Gardening Notes

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 76, Issue 303, 23 December 1933, Page 13

Gardening Notes

1 <B

ALKANET).

WORK FOR THE WEEK

THE FLOWER GARDEN. Fick off spent blooms. Do not allow seed pods to form. Pull up any spent annuals. Plant Zinnias, Celoslas, Salpiglossis, Salvias. Sow Cosmos, Celosia, Portulacca, Night-scented Stock. Remove seed pods from Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Plant Dahlias. Any planted now will need watering till they start growing. Mulch Dahlias, Paeonies, Rhododendrons, Lilacs; in fact any shrubs are better for mulching in dry weather. Sow perennials and biennials—Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Hollyhocks, Delphiniums. Clip hedges and keep the lawn mown and tidy ready for the holiday season. Bulb lifting can be done now. Let the bulbs lie on the ground to dry, but not too long for the sun to scald them. Spray Roses for mildew. Dry dusting with sulphur every week will prove effective. Stake Chrysanthemums and Dahlias as they require it. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Prepare Celery trenches. Freshly planted Celery will need watering. It will also be necessary to »ha-e for a few days immediately after planting. If Onions show signs of mildew they should be sprayed at once Growing crops should be thinned out as soon as they are any size I c tera l g^ wths on Tomatoes. Spray and stake the plants. B s P™ uts > Broccoli, Cabbage, etc, for winter supplies can be planted Sow Dwarf Beans, Sweet Corn, Swedes. piantea. Stake the .“ g shoot of Pum P kin « and Vegetable Marrows, aiaxe and earth Peas. Another sowing can be made. oSd manure/ 1 * ln Shallow trenches an(l rec l llire Sow Lettuce and Radish to maintain supply of salads. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Thin Peaches, Nectarines and Plums ™ n XX CTOPB of fruit means that the fruit left is lmprovea “ -“-part is d TMn IXandX re6S: WS t 0 ‘

THE ONION FLY TROUBLESOME PEST. lhere are lew vegetable pests which so often cause trouole iu tu c average garden as the onion fly. Th e foliage of the unions attacked becomes limp and turns yellow, and the leaves finally he on the ground. The bulbs of the onions then become a rotting mass and are rendered quite useless. As many as JU ul the magguts which have caused these injuries may b e found in each onion. It is in the seedling stage, when the most serious damage takes place. The flies are aboui one-third of an inch in length. The general colour is greyish, the being covered with black bristles, and the single pair of wings has a yellowish tinge. It is in the pupae state that the winter is passed. The pupa e are oval, cylindrical in shape, and dark brown in colour, and are about the same length as the flies. The flies start to emerge in the beginning of October, and lay eggs on the neck of the onion plants in groups of five to -’O. Borne of the eggs are laid in cracks in the soil. The maggots hatch out and eat off the stems and penetrate the bulbs. By the end of December most of the maggots are fully fed. They are white and tapering, and are rather more than one-third of an inch in length. The maggots pupate in the soil. There are three or more generations of onion flies in the year, but the generations overlap considerably, so that all stages of the pest can be found at any time during sum-

The pest can be avoided to a large extent by suitable cultural measures. Applications of nitrate of soda or other quick-attacking nitrogenous fertiliser do much good by stimulating the crop and enabling the plants to "grow away” from the pest. Use nitrate of soda at the rate of half an ounce to one ounce per square yard. PARSLEY HINTS FOR CULTIVATION. Io many gardens the cultivation of parsley receives scant attention. It is sown wherever there happens to be room; the seedlings remain crowded together and as a result the leaves are small and the plants run to seed early. Although parsley cannot be said to be difficult of cultivation, it is an erratic plant; in some gardens it flourishes without any special attention, whil e in others failures are frequent despite unusual care. Those who have hitherto failed with parsley should try mixing leaf mould freely with th c soil before the seed is sown. This method has proved beneficial in many gardens. I’arsley likes friable soil, which has been broken into line particles, whether it be heavy or light the addition of leaf mould will be found an advantage. On very light land it is advisable to sow parsley in partial shade. Two sowings are sufficient for the average garden, one in October and the other in January. The latter sowing will provide winter supplies. As one of the most important details of the cultivation of parsley is to allow the plants plenty of room it is unwise to sow the seeds too thickly. The drills should be half an inch deep and at the final thinning the seedlings should be ! ‘>tt eight inches apart. Parsley seeds usually take a longer time to germmHc than most other vegetable seeds; I hey may not appear for from liv e to six weeks. If the weather is hot and dry after sowing, the soil should be moistened in the evening, and a light top-dress mg of leaf mould will be beneficial. During the winter, in cold districts subject to heavy frosts, parsley will need some protection if a constant supply is required. This can be provided by placing a frame over the plants, or by planting them at the foot of a wall or fence exposed to what sunshine is available. There are various strains or varieties of parsley available, but the variety known as extra curled is the most attractive; a few of the seedlings will, no doubt, revert tn the old original variety but thnsp can be pulled , nut.

