REVIVAL OF REAL LACE

Wairarapa Age, 6 April 1920, Page 2

REVIVAL OF REAL LACE

Real lace. Tho words hold a charm for every woman, who never relinquishes hope of possessing even a few inches of the genuine article to include among her household goods. For years we have let the exquisite fash- i ion of wearing lace slip into tho background ; now the edict has gone forth that, wo shall be veritably clothed in a ravishing billow of its filmy loveliness from head to foot, so accordingly women are bringing forth their treasure trove of points and appliques, bobbin laco and guipures. Lucky is sho who has a goodly store. Except that of Princess Patricia, no wedding of the past few yearß created such widespread interest in Britain aa that of Lady Diana Manners, tho youngest daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Rutland, which took placo at Westminster in June. Famed for her beauty, her versatility, her many appearauce in fancy dress, Lady Diana, in her wedding gown of gold tissue, entirely veiled with a sumptuous covering of filmy lace, and a wonderful train slung from her shoulders, composed of tho hand-made lace, wedding veils of hor grandmothers, accomnlishcd more in securing tho revival of the fashion of real laces than the arbiters of fashion, who wore earnestly trying to restore it to favour, had done in several seasons. Further, Lady Diana proved beyond doubt that real lace as an investment is on a par with diamonds ; like these precious gems, and its intrinsic value and wearing qualities —as proved by her train—is such that it is always realisable; its values increase year by year. The revival of real lace, therefore, should not bo considered in tho light of extravagance, but rather as a hint to wise investment.

All down the ages real lace has been recognised as the right of kings and queens. The courtiers of the various French regencies vied in their extravagancies in the matter of fine lace. Queens indulged in berthas, boot-tops, double scallop cuffs, whole dresses of lace. The lace collar of Catherin de Medici, and the ruffle of Queen Elizabeth, the lappets and flounces, caps, tuckers, and nprons of George 1. period, and the lavish use of costly needle-point in days of William and Mary, are familiar to all history lovers. That the patterns and designs should be preserved and enriched by modern idtJas, and passed on for our gratification and adornment, is something to be grateful for. The tremendous possibilities of good laco properly utilised has overcome all the prejudices of tho modern French and American woman, who, holding the belief that- it was a relic of tho black velvet and diamonds of the old dowager days, were prejudiced. Now, realising tho delicate luxury and Wro of tho femininely beautiful thing—laco—all agree wholeheartedly with Ouida's pronouncement that "no woman can look really plain if she is wearing an abundance of fine lace." The Parisienne and American of to-day, therefore, have quickly placed the lace sections next to their lovely jewels in their esteem. Venetian Rose Point, the delight of Marie de Medici, holds place of honour. Tho magnificent all-over design, worked in pearl loops, the flowers and ornamental patterns joined together with buttonhole, is a joy to look upon. Point do Flanders, which comes from Belgium, a land which maintains tho old custom of colporteurs carrying tho lace from door to door in packs, is one of the finest examples of cushion lace. The lovely combination laco, called Duchesse, because of the favour bestoyed upon it by some of the wives of tho early ducal families, carries flowerets and scrolls, and exquisite frond designs, and ornamentations, which resemble tho finest of embroidery. An exquisite antique piece of Point do Gaze is of tho same family, 7in in depth, with a rich bordering of roses and daisies finishing the all-over design. The favourite of Mario Antoinette, who loved it for its simplicity and light filmy beauty, was Mechlin, aptly termed tho "Queen of Laces." Honiton is the best of all English lace, in a rich all-over design. Tho fine cobwebby Point de Angleterre and linentraced Point Applique are represented by lovely rose and oak leaf design, on a net-liko web.

Limerick lace, which was produced first in 1829, always had its admirers. Tho fine chain or tambour stitches v with hearts of flowers forming the centre-pieces, worked in an endless variety o£ stitches and fillings, made an irresistible appeal. In Carrick-ma-cross there is a wonderful selection of designs of tiny flowers and scrolls, connected with brides' nnd buttonhole stitch, and ornamented with picots. Tho Irish Point and Donegal crochet is a speciality of the peasants, and is worked out by the aid of a crochet needle, in tho most charming designs of tho Book of Kells. The Americans particularly are favouring this revival of Irish laces, which lend themselves to the embellishment of rich materials. Black and midnight bluo satin cashmere de soie, velvet, and other rich silks, and even serge and garbardine, are its background, while all the other laces may bo used with equally good effect on crepe, do chines, georgettes, and mousselines, giving a wonderful added: softening and beauty as neck finishes, berthas, and flounces.