THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 80, Issue 100, 30 April 1938, Page 13

THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN. Plant any Narcissi, Hyacinths, or Tulips, etc. Weed bulbs that are coming through the ground. Further plantings of Anemones and Ranunculi can be made. Sow Pansies, Violas, Ten Week and Beauty Stocks. Plantings of early flowering plants such as Pansies and Iceland poppies can be made. Clear away any annuals, ete., that have finished. Liliums can be lifted and replanted. Remove spent blooms of Dahlias. Cut down herbaceous plants that have quite finished flowering. Chrysanthemums will need attention to disbudding and tying. Make a sowing of Mignonette. Clean the Violet bed, cutting away the runners. Spray with limesurphur if red spider is present. THE GREENHOUSE. Put out any plants that have finished flowering. Many of the regular inhabitants of the greenhouse can be stood outside to ripen their buds. Do not attempt to force the plants. Less water and more ventilation is needed. Keep stages and floors clear of old leaves, dead blooms, moss any anything that will encourage mould. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Sow Onions for spring planting. Those that are up should be k. pt weeded. Prepare the ground for a few early Potatoes. Plant Lettuce for winter supply. Endive should be planted. This is a good winter salad. The plants are easily blanched. Earth up Celery as it is required. Choose a dry day for the work. Leeks will need soil drawn up to stems. These respond to liquid manure. Clear away all spent crops and dig over or sow down with a cover crop all vacant plots. Keep the Tomato plants tied up. They will continue to give a few good fruits if kept clean. Pumpkins, Marrows, etc., should be harvested as they mature. Store in a dry shed away from rats. A spraying may be necessary to keep down the white caterpillar grub. Arsenate of lead is the best antidote. THE ORCHARD. Cuttings of Gooseberries and Red Currants can be planted. Prepare the ground for planting Strawberries. Any trees that are useless should be cut down and put on the fire heap. Pick up all fallen fruit and feed to pigs or poultry or bury it. Gather and store late Apples and Pears. These should be handled carefully or their keeping qualities will he impaired.

PEACH TREES

make gross wood that fails to ripen and falls a prey to canker and other diseases, should be taken in hand this autumn. Where any of the above symptoms are present in trees it will be found that the main roots most likely have entered the soil. The longer they reme.in in this state the worse they will become, or on the other hand it may be the soil which may not be suitable, in which case similar results will accrue. The first thing to do when com-

LIFTING THE ROOTS Those with little experience do not fully realise the beneficial results of lifting the roots of peach and nectarine trees when they are in an unsatisfactory state. Trees with leaves of a sickly colour, and which do not either set or swell fruits kindly, or

mencing the lilting of the roots is to open a good sized trench about five or six feet away from the stem of the tree. To go down two or three feet will not be oo deep, and in the operation cut through all the roots with a sharp knife. Then with a fork break down the soil from among the roots, removing all the loose soil with the spade from the bottom of the trench. Continue this work until within a few inches of the bole of the tree. If there are many roots they must be tied carefully to the bole of the tree to hold them rside as forking proceeds.

Assuming the tree is to remain in its present position it should be undermined to ascertain if there are any roots ’\t go straight down. Wh?n this operation has been completed the drainage must be carefully looked to, and if it is seen that the subsoi’ is hard and so close that the drainage is at fault, part of the subsoil should be removed, and a layer of rubble placed directly under the tree; fairly large pieces can be used, which should be covered with a finer material, and on top of this a layer of grass turves, with grass side downwards.

The excavation need not be a deep one, two feet or so is quite ufficient, and although the rubble, etc. added will rise the tree so that it will practically be on a mould, it will be an advantage, as i. will help to improve the drainage. The dramage having been completed, return some of the soil over it and commence relaying the roots covering each layer with a shovelful or two of good loam, with a little mortar rubbish mixed with it shaking the compost well down t.mong the roots. Continue this alternate layer of roots and soil until the whole are in position again, keeping most of them ner " the surface of the border. Little pruning of the roots is required, just cutting the ends with a sharp knife where the spade has cut them, and chor*.ning back a few of the long throng-like roots that are without fibres. As the soil is replaced over the roots make it moderately firm.