CARE OF PLANTS • IN HOLIDAY PERIODS When you go lor a holiday, what happens to your favourite plants in pots—those which are in the room windows or greenhouse? If they arc not watered and no precautions taken to ensure their safety, they are likely to perish. Probably the best way to deal with them, unless they can be left ill the care of someone, who will water them periodically, is to remove the plants from the grecuhouse and rooms and set them iu a shady part of the garden, th e pots plunged to the rims in . soil. 11l such a position, if the soil is watered thoroughly before the owner leaves home, the plants are not likely to take much harm for two or three weeks. After the soil has been moistened thoroughly it is worth while taking the further precaution of covering the pots with lawn cuttings or leaf mould. The soil will then dry less rapidly. J All faded blooms should be gathered front plants in th 0 garden to prevent the formation of seed pods. It is a cooil plan to cut ail flowers and buds from sweet peas. The soil ought to be watered thoroughly and hoed next day. A plentiful supply of flowers should then be available on return from holidays, instead of a crop of seed pods, nose shoots that have flowered should be cut back to a strong bud. A fresh crop of flowers will then be assured. NEW RASPBERRIES - Raspberries of recent introduction are Pyne’s Royal, Red Cross and Norfolk Giant. Pyne’s Royal is now well known to many, but deserves the fullest recommendation as it is the largest-berried raspberry grown. Red Cross is an excellent cropper and the berries, which are sweeter than most others, ripen fairly early. Norfolk Giant is a very strong growers, making canes seven feet or mure iu height, it is a heavy bearer of medium size berries and is excellent for preserves. This is the best late ripening variety. Of yellow raspberries the noteworthy newcomers are: Lord Lambourne, Exeter yellow, and Yellowhammer. All are oi rich quality, good growers and heavy croppers. WISTARIA Among hardy, deciduous climbing plants, wistarias are the gayest ornaments of the garden and grounds. Planted to ramble wild over arches, pergolas, verandahs, etc., wistarias, with their long drooping racemes ol flowers, in various shades of lilac and purple, also the purest of whites, some being sweetly scented, produce a won derful profusion of lovely blossoms, proving the most attractive climbing plants in cultivation. Some of the flower spikes, notably those of the variety multijuga, are fully 2ft. in length. Specially trained and grown, (hey are adapted for tubs and pot culture. Unfortunately, the flowering period of wistarias is much too short. Still, when out of flower, the pretty foliage renders them attractive. By hard cutting back they may bo trained to grow in bush form.

