WOMAN'S PAGE.

Waipawa Mail, Volume LXVI, Issue 140, 22 August 1938, Page 4

WOMAN'S PAGE.

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LONDON GOSSIP. ROYAL COURT IN MOURNING. SHORN OF GLORY. LONDON, July 16. The last two Royal Courts of the season were shorn of some of their glory by the absence, first, of the j Queen, who is in mourning for her mother, and then the King, who is j indisposed. The Queen’s influence i on dress was noticeable in the number j of pastel-colored dresses that were | worn. The few dark or vivid dresses were almost startling among a mass of white and the delicate shades she favors. This year's debutantes have had a thrilling season, as apparently a record number of original parties have been given for them, and Ascot was so gloriously fine that the whole week was like one long party. However, they are not all butterflies. Many girls to-day have serious occupations as well as being expert sportswomen. One presented at last week’s Court rides and swims and fences and intends to make interior decoration her career. Another, still in her ’teens, is a serious sculptor, and a great many girls give their time to social service work. New Ways With Lace. The lace vogue has increased as the season advanced, and resourceful dressmakers are constantly finding new ways of making lace smart looking as well as elegant. The all-lace gwvn, the lace blouse, and the odd jacket of lace are old favorites. But the way designers are using insertions, wide and narrow, also applique flower designs and narrow edgings, is distinctly new. White stiffened chiffon formed the background of a full-skirted evening gown. Over this was lace insertion in black and Chantilly lace li inches wide to give the effect of a bold checked design. Another white frock bad * ‘ true-lover ’ ’ knots made of gathered edging of fine midnight blue lace. These were flung over the frock, making a dainty pattern. A bolero suit made of white flamisol worn over a black lace blouse, and the bolero edged all the way round with appliqued fine black lace in oak-leaf pattern was exceedingly smart. Blouses have lace edging and insertions, but original ideas for trimming are the things to strive for, so that the trim lines are broken by fuss. The Criss-Cross Bodice. There is a strongly-revived interest in the bodice that introduces crisscross designs. These are usually associated with a V neckline, but can be super-imposed on a plain dress with a high line. Many of these designs suggest good renovation ideas, as very often the criss-cross is emphasised by using a different color or material. From yokes, side seams of bodices, from neckline with winding girdles, these fabric manipulations mould the bust-line and often supply the sash. But in spite of a suggestion of elaborate detail, the slim silhouette is retained to give the air of youthful simplicity. Bead Embroidery. At first the mention of bead embroidery sounds stuffy and; mid-Vic-torian. But, like other revivals from an earlier period of dress, the new bead embroidery gives a definite touch of smartness. Recently I saw a delightful little frock made of soft black woollen, the bodice being embroidered from the shoulder and tapering down each side of the front with gold heads worked in a trellis design, the turn-down collar and tie being piped with gold. A stitched belt at the natural waistline above a skirt that had slightly flared hem. A shaped belt, almost like a small corset, beaded all over in some effective color, is another modern way of introducing this style of trimming. Small collar and turn-hack cuffs covered with gold or silver beading added to plain dark frock gives. a youthful touch of brilliance and looks well with long and short sleeves. Distinctive touches appeal to most women —something that lifts a frock out of the ordinary. By studying smart details and applying to one’s own wardrobe this is easily achieved, if care is taken to choose becoming contrasts of material or color. These are busy days for brides, and retinues have varied from fifteen attendants to none at all. One bride who dispensed with attendants described the custom as barbaric! Picturesque styles of the moment are ideal for both the bride and her maids, but care should be taken not

