IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 15 September 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR.

I have already said that fashion has carried forward and remodelled some late winter designs. I add to this by saying that she, has anticipated some summer, but locally. The northern hemisphere cannot anticipate because it originates, creates and leads. We, here, follow, and having the advantage of a season and a half in advance—at least—we may, if we think ; fit; hasten a coming mode. J can «ee plainly enough that we have done this in several instances, "and in father a wholesale way with etceteras. Some of the "spring fashions in Paris, as reviewed retrospectively, look as if the designers there had launched a few styles to fill a gap; that is to say to supply a demand they were not qtjite for.'' AriyEbw, I see. 'Some of the most -adaptable summer modes in spring attire in the "show rooms and on promenade, and as for evening wear, so far as this is affected, many. The Balkan blouse will be a decided anticipation, and eo I must hasten'to show, you exam-' pies." The little coatee .illustrated in' this article is another. The Bulgar-! ian cashes though not actually in the same relation were still riot seen in the same relation were still not seen in Paris in the very early spring, and" did not make their appearance in New York till spring was given place to summer. Again, that extremely pretty neck frill which rises from nothing to form a kind of hedge round the neck—sides and back—was not an early spring conceit. Further, some of the- most modern dirapings, with us, were not evolved abroad at the exact corresponding period, but subsequently. All which goes to prove the advantage we gain through' our geographical position. Dressy blouses are taking on a very distinctive note. The low neck is all ruling. A pretty type has a long vestee in •"V" shape, the inset from waist to a few inches below meek, and lace above; the sides pleated from shoulder, and tabs brought over on tlie fronts, like petals. Though difficult to explain the effect is -charming in gray cotton crepe with vest of ■'cherry coloured satin and chemisette of all over lace. A remarkably striking tailored model has a collar (neck part) exactly like the fold of a rose petal, then tab collar below,, a contrastive scarf placing both in strong relief, said scarf having a horizontally placed bow well down, and wing like ends. The blouse develops in linen, the rolling collar, of course, being of medici effect. A very pretty blouse has a panel chemisette with double frill divided by band in centre, and flat collar. It is in light gray mescaline, the chemisette arid collar being of white cotton crepe. A blouse of this character is assisted by a girdle wjiich is once to waist in the usual form and then in a loop, the latter dropping to high hip, knotting side front, and falling to medium length. Just after finishing - my present illustrations I secured a design by the famous Premet of Pari*. You shall have it, next Week. It is. I think, the most beautiful distinctive dressy design so far exhibited, and I observe that designers abroad have fairly exr ploited it for dresses. This is one of the modish hats that will last. They were wearing such in the Paris and London summer with lingerie dresses. It is only.a question of material—the straw, the crown and the ribbon. An advantage in many millinery designs of now is the ease with which you may retrim them. We have got as close to der tachable mounts as ever we are likely j

to get, and we should make the most of the opportunity. The shape shown is neither too small nor too large, and the arch over the forehead is quite

a first favourite, others that vie having a negligent roll more often one side than not. There is a daintiness in present-day millinery which is not to be denied} hut then it applies to everything. The hip girdle is not to be lightly dismissed. Come it now or a little later it is bound *fo receive the endorsement of tasteful dressers. The most striking type may be simply explained. Imagine a swathinc from high waist to lower hip curve, close as the contour of the skirt in that position. Then picture another swathing, but brought down from the full depth on the left to meet the like from the back on the right front, the two ends knotting oh the hip line; and falling to different lengths, fringe to finish. It is the Oriental sash in its most picturesque and extreme form, and worn with a simple frock of striped cotton voile gh-es it an air of the t most pronounced distinction. But the same thing is expressed with a variation, both for separate blouses and dresses. Thus, have \ the basic swathing as smooth nearly as the skirt, but instead of bringing round two ends, have only one. This will be deeper, the result being different hip depth, and it will drape closely from the side to just below the narrower depth, where it will pass through an applied holder of the material, and drop therefrom in a short fanlike end, raw and turned into a fringe. But the variety of treatment is extensive, and the mention is" to excite your curiosity. You Shall have rt in picture form as promptly as possible. * You may, and should, give considerable attention to this style of coatee. The postilion back was introduced some time ago, but for some reason or other it didn't catch on. It is now coming with a rush. As it was difficult to explain things with a front view only I have included the back. It is quite the prettiest of the small coatee jackets, going as it does "with either a plain skirt with a few draped pleats, into the "step" of a ; single seam, or with ajew either side into a panel "stepped" to a greater width well below the knee. We may suppose a skirt of the latter type in cafe aii lait coloured ' silk eponge, when the coatee will be, say,, seal brown moire poplin with plain poplin for-the collar. In noting the back observe those two lines. They mark the position of two folds, which, clipped together at the waist, smooth out to nothing above and below. The front is an exceedingly beautiful conception. The bands over the waist give finish, and as for the collar it is ideal. Though on a email scale you will mark the merit in the little flat lace collar on the other, and with'it that neck frill which 1 have previously mentioned. The hat I am going to reproduce to a full size. It is an exceedingly pretty shape, and may be viewed in comparison with the others. But you have got to carry that feather to twice the height indicated. These little coatees will be seen over many different skirt expressions. There is one kind of draped skirt I should like to specially mention, that which drapes the same both, sides from narrow panel width at waist, the drapings coming jlown from a' series of pleats and ""festooning in graduated depths on the sides, This skirt has been named the "barrel." partly because of its shape as viewed from front, or back, and partlv because, after allowing for the panel break front and back, the pleats suggest the pieces of which a barrel is made. Personally speaking I have, not.seen it in the life, but I have half a dozen drawings by French artists. If the artist, who always idealises, is unable to convince you, be sure that the result will be open to considerable criticism. Draped skirts' where they go to anything at all, cannot be made by an amateur. You can always tell the expert hand, particularly when the wearer is walking. Unless your skirt is draped by an expert there will be the risk of "drag," and while that may only be a disadvantage in minor cases it may well prove fatal in others. While everyone is entitled to her own opinion I am not a greater admirer of the much draped skirt.