NOTES ON ANNUALS USEFUL VARIETIES. »?uu.\ ilalm piovdjuucns ha-> never UCLii largciy o iunu; ns meiits uave not been xuuy leuognmed by tnosc wnu want dwari-iiauiLuu summer-oloumrng plants, it js a nt champion to tiiu luubclia ana Aiyssum, which arc .w mucii used lur cciging nuwui-ucus uii grass, it pruuuces its brigut orange jeiluw uiu&aums very frceiy and cunlinuously all tnrougu tnc summer unin Host comes. Illis is an exceilcnt plant lor window-boxes, and would be mucu used if better Known, it should be raised in heat in spring and well nar dened ull beiure planting out. This annual muse have an open place whcr c it gets plenty uf light ana an. Growing amoilg other mote robust plants it does nut display its true character. 1 huse who need a conslam supply of cut flowers during summer should not overlook the annual chrysantjicmums. There are flowers to cut in plenty, and they are easily placed. 1 hey need little nourishment and lung periods of dry weather do not destroy their blooming power. If used for decoration, flowers should be cut early in the morning. Flowers cut iu full sunshine do not last long. Seeds should nut be allowed to form, otherwise exhaustion and consequent flowerless condition quickly cumes. Annual chrysanthemums are good for growing among low-growing shrubs or similar places where the soil is poor and becomes very dry. Showy and Vigorous. Malope grandiflora is one of the most shown annuals, ft is of vigorous habit and must be allowed ample space for development; otherwise, the laigc, handsome flowers do not reach their full development and character. This annual has a line effect massed, and where there is room should be used in that way. beeds should be sown where’ the plants are to bloom. They come up readily and should be thinned to Din. apart. Malope does not need rich ground; it is liable to run too much io leaf iu such soil. Plenty of space, abundance of light, sun and air, and a moderate quantity of food is all that is necessary. Jacobeas should be grown by those whoso soils parch in summer. They lov e -tree exposure to sun and air, do not demand constant attention to watering, and require but little nourishment. They are, therefore, valuable to garden owners who cannot devote much time or afford to spend .much money on their gardens. Clarkias aie indispensable and so easily grown. Those who need largo supplies uf cut flowers should make a feature of this annual. Sown iu the open ground and well thinned out, they flower freely all summer. Godetias, tu be scon at their best, must have plenty of space —at least Din. between plants. They will then make strong stems, and produce largo, handsome blooms. There are now some very fin e double varieties. Selection and Cross-breeding. LschoHzius aie a striking instance of what selection and cross-breeding have affected in gulden flowers. A rather coarse yellow flower, which has nevei been held in high esteem, has given birth tu varieties which are as varied in colour as they are beautiful. A great point in favour of this annual is that it is not liable to attacks of insects or diseases of any kind. Moreover, it is so easily pleased in the matter uf soil, that it will grow and bloom freely where must summer flowering plants fail to show their true character. In gardens of considerable extent this annual will bo found useful, as it quickly covers the ground. A recent addition to th 0 annuals from South Africa is Usinia anthemoides, its orange daisy-like flowers with purple central zone, form a beautiful carpet of bloom on a •sunny border. Like all the Cape flowers, this annual must have a full measure of sunlight to attain perfection. Nemophela insignis is another annual of beautiful blue. Not so much grown as it should be. it is of the easiest culture, and can be sown either in spring or autumn. HYDRANGEAS RANGE OF VARIETIES. Hydrangeas have been improved tu a very great extent during recent years. The size uf the pips uf the modern varieties far eclipse those uf older ones. Hydrangeas vary considerably in different soils, depending uu the degree of acidity or iron salts present, rhe beautiful blues are the result oi these conditions prevailing in the soil, or from being artificially treated with the necessary elements. AU varieties du not behave alike under treatment. There arc very few varieties which arc blue naturally, or will remain so indefinitely. The pink varieties need time to help to retain their colour, but in spite of this some soils will i urn to blue every pink hydrangea that is planted. The blueing can be accomplished by treating with either a commercial blueing powder, or with sulphate of iron.

Copious supplies of water should be applied to hydrangeas when in full growth, and if large trusses of bloom are required an occasional watering with manure water will greatly improve the size. Hydrangeas make splendid tub plants if due attention is paid to watering and feeding, and care is taken to thoroughly ripen the wood after the flowering period is past by thinning the growths, and by pruning hard back in winter. Home of the best of the newer varieties of hydrangeas are Adelaide, a beautiful pink; Baroness Schroeder, a flesh-pink; Frey a, one of the best, dark glowing red; Odin, bright red; W. D. Cartwright, rich crimson, very large pips, and a good grower; Col. Durham, rich carmine; King George, deep rosy pink; and Sensation, a lovely pink. Among the older varieties the well-known I’arsival still holds pride of place. Others are; Gertrude Glahu, deep pink, and blues well with treatment; Rubis, deep red; Vicomte de Vibraye and Blue Prince, both good blues. Elmar and Lancelot are good

either as pinks or blues. Among the whites Aladame Moulliere, white with a faint blue eye, and Ncego Orleanaise arc two of the best. Any attempt to blue the white varieties will result in a washed-out mauve colour, not nearly so attractive as the snowy whiteness of their own particular shade. This list does not by any means exhaust the number of varieties available, but no one can say just how they will behave in any particular soil or locality until they have been planted and have flowered.