to overload the head-dresses with too much veiling. Very unusual but deliciously freshlooking were white gowns with long green chiffon sashes knotted with ends to the hem of the dresses and bouquets of green leaves—such a change from the usual floral arrangement. Hats worn at an exaggerated angle should be avoided. One in a crowd may pass, but when one sees half a dozen clustered together, they look ridiculous. Bridal gowns should always have a touch of dignity even for the most youthful bride. It is her great day and her dress should reflect its importance. FACTS ABOUT SHOES. MORE THAN 'ACCESSORIES. At one time we had about three kinds of shoes, indoors, walking, and evening, comments a writer in the “Cape Times.” They were usually bought rather haphazardly with not a great deal of attention to detail. But now we have become extremely foot conscious. We realise how much depends on the cut of a shoe. Correct poise and carriage depend almost entirely on suitable shoes. AYomen will continue to wear shoes with heels too high, but they are almost forced to do this if they want to be fashionable. It is possible, however, to wear an easy sandal in the house of the low-heeled, open variety. Gone are the days, though, when women willingly cramped their feet. They demand better comfort, and shoemakers have been forced to study foot anatomy. Lasts are made on the outline of a footprint, with a straight line running from the inner side of the heel to the toe—which is not now twisted into a point at an angle from the joint—and the line of the curving arch accentuated. In addition, shoes are made in various fittings and shoe design shows beauty, color, and quality. SANDALS. Sandals that are still being worn in the evening have also created a desire for foot beauty. No longer is the modem woman disinclined to show' her toes. She feels, now that she has been wearing the correct footwear that they are well worth seeing. And she is generally right. Shoes are no longer regarded as mere accessories. Often by their color and design they give the final touch of smartness to an ensemble. Constantly changing fashions make them almost as important as hats. Often people say that their feet are their real beauty problem. There is no doubt that tired or aching feet etch those tired lines down the sides of the mouth, so perhaps a little advice regarding feet may not be out of place. If they are aching badly massage them gently but thoroughly with firm kneading movements, working the toe joints with the fingers, and giving the instep arch a good “uplift” massage. FAVORITES IN SAVOURIES. Savoury dishes, both hot and afford ample choice, as well as an immense scope for effective designs, so that, no matter what season of the year, there should be no difficulty in finding a good number to select from ■when compiling a menu. Savouries, both hot and cold, are always popular. During recent years their popularity has considerably increased, with the result that a great number of savoury dishes are being constantly introduced. There are a number of articles preserved in pots and bottles, such as savoury fish and meat preparations that are ready for immediate use after being slightly heated and dressed on a eroute canape, or rounds of toast, and in this way can be converted into dainty savouries. All preparations intended to be served as savouries must be made up in small or individual portions. CHEESE FRITTERS. One egg well beaten with pepper and salt and a little milk. Grate three ounces of cheese, add the mixture to it, with a piece of butter and a little more milk. AVell butter some pate pans, put in the mixture, and bake in an oven about 15 minutes. They should lie slightly brown on the top; this makes five fritters. OEUFS AU GRATIN. Cut six hard-boiled eggs in slices, and arrange them in layers in a wellbutterod fireproof dish. Season each layer and dust over it a thin coating of grated cheese. Then moisten well with white sauce. AVhen the dish is filled shake grated cheese over the whole surface, moistening it with ANOTHER EGG SAVOURY. JYy a sliced onion in an ounce of butter till it is cooked, but not melted butter. Heat thoroughly and brown the surface.

browned. Add a teaspoonful of flour, and whisk them well together, adding as much cream as will make it a thick batter. Put this mixture into a basin, and break three eggs in singly, using only the yolks. AVork into the batter, adding a little salt. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff sauce, and stir gently in. Place this mixture in a mould lined with buttered paper. Bake for three-quarters of an hour, and pour white sauce over them ready to serve. OEUFS A LA NORMANDE. AYhen quite cold cut up six hardboiled eggs, turn out the yolks, mix with finely-chopped truffles, and then put the mixture into the whites. Serve in mayonnaise sauce, to which has been added chopped truffles. A plainer variation of this dish can be made with the yolks being mixed with a paste of pickled shrimps, instead of truffles, and garnished with young lettuce leaves. GEUFS SAUCE BECHAMEL. Hard-boil four eggs, separate the yolks from the white, and put the yolks into a mortar, with one rawyolk and an ounce and a half of butter. AVork well together. Cut the whites into strips, and put them into half a pint of Bechamel sauce. Serve hot op a dish, with the yolks rubbed through a coarse sieve, and shaken over them. Garnish with croutons and brown the top. This white sauee can be used as the foundation of many egg dishes. It can be varied almost infinitum, with herbs, anchovies or mushrooms. SHRIMP EN CASSEROLE. One tin of potted shrimps, one and a half cups of white sauce, one green pepper, diced, half a cup of grated cheese, half a cup buttered breadcrumbs. Drain the potted shrimps, and put in the bottom of a shallow casserole. Mix the hot white sauce, peeper and cheese, and pour over the shrimp paste. Cover with the breadcrumbs, and put in the oven until the crumbs are brown. Serve at once.