The Wanganui Chronicle MONDAY, JULY 1, 1935. WOOLSTRA

Wanganui Chronicle, 1 July 1935, Page 6

The Wanganui Chronicle MONDAY, JULY 1, 1935. WOOLSTRA

A VERY interesting survey of the intrusion of woolstra into the textile fabric world is given in the June issue of the Bank of New South Wales Circular, and those interested in the production and sale of wool should find this survey very enlightening. In the main, the opinion of the writer in the circular is the same as that which has been expressed in this column, namely, that the rayon or cellulose base fibres arc more the competitors of wool, cotton and silk and artificial silk, than of wool. ‘‘At present we cannot regard vistra as a substitute for wool. At most it can only replace a certain proportion of wool in a wide range of materials, making a given quantity of wool go farther, but in doing so reducing the quality of the cloth. Where the main properties of wool as essential, vistra can only be used in *small proportions,’’ is the conclusion expressed in the bank's circular. There are two terms which come into prominence at the moment—they are woolstra and vistra. “Woolstra is a woollen mixture material now being manufactured in Germany and consisting usually of 50 per cent, pure wool and 50 per cent, vistra.” “Vistra is a viscose (rayon) fibre made from tiie wood-pulp of uniformly matured pine and beech trees. The process of manufacture is a long one, involving various chemical, treatments. First the sawdust is pulped and cleansed. The resulting viscose liquid is forced through minute apertures in the special machine for this purpose, and after further cleansing and/or bleaching is hardened in a chemical bath. The finished fibre is then cut to required lengths, and made up into bundles similar to wool tops. It is understood that within limits, the thickness of vistra fibre can be varied at will, but the usual is liner than the fine Merino wool. . . . The fibres can be cut to any required lengtli-so as to be suitable for spinning with cotton, flax or various wools. “Vistra is closely related to rayon, and has been known for some years. It was evolved and submitted to test in 1920, being first used for mixed weaving in 1922-24. In 1925-26 the United States of America commenced using viscose rayon. In 1927-28 Germany started weaving vistra mixture materials, introducing the fibre into a larger range of fabrics in 1929. In 1932 it was used with flax, and in the same year the first Vistra Exhibition was hold in Berlin. In 1933 vistra was mixed with wool and the first woolstra cloths appeared. “Some idea of the range of these materials can be gained from the following which are on sale in Germany:—Women’s underwear, consisting of 25 per cent, vistra, 25 per cent, wool, 50 per cent, cotton; overcoats, etc., consisting of 40 per cent, vistra, 20 per cent, wool, 40 per cent, flax.” “The properties of vistra, however, are similar to those of cotton, with the result that woolstra materials do not afford as good protection against cold as do woollen goods. They lack elasticity and are inclined to crease. In addition they have a tendency to wear baggy, for which reason they are more suitable for women’s wear than for men’s suitings. As vistra fibre is heavier than wool fibre, woolstra cloth is weightier than woollen material giving the same warmth.” The present urge on the part of Germany to develop the use of vistra in conjunction with wool is, of course, the unsatisfactory condition of her trade balance, which compels her to restrict the importation of wool, among other materials. This restriction has resulted in Germany cutting down her woo] imports by about one-half. But it is unlikely that when Germany recovers to a more healthy economic condition her people will adhere to the use of an inferior fabric when they can afford a more desirable one. The foregoing is very reassuring, but it is nevertheless not all of the story. With every increase in the variety of fibres used in textile manufacture the demands of the manufacturer move to greater exactness. With every exact fibre of cellulose base the manufacturer is to be assisted with a greater regularity in the woollen fibres which he uses in connection with the former. Uniformity in the one fibre calls for uniformity in the other. The wool-grower should heed this tendency in demand and seek to provide a wool fibre as near to uniformity as it is possible to attain.