THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 80, Issue 300, 18 December 1937, Page 13

THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN Where possible apply a mulch to Dahlias and other plants to save watering. Stake and tie Gladioli. Remove dead flowers and old spikes as soon &s flowering is over. Dahlias and Chrysanthemums must be staked, if this is not already done. Roses will benefit from ample supplies of water and liquid manure. Spraying with arsenate of lead will be necessary to control caterpillar and grubs. Primrose and Polyanthus seed can be sown under shade. Lead arsenate powdtr (one part) and flowers of sulphur (ten parts) can be used as a dust. The use of non-poisonous derris powder instead of lead arsenate is optional. Chrysanthemums must be sprayed to control rust. Bordeaux, lime surphur or one of the forms of colloidal surphur can be used. Sow' biennials, such as Canterbury Bells, Sweet William, Aquilegias, Brompton and East Lothian Stocks. * Remove the seed pods from Rhododendrons, Azaleas. Give a spraying with white oil if there are any thrips or red spider present. THE GREENHOUSE. The benches and floors should be damped once or twice a day to keep the air moist. Watering should be done in the evening, but the plants should be looked over at midday to see if any require extra water. Early bulbs, such as Freesias or Lachenalias, can be prepared for potting. Cuttings of Coleus taken now will give nice plants for autumn. The potting or pricking out of Primulas, Cinerarias and Cyclamen should be undertaken as soon as required. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Pinch the leading shoots of Pumpkins, Marrows, etc. Tomatoes must have laterals removed. Keep the plants securely tied to stakes. Discontinue cutting Asparagus. Give the bed an application of nitrate of soda—one ounce to the square yard. Plant Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli and Savoys in the furrows between Potatoes. Further sowings of Dwarf Beans should be made. Keep Runner Beans closely gathered. If spider appears, spray at once. A spraying with clear water every evening will keep the plants clean. Cut Marrows as soon as they are large enough to boil whole. If mildew has been in evidence in _• revious years, spray now with lime sulphur or colloidal sulphur. Sow Lettuce, Raidish, Mustard and Cress. A little shade and plenty of manure and water will give best results. Sow Turnips, Beet Carrots, Silver Beet, Perpetual Spinach for use in autumn. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Stop and regulate vines’ growth. Under glass the bunches should be thinned. Thin out the weak growth of Logans and Raspberries. Once the crop is gathered, cut away the old canes and replace them by young ones.

Spray for codlin moth, also brow'n rot and mildew. Any heavy crops of fruit should be thinned. The ground beneath the trees should be kept loose and free of weed.

TOMATO TROUBLES CULTURAL ERRORS It would be wrong to say that ail tomato troubles are due to faulty cultural methods, but there are some which undoubtedly arise from that cause, especially where the plants are under glass. Scalded leaves are typical examples of suspected disease ■which are frequently sent for examijnation. Light patches show on the leaves where the tissues have been completely destroyed, and the effect is to prevent the foliage carrying out its normal function. Actually, scalding is caused by nothing more than the sun striking on foliage that is still wet with condensed moisture. JThe remedy, or rather, prevention, is quite simple. Make sure that ventilation is attended to before the sun has a chance to work havoc. With ventilation, condensation of moisture is prevented. The simplest way is to leave a little ventilation on all night. • The cladosporium, or leaf mould, is one of the commonest troubles and unless a free circulation of air is maintained it is always liable to make its appearance. Where the grower has over-estimated the capacity of his house and overcrowding is rife, trimming of the foliage will be necessary at an early age. While it is quite properly urged that healthy plants should not be denuded of part of their foliage while it is still able to perform its natural function, it is better that they should lose a little in this respect than be attacked by a disease which jnay blight the prospects of a season. Another common tomato trouble is Lhe blossom end rot and this should not make an appearance if the plants are grown under conditions entirely to their liking. Experience has proved that this disease is invariably the result of a check to growth, usually dryness at the root. It is sometimes diificult to convince growers of this fact, for as a rule it is about 25 to 30 days after the plants have been checked that the first signs of the typical bruised and water-soaked spots at the blossom end of the fruit appear. The fruit is of course rendered quite use-: less.

