THIS WEEK’S GARDENING GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 80, Issue 89, 16 April 1938, Page 13

THIS WEEK’S GARDENING GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN The time of the falling leaf is with us. Leaves must be collected and not left so as to give the garden an untidy, littery appearance. Propagation by cuttings of Calceolarias, Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Violas, Iresine, Alternantheras should be handled at once. 2 In many districts frosts are quite possible this month and attention should be given to any tender plants that need protection. Planting of spring flowering bulbs should be hastened. This is probably the bes, time lor planting Tulips. 5 Autumn-sown annuals give best results. This is the best time to sow 1 them. The ground should be in good “heart" and should be firm. Some late herbaceous plants are still in flower, but the majority are over. Where the herbaceous border is to he overhauled this season now is the time to start. v Seed pods and dead flowers should be picked off. In many cases this will mean a few more autumn blooms. 1 Cut down plants that have finished. If annuals, pull them out. Borders would look much better if more attention were given to quick C removal of the “was beautiful." Michaelmas Daisies should have a few stakes and ties put to them. V. hy these autumn blooming subjects should so often be seen falling ‘ over the place is strange, because they are really worth attention. 1 ” c THE GREENHOUSE. 1 I E (.ive all ventilation possible. Guard against damp and overcrowding. i Remove decaying leaves or spent blooms. Water only in early morning, so that surplus water can evaporate before evening. Bulbs for early forcing should be potted. Those potted earlier, such ‘ as I ree/i. • and Lachrnaliax. will he showing itower spikes. Pelargonium* should be potted. These should be making good growths now. ; Pot or transplant seedlings of Cinerarias, Primulas, etc., as they re- j quire it. j THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. [ When possible cultivate between standing crops. Either a hoeing or i ‘ forking can be given. The latter is slower, but gives better results. [ j Sow vacant plot in a soiling crop. Clover, Lupins, Oats, or Rape may be used. Tomatoes left on plants should be taken oft as soon as they show colour. . if stood in a box in a warm place they will socn ripen. Root crops that have reached maturity may be lifted and stored. This 1 allows the ground to be prepared for next season. i Dwarf and Runner Bran should be gathered as soon as they are any ■ ‘ size. They get tough and stringy if ieft too long. Seedling crops, such as Turnips and Carrot, should be thinned as soon as ready. . . I Onion seed can be sown to provide plants for spring planting. Soil [ should oe firm. As Pumpkins attain a fair size and their skin hardens, they can he cut j and stored. Once the skin gets hard they do not develop any j turt her. THi: ORCHARD Tree dante.l a year or so back that have grown vigorously without j fruit car be lifted. After cutting some of the thick roots, replant them. The trees need not be actually lifted out of the ground. Dig out the | soil and cut the root, about eighteen inches from the stem; give them a lift upwards before replacing the soil. Pruning call he started on stone fruit, especially Peaches. Cut out all useless trees. There are plenty of good reliable varieties j without bothering with second-rate sorts.