CHILDREN’S GARDENING CLUB Dear Happy Gardeners, — f know that all my little "merry band of gardeners’’ are very happy to-day for we all have that Christmas feeling—that feeling of goodwill and forgiveness. I often think Christmas gives to us a golden opportunity to do some kind little action that will help some, "poor fellow” along the rough and stony walk. It is surprising how happy you can be, if you just think how good God has been to you all. Do not count your happiness by the, presents that Father Christmas brings you or by the wonderful things you have on the table — tihe.re are far more wonderful gifts than all those. The love and attention your mother and father give you all through the year, that is wonderful, so even if you have not a penny to buy a gift for them give them a big kiss and say: "Thank you, dears, for all you have done for me this year.” I am sure this will make them both wonderfully happy and you will be fully forgiven for some of those naughty little, things you did during the year. Mother will quite forget that you broke one of her best cups or spoilt your now dross and dad will forgot you ran over his garden and broke his best plant when you were playing. 'talking of gardens, I wonder how many of my little friends are able to pick a few flowers from their own little

garden this Christmas. I am sure you all feel what a poor old world it would be without flowers and already many of you are able to visit your little garden plots and enjoy the beauty of flowers.

I often think of that little story about the sick child. Here it is: Just outside the window of a room wherein lay a little sick girl, grew side by side a large weed and a delicate little flower. The strong old weed said to the little flower: "What use are you in this world? Look how big and strong I am.” The poor little flower felt very downhearted for every day it could see the big w’ced getting bigger and stronger. It tried so hard to 8&ow its pretty head and it thought the big weed was right and that there was no use for a poor little flower. But one day the little sick girl noticed th\ taco of the pretty little flower and asked her mummy to bring it inside to her. When the little girl handled the flower, sihe said: "You beautiful little thing! How good God is to grow beautiful things like you." That night the little girl was taken to God and in her hand was clasped the beautiful little flower. And so the little flower died in luxury—the luxury of doing goocE So it is that every day flowers bring joy. There is always a welcome, always a sympathy. In your garden you will always find a home and a welcome because "Nature never did betray the heart that loved her, nor refused to smile upon the fond admirers of her beauty.’’ So. my dear happy gardeners, to you all I hope this Christmas will be one of happiness and if during the year your gardens have given you some little pleasure I trust and hope that you will just pass that happiness on. To you all I wish a very merry Christmas. — CARNATIC. UNCLE WAI, SENDS CHRISTMAS GREETINGS. Dear Little Gardeners, — As t<he old year is coming to a close and we are approaching the now one, I thought I would just drop a lino or two to wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy Now Year. This time last year many of you never thought, you would be having a little garden of your own and with the coming year you will be able to admire your own work and bo able to pick your own flowers for the Christmas decorations. I hope to meet many of you at our January sihow and to meet many new faces. I want you to make a special effort to see that it will be still better than the last one, which was indeed very fine. With such a lot of members now and with such a lot of gifts sent to you I feel sure, when you send your blooms in, we will be able to give the good people of Wanganui something to admire and talk about.—So till 1 sec many of you again I will say ‘ ( cheerio. ’ ’ UNCLE WAL. BILLETS REQUIRED. As many country children have expressed a wish to visit Wanganui on January 11, I would be glad to hear from any member in town who could ; billet, a country' member for two days. I feel sure that this appeal will meet with the wishes of our city friends and I hope that they will extend a welcome to our country members. Just drop me a line advising whether you prefer a girl or boy member. Please give our little country friends two days of pleasure. GLADIOLI NOTES. Gladioli at this time of the year require attention if good blooms are desired. They are now beginning to throw up th<* flowering spike and a helpful stake and a piece of string are needed to keep the spike straight. Tie the spike just below the first flower bud and later a tie can be placed about half-way up the flowering spike. First gently shift the flower and tic loosely. This will help to keep the spike nice and straight. If any flower is slightly misplaced and faces the wrong way, a little persuasion will soon bring it to its correct place. All the flowers of the spike should bo facing to the front. Often a spike is held up in the loaves, just look over the plants and see that the spikes are not held up. If they are just help the spike by parting the leaves. The rain of Monday and Tuesday has been a boon to the "glads” and if this is followed with a dressing of fertiliser or liquid manure the spike will be considerably improved. Always remember: "After hosing do some hoeing.” This means that the soil must be stirred with a. small fork to allow the air to enter the soil. BORDER CARNATIONS Even if blooms of border carnations are not required for any other purpose than house or garden decoration it is advisable to carry out a little disbudding so that the buds that are left may develop into fair sized flowers. Staking and tying should also be attended to in good time.