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Gardening Notes

(BY

ALKANET).

SOILS AND WINTER CROPS The winter is with us again and the problem of growing winter vegetables is to be considered. It is comparatively easy to have vegetables in the summer; it is the winter crops that need a lot of attention. Quite a Jot of people buy all their winter vegetables. This expense could be saved if a little time and trouble were taken. Some soils are, of course, unsuitable. Very heavy clay land will not grow early or winter vegetables, excepting cabbage and cauliflower, or brocoli, as the late cauliflower are called. These do best on this class of land, especially cauliflower. But for growing early lettuce, turnip, spring cabbage, spring onions and early carrots, drained peat is the best. It is warm and light and responds readily to cultivation. It will, however. soon fall flat if it is not given fertiliser in some form or other. If it is fed regularly and given a rest every three or four years, during which green manure crop should be planted and turned in as soon as ready, this kind of soil will give wonderful crops.

It must, however, be free from stagnant water as far as at least two feet under the surface. It will be noticed that this is the sort of soil that Chinese market gardeners prefer. It is often said that they are the only ones who ran grow vegetable crops really successfully. This is not so. Some of their methods are cumbersome and often out of date. Their success depends chiefly on the untiring attention bestowed upon their crops. Sandy land will also grow good winter greens and other vegetables, but it requires considerably more manure than peat. and. unlike the peat, is really profitable for winter crops only. During I the summer months, it should be used ' for the growing of green manuring crops. The only vegetables usually satisfactory in such land are early peas, lettuce, spinach, radishes, early beans and early potatoes. If, however, the land is situated along the coast whore the frost does not reach it. these vegetables may be grown nearly all the winter.

There is one thing that is frequently overlooked in the growing of winter greens. The soil must be stirred. Tn a small garden a rake or hoe may be used. In a large garden, a horse-drawn implement is quicker. Weeds must not be allowed to cover the ground. The soil must be kept quite clean and sweet. If the weeds are not allowed to get any size, the continual stirring of the soil will keep them under.

On heavy clay land, where the rake or scarifier will not kill the weeds, a light plough should be used. Set it very shallow so as to turn about two inches of soil in towards the middle of the rows. This will cover the weeds and will kill most of them. If the operation has to be repeated, the soil should be turned back against the rows. This work should not be done while the soil is very wet. There are usually dry spells in winter. One of these should be taken advantage of. The proper time to do it is when the soil will slip away from the tools as easily as it does in spring. This method of weed killing will uncover a large number of slugs and if they have no shelter the frost will son kill them.

It is very noticeable in large areas planted with cauliflower and winter cabbage. if cultivated as above, that they will come into heart much quicker, and for cauliflower this often means a con siderable difference in the price they bring in the market. Manuring in the' winter is not advisable. This should be done in autumn or summer, before they are planted. KITCHEN GARDEN Onions should now begin to come up. Keep them quite free from weeds. Peas mav be sown in very favourable localities. Broad beans should be sown. They will grow anywhere. Onions may be sown for spring use or for transplanting for early bulbs. Cabbage may be planted, but the soil must be warm and well manured. If the birds are troublesome, plant the cabbage out in a small bed, allowing three inches between each plant, and cover them so the birds cannot reach them. When they have got a good start, lift each plant with a trowel and plant out in their proper places. Cauliflower treated in the same way will do better than if planted out. To facilitate moving them, see that the top root is not too long. If it is more than two inches, it should be shortened. A better plant, will be the result. All root crops may now be lifted and “helled in” in a convenient corner, ready for use.

