A CRUISE THROUGH NORTHERN SEAS.

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume L, Issue 12145, 12 March 1908, Page 7

A CRUISE THROUGH NORTHERN SEAS.

LEAVES FROM THE DIARY OF 4 NGAPUHITE.

(Conoliide:l). February 18th.—Another «i hou* morning finds us anchored off tlie Bay of Islands for sehnapper fishing-. After some excellent sport we up anchor and head for Russell. There it lies a quaint little town nestling under tho ■nills m peaceful quietude as if its rest were won. It speaks to us of a time that is past, of a'time when this land oi ours was .but in the making, and with eager steps ive set out to explore its yionity under the excellent guidance or Mr. Williams, the Northern Coy's agent. Wo visit the oldest church in New Zealand and note the bulkt holes in tho walls; ue ti.y to decipher tho inscriptions on the moulding crave stones; wo climb to Flagstaff Hi 1, Itself an historic locality, and view from afar the points of interest clotted about tho numerous bays and islets that lie beneath us. After lunch a steam launch conveys us across tho harbour to Pahin, where wo sco rainy relics of the early £ ys-, 0 g^nor in a little Maori church, whore stand- New Zealand's oldest organ; seventy or eighty vea.s old, and tho "Spirit of tho Past" is upon us as we sing to its accompaniment that old, old hymn '0 God our ■help in a^os wast, our strength in 'years to come." Then Wows the hymn for those at sea, after which our guide conducts us round the beach to see tho Obe.isk airl Hal] ereeied by tho Maoris to eommemorato the signing of the Treaty a'} Waitangi. From"" there, wo return to the ship and brine to a close another mesfc enjoyable and intei-rslinc r. ' ", concert and dance in ihn

J^fch.— TJayJio-ht find., us oil ou. .-j, tc "TI aKii.v; an 1 w^ ris^ early lo se^ the fi .1 Leauli - -f this wondcr!i;> ha^-bonr. A mkt' mi i jid^s a p-loomy orrandonr to the hills and ven- [ ors even lr re grotescrie their en-lour limestone formation. Wo mmc slomlv v.) to Wha-i^aroa and there m-ike fast to a ricketty whan" near the township i o J s towers tho great lock dome of fc>t. Paul s, a ffoal for nimblo feet on the morrow. Bnggio? an.l saddle Jiorscs aro in readiness for our trip to the kauri forest, and we make an imposing caravan as we wind alon<* the picturesque shores of the harbour under Great overhanging pohutnkauas. tlirou^li long reaches of manaroves. ov cast banks covered with luscious bls^kbarnes. Arriving at a wayside cotta^o buried deep in orchard and garden, wlntc-ooated stewards brine out pvo:\< traya and baskets of' apples, peara poacJies, and plums, all in V>c highest bloom of pj-rPect'on. The white coats flitting from gj-oup to group, the cluster pi horses and1 riders, tl>o stately weeping willows and the cottage with its sunflowers and dahlias in the background combine to mako a perfect picture of 'Arcadian bliss. Stratinjr off again, the forest is soon readied ar-d luncheon is spread for us in a great.1 rock,r hcl'ow arched' over with graceful native trees and girt about- with a prolusion of nikau palms and ferns Alter a sumptuous meal, we climb the steep hillside above us and watch tho great kauri logs tsboegan down the dilute mto the valley below. Then climbing higher, we pass through a ions avenue fl f great nikau palms to -where :i" giant kauri, straight and tall, ctands readv.scarfedl and1 sawn. There ho has stood? m his majesty for perhaps thr<& long centuries and nrw he is to bo butchero-1 to make a Roman holiday " Boot no one shed a tear as the ued^ebite mto the trunk and he slowly totters, reels and falls to earth With a neaci'long crash! Most fay "What v\\ lmpcsiug sight!'' but to me theiv is a /"train of sadness in sucl) a scene. We return to cur'camping ground once more, and after further refreshment ~,lo'iraey back to -Wlhar^aroa completely satisfied wjth_ our dayjs outing. In the jrevenino;.^ f ,¥rolicalon<rtho beach, a lock- . up m tlr^Vhangaroi gaol, wHch stands •c^pen to allcomers, an impromptu coni^H 011,* I''6 whnrF 4;^!ls.4iifiUlie-cn» of rtanofeher; day's enjoyment.->-:"Before 'reWinw eight yoimg people plan to thft sun fro mtlje,summit of St. Paul's February 20bh.'—Having mustered on'full number on deck in the cold <n-ev morning light we set foitli ,_on mix climb. 'As we mount tho steep, hillsidea, glorious view cpens out before us, but Me are to,'sec? no sunrise, fcr the ram clouds >akc gathering fast. ' "i'lie , ram does not daunt us, and we scalo to the very summit of the rock and from them kok forth over a great ex--1 pans 3of deep, dark waters, great lime- , stone crags, long fertile valleys and | rolling bush lands. Tho sun* in its I strugGle wit'n thp storm throws fliclcering lights over the. plooiiny grandeur of tho scene, and a final touch to the pageant casts across it a gorgeous rainbow. Well satisfied that we have not climbed in vain, we seek the steamer once more and after breakfast m-eparo for « launch picnic down the harbour to the Mushroom Rocks. The weather having cleared, we spend a jolly time there, scrambling about the curious rocks and gaining by means of tho launch a closer acquaintance with the .vreirJ limestone figures that abound in I the neighbouring bays. Some of us | have the pleasure of returning to the I steamer in a stately yacht, a'welcome i change from th.3 snorting launch. In the evening a large progressive euchre party in tne saloon brings the day to a cJose.

