HOW TO DO IT.

Waipawa Mail, Volume XXXVII, Issue 8417, 10 December 1920, Page 2 (Supplement)

HOW TO DO IT.

THINGS YOU MAY LUKE TO KNOW TO ENAMEL FURNITURE. The question of enamelling white•\vood furniture to produce a pleasing and decorative finish does not appear to have aroused enthusiasm among amateur wood-workers. To the uninitiated the fact of its being cheap in production seems to spell nastiness or a make-believe, and only by those who have attempted—and successfully so—to decorate articles made of ordinary whitewood in various coloured enamels can the possibilities be imagined. Many amateurs are compelled to adopt the cheapest mode of producing a result, be it simple bracket or a bedroom suite, and it is to such readers that the following lines are addressed. The latter articles, if made of tasteful design and enamelled properly, give a charming daintiness to a bedroom, which the surroundings can be made to improve. It is always best to consider the finish of the article before settling on the making, as it is clear that an over-ornamented article, profuse with carvings, is quite unsuitable for enamelling. Simple outlines, gracefully proportioned, are the keynote of this successful finish, and from time to time such designs have oeen given in these columns. In the construction of these articles whitewood or good pine should be chosen, and all joints and fitments should be given the same care as if a plain, uncovered finish were intended. An absolutely perfect foundation is required if the surface is to look decorative, as either an inferior base or badly-applied enamel will produce a distasteful result. The article should have a careful glass-papering to produce a perfect base, starting with a coarse paper and finishing with the finest. Should any filling be required add a little glue to some fine wood dust and completely fill the hole or crack, then paper down to a level surface relatively to the surrounding wood. Next give a coat of thin size; this acts as a pore-filler, thus preventing waste of enamel. When it is dry a coat of white paint is put on. It is not advisable to use white lead, as this does not give such fine results as when zinc white is employed. This latter has several advantages over the former, the chief of which is its colour, although it is not so good in covering power. After this is dry it is carefully rubbed down with pumice-stone so as to render it quite Smooth and flat. Another coat is then given and likewise rubbed down to produce a flat result, after which one or two coats of good enamel should produce a beautiful lustre. The best brand of enamels only should be procured, vi.z. those closely allied to spiritvarnish. Then set slowly, flow like carriage-varnish, and dry in about the same time, although surpassing it in hardness, toughness, and durability, but in order to secure these effects as they must be put on a flat white surface. A good enamel is made of finelycrushed flaked white mixed with transparent polish and stained, but much experience is necessary to manage this successfully, and it is far better to buy a good brand. One coat of enamel over two of white paint produces a better result than three coats of enamel, which is a point for amateurs to note. They often think that another coat of enamel will make up for a badly-ap-plied coat, but this is not so. TO MAKE LIME WASH. (1) Put 61b. lime in bucket; soft soap lilb.; cover the whole of it with water; when slaked add ioz. blue black or loz. lime blue. Mix well together with stick; thin down for use with water. It can be applied indoors or out. When dry, water will not affect it in the least. (2) Lime, half a bushel; salt, 1 peck, rice. 31b.; whiting, l lb.; glue, 1 lb.; hot water, 5 gallons. Boil to a thin paste. Should be put on hot. Will last on brick or stone 20 to 30 years. (3) Slake the limt in boiling water, and to three gallons ordinary whitewash add 1 pint molasses and 1 pint table salt. Stir the mixture frequently while putting it on. Two "thin coats are sulficient. Alum is one of the best additions to make whitewash of lime, which will not rub off. When powdered chalk is used, gluewater is also good, but would not do for outside work exposed to much rain. The following has been found to answer on wood, brick, and stone nearly as well as oil paint, and is much cheaper Slake half bushel lime with boiling water, keep it covered during the process. Strain it, and add a peck of salt, dissolved in warm water, 31b. ground rice put in boiling water and boiled to a thin paste, £lb. powered Spanish whiting, and lib. of clear glue dissolved in warm water. Mix these well together, and let the mixture stand for several days. Keep the wash thus prepared in a kettle or portable furnace, and when used put it on as hot as possible, with paint or whisewash brushes.

TO CLEAN AND RE-POLISH A CHEST OF DRAWERS.

First remove any stains or spots in the following manner: Apply, by means of a cork, a little aqlafortis, or oxalic acid and water, till the colour is restored, observing afterwards to wash the wood well with water and thoroughly dry. Heat one gallon of water ,in which dissolve l£lbs. of potash; add lib. of virgin wax, boiling the whole for half an hour; allow to cool, when the wax will float on the surface. Put the wax into a mortar and ‘triturate it with a marble pestle, adding soft water until it forms a paste. This laid on furniture neatly and carefully, and rubbed when dry with woollen rag, gives a polish of great brilliancy without the harness of drier varnishes.

TO PREVENT DECAY IN WOODEN TUBES OR BARRELS.

I have an American apple barrel (fir) in use for the last five years to catch the water from a small greenhouse, and there is no sign of any rot anywhere. The following is the recipe used: Get a quart of gas tar and an old paint brush. Tar your tub or barrel both inside and out, giving a good coat inside. Have an old bag or piece of carpet large enough to cover it. Put in some, paper or shaving, light it, and let it char well; then while got give anoter coat inside. Set alight in the same manner. Smother out each time when well charred. While hot the second time give a good coat outside, especially the bottom. Stood on clinkers or bricks, it can last for years.

TO DESTROY WOODWORM IN FURNITURE.

1. One of the best methods is washing the wood with a solution of arsenic in hot water in the proportion of lib. to ten gallons, or with a strong decoction of coloquintide, or bitter apple, or white hellebore, alter which i lie wood must be completely dried before the application of the following varnish: Mix 4oz. resin in an iron pot. When melted add 2oz. roll brimstone, and just when both are in a liquid state pour in li gallons of train or whale oil. Heat the whole slowly, gradually adding loz. of beeswax cut into small bits; frequently stir the mixture. As soon as the solid ingredients are dissolved, add as much Spanish brown ochre or any other colour (first ground fine with some of the oil) as will give the whole a deep shade. It will then be fit for use. Varnish as hot and as thin as possible. 2. This worm (the bora avus) is very difficult to eradicate, it being in the wood when made up. Make a paste of methylated spirit, sulphur, and red ochre for mahogany, and rub well into the small holes or pores. For walnut substitute brown umber, or birch yellow ochre. You will have to touch the polish up afterwards, as the spirit will dull it. 3. Pour methylated spirit copiously into the worm holes. By this means the woodworm is thoroughly arrested. A handy way of putting in the spirit is to use a small bicycle oil tin or sewing machine tin.