Just how old or at what age a tree can be successfully transplanted depends upon the treatment it received in the first years of its life, and also the. subsequent treatment accorded it. If a tree is pest-infested, decrepit, anc with a cankered stem exuding blobs of gum, it is questionable if the trouble of lift.’ng is worthwhile, and the best remedy is to dig it out ana commit it to the fire heap, afterwards preparing the ground as above and planting a young tree. There are trees, however, which are worth the trouble. In many cases the cause of the tree not to do well is due to too deep planting, or unsuitable soil conditions for which the above method is a remedy. Age of the tree is no guide as to whether it is advisable to do the work, but the best time to carry out the operation is as soon as the leaves begin to fall. There is actually no need to wait till all the

foliage has 'alien, and if the work is done early, that is during April or May, the t-'ee will probably give a light crop next season. The usual pruning should be carried out, soon after replanting is finished.

PLANTING RANUNCLLUS.

The ranunculus has long been a favourite f< spring flowering, and the introduction, in recent years, of some greatly improved strains has directed increased attention to this fine old flower.

The Giant French type is vigorous in growth and flowers very freely, and a trial should certainly be given to the Giant Florentine strain, raised by Dr. Ragioneri. It is characterised by very large and beautifully formed flowers having a wide colour range. These new forms have caused quite a sensation at spring flower shows. The corms enjoy a rich, well drained soil in which some very old cow manure has been m’xed. They are curiously formed, quite unlike other corms, and must be planted with the claws pointing downwards, 4in, to 6in. apart. It is a good plan to bed them in a little sand, and as an immediate covering over this, use the finest of the soil. The crown of the corm should be 2in. below the surface.

Later, in the early spring, a mulching with some veil decayed manure will be of benefit and will assist in the production of healthy foliage and first rate blossoms. If the weather should be dry in spring, copious waterings will be necessary in order to obt in the best from the plants, for although the corms will not tolerate stagnant moisture, sufficient must be available for the welfare of the plants, allowing any surplus to drain freely away.

AURICULAS

The auricula, known to the children as the “dusty miller,” seems to be relegated to the old cottage garden. Yet it should find a place in every garden, for nowhere is there a more fragrant or charming spring flower, the alpine auricula is a delightful plant, early flowering, sweet scented and of beautiful colours. New plants may be purchased from nurserymen, and the old ones may now be broken up and replanted. Auricula grow best on the shady side of a house, or under the shade of deciduous trees. In the latter position they get the sun during winter and shade during the summer, and that is what they like. Before planting auriculas mix with the soil plenty of leaf mould, river sand and wellrotted sifted cow manure.

Each year after the flowering is over the top inch of soil should be removed from around auriculas and should be replaced with a mixture of

loam, leaf mould, sand and broken up cow manure. This will give the plants new rooting ground, and will help to build up strong plants for the next season’s flowering.

THIN OUT RAMBLER ROSES

Rambler and climbing roses should be given attention. The ramblers that flower only once may have the old stems cut out and the young ones tied up securely to prevent breakages, or be fastened permanently, if convenient. Many of the climbers are perpetual flowering, but the long shoots will require tying or nailing to prevent them from getting broken down by the autumn winds.

BLACK CITRUS APHIS At the present time there seems to be quite a plague of black aphis which infest the young autumn growth of citrus trees. These should be removed at the earliest possible moment by means of an appropriate spray, or the young twigs will be crippled in their growth. One of the best specifics against aphis is nicotine sulphate—two teaspoons to a gallon of water —with plenty of soap added to the water to make a good lather. The spraying should be done while the sun is shining, as the heat of the sun will cause the fumes of the nicotine to rise amongst the foliage, thus asphyxiating the insects not killed by contact. It is advisable to repeat the dose in a few days to make sure of those insects missed the first time.