Stored onions should be looked over for damaged bulbs. Potatoes, if not in pits, should bo turned often, if possible. All empty spaces in the garden should be turned over to allow the weather to get at the soil. THE FLOWER GARDEN In the ornamental garden, the chrysanthemums arc either at or just past their best. All indifferent varieties should be marked for destruction. Dahlias should be lifted and stored in their winter quarters. The absence of frost has resulted in a large number of late blooms. Phlox Drummondi should be removed when dead. The perennial phlox should have the dead tops taken off them. The spent blooms of the Michaelmas daisy should be removed. Carnations should be planted. Roses may be planted any time now. This is the best time to plant evergreen shrubs in light land. Anemones and ranunculus should be planted without delay. Where they are already up, use the hoe frequently and keep the roots free from weeds. If the lawn has developed weak spots during summer, preparations should be made to top-dress it. The best time for this work is when the growth of the grass is at its lowest. Keep the bulbs through the ground by forking the soil around them slightly. The pruning of the lasiandas may be done as soon as the blooms have dropped. Plant nemesias for winter and spring flowering. Iceland poppies, pansies, and violas, should be planted out now. If old blocks of coreopsis grandiflora are in hand, this is the time for lifting, dividing, and replanting. Gallordia grandiflora is a perennial, but it is generally treated as an annual. There are a number of named varieties of these and the only way to perpetuate them is from suckers. They do not come true from seed. Some varieties “sucker” better than others. This is the best time for dividing and replant-

ing. Cuttings may be taken of Salvia : “bonfire,” as well as of other salvias,, A frame outside, or a place in the glass j house is best for these. Cuttings of evergreen shrubs may | now be made and planted. Cuttings of pinks and carnations should be made and planted. Do not put them to too moist a position. Rose cuttings may be planted now. Cinerarias may be planted if there are overhanging trees to protect them , from the frost. If they are to be out in the open, it would be. advisable to leave them until later. Protect newly planted passion fruit if a frost is expected. All erixas may be transplanted now. The Japanese Iris should have their tops cut off, or they will look very untidy. Among the plants that bloom during the winter, the leculia is one of tho most noticeable. A little protection from the morning sun after a frosty night will save the blooms from being discoloured. The digging up of borders and beds should be delayed until all the deciduous trees have dropped their foliage, so as to present them from making the garden look untidy after it has been dug. Russian Sage.—This autumn or winter flowering plant is an acquisition to any garden if a suitable position is available. It does not like the frost touching its blooms, but otherwise it is quite hardy. It is one of the few plants that do not like being disturbed. If left to itself, it will grow into a fairsized plant and will last in bloom for a month or so. It does not last too well cut. but in the garden it is very showy. Its blooms are of a very pleasing shade of purple. The Valotto lily has not bloomed this year as well as usual. This is no doubt due to the wet spring not allowing the bulbs to ripen. It always does best after a dry summer. Tt should lie left undisturbed, as transplanting does not induce them to bloom, rather the reverse. THE ORCHARD Tn the orchard, the, fruit is off the trees and the land should be turned over to allow the weather to mellow the soil. Pruning may be done any time now. bnt. it is not necessary before the end ef July. Kasnlf rry beds should be cleaned up, surplus plants dug up and new beds planted. Gooseberry and currant bushes nhould have the soil around them dug. New bushes can be planted any time now. Rhubarb should bp lifted and replanted. New beds can be made ready. Fruit trees can be planted any time. On light land it is advisable to plant ! early. Shelter belts should be tri mined and cleaned. Preparations for new planting should be made. On light land, autumn planting is perferable. Manure crops planted in midsummer should be turned in now.

Labour Lost. Mother (after reading telegram): “So yOur Aunt Jane won’t be able to come, after all, Tommy.’’ “800-hoo-hoo— ’’ began Tommy. ‘‘Why. what’s the matter? I didn’t know you were so fond of Aunt Jane as all that.” “I’m not: but here I’ve had to have my face washed ami my hair brushed —till for nothing!”

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WC19270514.2.79.13.3

Bibliographic details

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 19840, 14 May 1927, Page 16 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,651

Gardening Notes Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 19840, 14 May 1927, Page 16 (Supplement)

Gardening Notes Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 19840, 14 May 1927, Page 16 (Supplement)

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