BULBS IN MOSS FIBRE 1 Some years ago growing and flowerng of bulbs in undrained ornamental .ascs and bowls, using as a medium a uixture of peat moss, ground oyster shell and charcoal, was popular. Peat moss, so called, is obtained from the top layer of large bogs ol swamps in tne north of England thoroughly dried and packed in bales. It was used largely at one time as lorse bedding in place of straw. Peat moss is most absorbent. The late Robert Sydenham was largely responsible for popularising this method of bulb culture and used to exhibit large quantities of many different kinds of bulbs cultivated in this way. Preparation of the bulb’s fibre is not complicated, perhaps, but it needs care and is so dirty and dusty that gardeners contemplating using this method of bulb growing would be well advised to purchase it ready mixed. In any case the untreated moss fibre is available only in such large quantities that would be quite beyond the needs of any amateur and the best way is to buy your supplies ready mixed. Fibre May be Twice » sed. Actually, the fibre can be used the second time, if it is shaken free of the roots of the bulbs and then thoroughly dried and more ground shell and charcoal is added. The wonderful success which has been achieved in growing crocus, colchiumm, freezias, narcissi, tulips, ins, lily of the valley, liliums, begonias, and spiraeas and other bulbs in fibre m undrained earthenware and china vases has proved this method to be one of the most charming and effective for indoor decoration purposes, especially for those not fortunate enough to possess glasshouse or frames. The method is available to those who have to be content with the garden attached to the modern apartment house which is usually limited to a verandah or a windowsill. The advantage of this system is t hat the vases can be placed anywhere about the house, in the drawing or dining room, without fear of mess from water or soil coming through the base of the pots. The fibre is perfectly odourless and clean to handle, it is specially prepared for the purpose and is quite as effective as any of the fancy compositions .sold at much higher prices. Failures arc usually due to the fibre not being properly broken up, improperly mixed with the shell, no charcoal at the bottom, bulbs pottea too firm or being too dry or overwatered. Bear in mind that all plants and bulbs, to be a perfect success, must have constant care and attention. Correct preparation of the fibre is most important. It is necessary first to rub the dry inoss fibre until it is free of lumps, then.mix the shell with it. Add water, a little at a time, using at the rate of four quarts to each haif bushel of the moss fibre. If mixing is done properly the fibre will increase in bulk nearly one-third, and if taken in the hand and squeezed, little or no water should drop out. When potting, put a few pieces of charcoal in the bottom of the vase to absorb impurities and keep the mixture sweet. Then put in from lin to "in of the compost, according to the depth of the vase; place the bulbs gently on the fibre and fill up the vase to within lin of the rim. Secret of Bulb Potting. \V hen potting, bulbs are best put lin or 2in beneath the surface, and although it is desirable to see that the compost is placed well round the bulbs it is not desirable to press tightly. Otherwise the roots will not work freely in the fibre, and the bulbs will have a tendency to push themselves upwards, as is often the case with those potted too firmly. Once potted they will require little or no attention for the first two or three weeks, but on no account must the fibre get too dry or too wet. On the other hand, once allowed to

become dry, if only lor half an hour, | the pores of I he routs close up and the i bulb m many cases go ‘’blind" and are I ruined. This more frequently happens ; ’ with tulips and narcissi, tulip roots being finer and therefore more liable I to injury. PROPAGATE BUSH FRUITS i > Gooseberries, black, white and red i currants are easily propagated by I ’ means of cuttings inserted al the pre-.:- j ; ent time. Shoots of the past summers j i growth, ten to twelve inches long arc [ i chosen, and cut beneath a bud to form < ! the bases of the cuttings. On those of | j red and white currants and gooseberry : • all the buds except two or three of the [ [ uppermost are removed. But all the [ I buds are to be left on black currant [ ; cuttings. The reason for this is that i ' the black currant renews itself annu- ' ' ally by shoots which grow from the [ i base, insert the cuttings in a narrow [ j trench, making firm and covering j I quite half of each cutting with soil. | LAWN AERATION ■ Reference is made in nearly all articles on lawn management to the serious effect of excessive consolida- j tion of the turf surface upon the j growth of grass. Too much rolling is a . common cause of trouble in this direc- | tion, but hard wear on tennis courts j and other greens, upon which many i feet are constantly treading, is bound i by the end of the season, to com- j press the earth to the exclusion of air. j Perforation or piercing of the turf is i recommended for this condition. A ! garden fork may be used for smal. I i plots making holes about three inches | apart and three inches deep all over i | the lawn. These are left open for a ! I week or ten days, then filled in by i brushing sand into them. EARTHWORK CONTROL I A study of the use of lead arsenate j . for earthworm control in turf has been • ! in progress since 1929 at the St. Ives j i station of Greenkeeping Research. As ! a result of data published in 1935, the ' use is recommended of 2oz. of lead arsenate per square yard, preferably in March. Such a dressing lasts for . five years. Judging by the caste formai tion, a 90 to 95 per cent contrc; Is I obtainable. Since poor results nave [ been obtaint d in some cases, it is advised that small trials should be made under local conditions before Heating larger areas. COLLECT THE FALLEN ERL ITS There quite a lot of brown and black rot disease among apples ana even pears this autumn. Fruit is suffering from this trouble everywhere and home gardeners all too frequently turn a blind eye to the trouble. The '■ fruit is left to lie and rot. This, of course, is simply inviting trouble, as these withering mummies are focal points of further infection. Gather and destroy the affected fruit without delay. At the same time mark down those trees badly affected for treatment during the winter season. This treatment will consist of searching for and cutting out the cankers on the branches. Paint over the cuts afterwards with a paint of Bordeaux powder and raw linseed oil.