f ASTERS FOR ELEGANCE POPULAR SINGLE VARIETY The single asters, as grown to-day, are simply improved forms of Aster sinensis, the Chinese species from which the whole family has been evolved. There is, however, little resemblance between the two, as vast improvements have been made in the size and form of the Howers as well as the colour range. It is a matter of no little satisfaction, that far from detracting from the grace of the singles, the added size has increased the charms of the flowers, as efforts have been concentrated on retaining the ribbon like florets. Stems of 18 inches are not uncommon in some of the strains and, as cut flowers, they are unequalled. The newest development in this section is, of course, the Californian Sunshine Aster, which has attained a wonderful popularity. This is simply a single-lfowered aster with a central cushion of dish florets invariably in contrasting shades of white or cream. Growers who adhere slavishly to the accepted routine of sowing asters under K -lass and hardening Ihcm off before planting, should try sowing in the open ground where the plants are to bloom. The results obtained are in no way inferior to the accepted practice. Sow as thinly as possible and thin out the plants before they become crowded. The writer’s own plan is to drop a few seeds at every eight inches along a line, and, when the seedlings appear, thin out to one in each place. This method makes for greater economy of seed and consequently less waste in thinning out. The thinning out should not be neglected, for it is foliy to expect good flowers if the plants are left to fight for existence with each other. Asters are not particular as to soil, provided they are assured of a reasonable amount of nutriment. Starvation, or an over abundance of rich manure are both conditions which asters will not tolerate, and when sowing seeds at this late date, it is better to rely on liquid feeding rather than to over-1 manure the soil.

Excess of moisture at the roots is always to be avoided, but the fact that dryness is equally harmful will be demonstrated in no uncertain manner if the soil conditions produce such a check as to induce the appearance of blossom end rot. It is the really strong plants, growing with freedom, that are the most susceptible to :heck. The grower needs to strike ;he happy medium in his methods. HELPING GLADIOLI There may be a tendency this season on account of the ample moisture reserves in the soil, to regard hoeing as of less necessity than usual. But there is still urgent need for it. Ample though reserves may be, they will be dissipated in a remarkably short time if a hard crust, which encourages loss of moisture, is allowed to form. On very dry soils, a mulch may even be advisable. Nothing is more harmful to gladioli than dryness at the root. Checks of this nature arc always liable to result in premature flowering and such spikes are invariably short and ill-developed. Feeding is always a difficult matter with gladioli, and if a mulch of strong manure is put on, a great deal of nutriment is washed into the soil. For this reason the mulch is better to be of lawn cuttings or litter. It is inadvisable to attempt feeding of. *ny kind until such time as the spikes have formed. Applied too early, it is a frequent cause of gappy spikes. Even when it is permissible, care should be exercised as l the flowers are easily coarsened and the self-shades ruined. Very weak solutions of natural manures once a week are fairly safe. More than this may result in streaky flowers, and ii the soil was adequately enriched before planting, much feeding should be unnecessary.

GARDEN POOLS There is an objectionable green slime which covers the surface of some pools in hot, dry summers. This may be exterminated by dissolving four ounces of copper sulphate, or one ounce of permanganate of potash in two gallons of water, using an enamelled bucket. This quantity will treat 500 gallons of water. If the first application is unsuccessful, give : a second application in a week’s time. After pouring in the solution make sure that it is well distributed I through the water by swirling the contents of the pool with a broom. In imost cases this solution will do no harm to fish or plants at the strength recommended. CACTI CULTURE Many of our members who were present at the talk and demonstration given by Mr. Howard Edwards have asked for further particulars and information on the growing of cacti/ I have arranged with Mr. Howard Edwards to give us a series of short talks in this column and I know members will welcome this news. Although Mr. Edwards is a very busy man he has generously offered to give up some of his time and prepare these talks for our many members. I am sure you will all find them interesting, for besides agiving the culture requirements of the cacti, Sir. Edwards will give us a list of suitable varieties for amateurs to make a start with. Those of you who saw the display of cacti at our show will quickly realise that cacti growing would be an interesting hobby.

CARNATIONS AND GREENFLY The greenfly pest is apt to be iroublesome on carnations and more so on some varieties than an others, usually the fly is found on those plants which by reason of their position have not the maximum of light and air. Spray at once, when the insects are noted, with an approved insecticide, apply a powder by means of a bellows, or brush off. If removed by hand avoid crushing the insects on the bud, for the exuding fluid is injurious and discolouration, or even searing of the calyx, may result. The early morning or evening should be selected for the spraying, not during the heat of the day. An overhead spraying after the heat of the sun has passed is very refreshing and reviving but directly the buds start colouring all overhead watering should be discontinued. Even in these days it occasionally happens that a stem is not of adequate strength to support the Hower it carries and considerable thought needs to be given as to the best method of securing the bud to the stake. While it is radically wrong to tic a flower head right up to the calyx under normal circumstances, this is one of the methods employed. Another method is to allow the stem to bend over naturally, then place a notched cane, or even : two, so that the rests evenly on it, just by the calyx. This method will be found worth a trial for exhibition blooms.

CEASE CUTTING ASPARAGUS Those who are the fortunate possessors of an asparagus bed are tempted to continue cutting the young shoots. The actual date matters little but if the asparagus is still cut after the first week in December, next year’s crop will suffer. The plants should have a chance to grow so that i the roots may gain in strength and make satisfactory growth next spring. In dry weather the beds should have I a good soaking to encourage all the growth possible in the “grass.” ‘