a trial here. The popularity of Zinnias for summer and autumn display was never greater than it is at present. Their bright colours, combined: with their lasting qualities, so appeal to the majority of gardeners that few summer shows are considered complete without Zinnias in some form or other. While the Giant and Dahlia-flowered type in mixed colours has been popular for a number of years, there has recently come into the picture a dwarf type known as the “Tom Thumb” or "Lillipttt” Zinnia, a very dwarf and small-flowered strain that makes a wonderful border display. These plants are literally covered with flowers of the pompom Dahlia style, and remain in bloom for months. Probably the brightest of the Tom Thumb varieties is one called “Little Red Riding Hood,” a most vivid scarlet, the effect of which, if used for a border, can be imagined. This variety is certainly worthy of a trial. Of the taller growing Zinnias there is no strain comparable to the Giant Dahlia-flowered in a mixture of the brightest colours. The plant which is a very vigorous and sturdy in growth, reaches a height of from three to four feet. The large magnificent blooms that greatly resemble decorative Dahlias, and average from four to five inches across, are borne on strong stems, clear of foliage, which make them very desirable for cut flowers as well as garden decoration. They include various shades of pink, yellow and lavender, which blend in a most harmonious manner and give a bed or border an unusually artistic effect, besides supplying many fine flowers for cutting. While speaking of the Giant Dahlia-flowered Zinnia, I would like to draw your attention to what I consider the three finest colours in this popular class. These are the scarlet, rose pink and orange. Imagine what a show any one of these colours would make in the mass! The Scarlet Dahlia-flowered Zinnia is an intense dazzling colour, as bright as anything usually seen in flowers. The variety Luminosa is an entirely new shade, being a charming deep pink with a light suffusion of salmon; this is a delightful shade for cutting as well as garden decoration. The orange shade is a combination of rich orange and gold that actually glistens in the sun; this is also a delightful colour for inside decoration Planting Lilies of the Valley An old and favourite flower, rich in perfume, the lily of the valley, is often sadly neglected in some gardens. Frequently it is assigned some out-of-the-way corner, left to itself for years, and forgotten to such an extent that roots become so overgrown and matted together that the few flowers furnished are poor in quality. These lilies cannot go for an indefinite time without showing signs of deterioration, and nothing short of taking the roots up, sorting them, and replanting in good material, can save them. Autumn is the best time for planting fresh crowns or dividing old ones. They are best served when given a shaded or partly shaded place as the north side of the garden, and although common soil is often deemed good enough for them, loam, leaf mould, and rotted manure, well incorporated, will give better results. In the case of old crown they should be pulled to pieces and the largest separated from the thin and small corms, planting the latter in a spot to themselves so that they can recuperate and become established. Once established, lilies of the valley benefit greatly if given weak applications of liquid manure occasionally, but for some reason not easy to understand: these helps-by-the-way are little thought of. Yet what sweeter fragrance can one have among lilies than these give? When the bed has been planted and finished do the extra that will benefit them greatly—viz., cover with a coating of fine leaf mould. No better mulch can be given them. Raising Shrubs From Cuttings In Summer One of the peculiarities of gardening, and a particularly interesting one, is that a person of little experience may succeed in the cultivation of a difficult plant that defies the efforts of a lifetime gardener. In no field is this more marked than in propagating from cuttings. Cuttings can be rooted out of doors during summer, but they must be carefully sheltered from wind and shaded from sun. The usual practice is to select short shoots of soft or onlv partially ripened wood, four to five inches long, and set them at two or three inches apart in a bed of well prepared sandy soil. Among the easiest shrubs to increase in this way are the forsythias, or Golden Bell shrub. These are valuable for massing, succeed in ordinary soil, and flower earlv in the year. A popular type is F. sieboldii, which has graceful arching stems bearing the golden bells, and another of more erect habit is F. viridissima, which bears profusely. Veronica, escallonia and fuchsia are also easily increased in the summer. The cuttings may be inserted in flower pots or a prepared border. A good general compost is made up of two parts fibrous loam, one part, leaf mould and one part silver sand. Peat may be used in ptace of leaf mould. Good draining is essential. The cuttings should be taken with a slight heel of older wood. If they are to be inserted in a bed of soil the surface should be covered with sand and the cuttings dibbled in in lows, inserting them to onethird their length. Some people root summer cuttings entirely in sand and it is a good practice, but if they are allowed to remain in the sand long after they are rooted they become weak. Almost any kind of" shrub can be tried from soil or semi-ripe cuttings during summer. Cuttings of some kinds root better when inserted in a bed of sandy soil in a cold frame, notably broom, some of the berberis, the harder-wooded spireas, helianthemum and: the pyracantha, or evergreen thorn. February is a good month to insert them and they should be left undisturbed until the following spring except for watering when necessary and shading from bright sun. Cuttings of the hardy heaths should be inserted in well-firmed sandy peat in a cold frame. These are necessarily small and tender and need careful handling. They must be well firmed when inserted. As a rule the large-leaved rhododendrons do not root readily from cuttings, but more success will be met with the small leas ed varieties.