■. February 21st.-We leave Whangaroa ■in the early hours of the morning, and dawii finds us entering Mangrfnui Harbour under a. leaden sky.- There are * tew .showers of rain, but by the time we leave on our first drive to'the Doubtless Bay cable station, the weather is fane and everybody.in the best of spirits. Various vehicles are gathered1 together tor our conveyance, and we form a very motley procession as we wind tin liiil and down dale, over the rough road that leads to the bay. It is a case of hold on all round, and the- the wild antics of some of the vehicles cause, considerable excitement. However we arrive without mishap at the cable station, and are accorded the warmest of welcomes by the officer-in-charge and his staff. We spend a most interesting time examining the wonderfully ilelZ cate instruments as they mark the heart beat of the world that throbs along tins sunken wire. Mingled with the news of this work-a-day world, what tokens of human joys, and sorrows must pass under the nimble fingers of the operators! The ladies at the station provide us with delicious mcrninptea,, at which we are not the only guests. Our hest se:ids out an invitation to the seagulls, and at his call th&ro is .a flash of white Avines all alo.nothn bay and in a trice he'is scavcelv visible amid the birds that crowd around him', eajr&r f or the scraps that he holds m his hand. It is a pretty si°-ht and shows clearly the power of kindness. When, the time comes for our return to the steamer, we carry awiv vevy cordial foelinqs in onr 'heaits for those w? leave behind us in t*e lonely bay. Tv the afternoon w© hold" a small reeatta m which, the )->^ifs are the foremost comretitors. Many exciting events are r-wpd of, and' the time passes very £l«isantly for rowers and onlookers. Six o'clock comes, and we start on O nr .fonrney lia-ok to Auckland. o'ifeide tlvo fitrance "the southwest wiivl roprs in the rrloamin<r']ike an ocean of seethinc champagne,*' and onr nlans ifor a lash jolly evening on deck beina- ■spoiled hv the boisterous elements, we' retire early to bunk—somo to sleep and some, alas, to srroan as the good ship pitches into the head sea.

February 22nd._The morning dav/r.3 bright and calm, and. we sigh at thr thought that this is our last day. We are approaching tho landing place at tne beautiful island ol Kawau, once th> home of Sir George Grey. The whori -lies i-i. a c':arming little bay, brilliantly blue and! wootba to tho water's e.'ge, an:l dotted with numerous yac'.ti -u\ '< fishing boats that add life to* the p?nci--" ful scene. Having breakfasted, we .sub out in small parties to. explore the island which, though new somewhat ne■gl'&cited, still has some very pretty sights, and1 we spend a pleasant moi'iiing roaming about the hi Is and ho - lows. Wo pay a visit to the late S ;• George Grey's horn?; and: against Its ivy grown wall our little party pniip* itself for a photograph that will perpetuate our goodly ■fe!':oivship that i§ s > soon to b& ruthlessly broken. At no >:i we gather on board f<>- tho presentation of tie regatta troph'es—and" handsome ones they are. Then, at ki'fpast one we sail for Yvahrera, the i s<visit of our trip. Ah Wo.iwera occurs^ the fi'\vt hr ale in our 1 ttk ci.vole. Three of o.ir number remain thciv—three fol•orn figures tliat wave a regretful farewell to us from the pier as, with dipping ensign, we-up anchor and start tor Auckland. As our journey nears its end! a feeling of sadness comes over our havny company at the thought that before long it? memJrers will ba scattering far and wide. When, we think of all tho g-.od "times we have had' tcgetler we tnrn in gratitude^to Captain Stevenson who, by his quiet tho-ught-fulness and genial courtesy, has won the hearts of ?11 on baard, and to his officers and ship's company, who. have clone all. ii^'their powor to make the trip a gi-rn:l success. Th-cs-e that eio'ht days ago were complete strangers now feel like- fj-ien,--?s of a W-etime, and with many a warm hand-shake, many an expression, of quiet appreciation, "many a i hope of .meeting aoftin, each take.'? leave ! or the othev. As I stand wat:hino- I! ■thmk'.cf chose words of the-poet:— j "We had been gathered from cot and !

grange. ■•'■•', Pr-om the moorland farm and the terrac«l stree'i. Brought together by chanres strano e And,knit together by friendship, sweet. Aot in the sunshine, not in the rain. Not m the.night oP the stars ntold," Shall M-e ever all meet again, Or be as we were in the"days of old. But as ship.3 across and in-Sre cheerily

-.go . ,- Having changed tidings upon flic sea, So I am richer by them, I know, And -they are not poorer, I.trust. ]>y me." : . ■ ••

_ The plaintive strains of "Aulcl Lana; Syne" rise on the evening air as the ".NWpuhi draws' slowly t» her bertu. Then with, a rattle the gangway comes on board and the. sono- ceases to give place to more nnmd:mo thoushts of ca.bs ( and! baggage. Queen Street with, its Saturday n,i?.lit cr-owd breaks harshly upon ns. ani we feel :«s a playjroe^ does_ when hp ■nassc^ O nt from '.%■ priand •scenio opara into tho cold reality of thastreets aq;ain. Tlie most glorious uf ■holidays, has com* to a closs'. and its closing is fraught not only with a sweet- sadness, but with a wealth cf memories tlwt will last for many a -day. Tb^mo-Tow 7 «]iarl be.'siWediiiir southwards in. ilip .R-arawa 'back to tha diitie«. of a. v.-oik-dnv world, a 'healthio- anil: a wealthier ma a for having: songht and' found tho.Hanpy-Isles. '"'