ARTIFICIAL FIBRES

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 79, Issue 12, 15 January 1936, Page 11

ARTIFICIAL FIBRES

THEIR GROWING APPEAL CONFLICT WITH WOOL INDUSTRY. NEED FOR IMPROVING WOOL. (Specially written for 44 The Chronicle” by ‘ ‘ Merino. ’ Much has been written and more has been said lately about artificial wool and its effects when in competition with the genuine article. Some farmers’ organisations have probably been led astray as to the real danger that may lie behind the production of new artificial fibres. Two statements that are frequently made about the new fibres are that they are not as strong as wool and are more inflammable. The latter statement is more or less of a ” red herring,” and it must be remembered in connection with the former that the new artificial fibres are still in their infancy. The introduction of artificial silk or “ rayon” is not so far distant that many of the present generation do not remember what poor articles of clothing were manufactured from it. Today the position is entirely reversed and clothing made from artificial silk has good wearing qualities, at the price, and in certain respects has qualities which make it more desirable than woollen clothing. While the fair sex have been the chief users of this class of article it must be remembered that there are a large number of men who cannot wear wool next their skin because of its undesirable “tickling.” On account of the changes in eco-

nomic conditions and the general standard of living in the last few decades, it is difficult to estimate just what inroads artificial silk and its associated fibres have made on the consumption of raw wool. For example, take the case of ladies’ stockings and the linings of gentlemen’s coats. About thirty years ago nearly all the former articles were made from high-class wool, largely of the Merino type, while the linings of coats were made from high-class Lincoln wool. To-day, about 95 per cent, of the stockings are made from artificial silk, and it is difficult to get woollen material suitable for coat linings. The loss to the woollen industry of these two branches of the trade must mean many thousands of pounds and, in addition, it must be remembered they demand high-class wool. So far, the samples of cloth received from Germany, with the artificial wool in them, have only contained from 25 to 50 per cent, of artificial fibre. To the untrained person it is often a difficult matter to distinguish the fabrics containing the artificial fibres from those made of pure wool. In fact, when it comes to certain of the qualities of the cloth, for example, softness to handle, which is important in ladies’ clothes, the cloths with artificial fibres are superior to those made from the genuine article. Another point which must be remembered is that while wool is a pure protein material, i.c., it is similar to flesh, most of the artificial fibres made to date have been made from carbohydrates similar to starch in their make-up. Now, however, comes the news from Italy that they have succeeded in making an artificial fibre from milk casein, which is a protein material. This may sound good news to the dairy farmer, but it is probable that after much research the manufacturers may be able to produce from this by-product a superior artificial fibre which will come into even closer competition with wool. In countries like Germany and Italy, which do not normally produce nearly enough wool for local needs, the present strained economic conditions are bound to give an impetus to research work into the production of those new fibres. In the case of the milk casein fibres, however, there is the comparatively high initial cost of the raw product, which is likely to hinder the production of fibres made from it. Further work, however, may show that satisfactory fibres can be made by combining the cheap wood pulp with the casein. The above may sound rather pessimistic, but it is a true account of the position. This should awaken the woolgrower to the fact that if his product is to meet this competition it cannot remain in its present state, but must be improved. Some sheepmen are attempting to improve their.wool«by the use of the Benzol tost, in order to reduce hairiness. They must not forget, however. that at the same time they must improve their methods of general management. Good wool cannot be produced unless the sheep are kept in fairly even condition throughout the year, and this means better winter feeding than is the general case at present in New Zealand. There is, of course, another side to the story, and that is that artificial fibres are allowing the production of a greater variety of materials and effects by introducing some artificial fibres into woollen cloths. This means that it is possible to sell wool in a form which was not previously possible.