AMONG THE EXCURSIONISTS. No. 11.

Tuapeka Times, Volume XVIII, Issue 1214, 16 January 1886, Page 3

AMONG THE EXCURSIONISTS. No. 11.

DUNEDIN TO OAR! ARU.

Oainam enjoys a well deserved reputation for the magnificence of its public buildings. The banks are stately and colossal edifices, built of the white granite of the neighborhood. Equally imposing are the hotels, which, with the latter buildings, constitute all that is luxurious and imposing in the appearance of the town. There are, it is true, a few churches that do honor to the religious fervor of the people, and are, I hope, held in as high veneration, and receive equal patronage with the institutions spoken of above. Churches, I have long thought, attain highest splendor where those temples dedicated to usury and drink flourish most. Can it be that the owners of these kindred institutions are, despite their inodorous reputations, men. of generous zeal, or that they endeavor to conciliate Providence by making religion fashionable ? In every age the greatest Binners and rogues have been the most liberal benefactors to the Church ; not, inieed, but that the philanthropy of honest men has been directed towards the same beneficent object. The post and telegraph office, a substantial building, though with little evidence of architectural design, is centrally situated, and presided over by a most courteous and efficient, gentleman. Adjacent to it is the public library, palatial in appearance when contrasted with that of Lawrence. The volumes, it is true, are not too numerous, nor, I venture to think, is the management superior to that of our local institution. Of course, I speak from appearances only. Thanks to Mr J. C.Brown,Lawrence public library is comparatively speaking, more substantially endowed than any similar institution in the Colony. And in addition, it possesses one feature which perhaps is its highest point of excellence, and in which it has very few imitators : I mean the perfect freedom with which the general public are permitted to frequent the reading-room. There is no such indulgence allowed in Oamaru, not even in Dunedin, nor, to come nearer home, in Milton, which nurses a literary institute about as large as a hen-coop, guarded by a quick-eyed little man, who comes down on a stray visitor like a stroke of a hammer and unceremoniously shows him the door. In dismal contrast to the many sumptuous buildings that adorn the central thoroughfare of Oamaru are whole streets of squalid rookeries, with their battered, rust-eaten iron roofs, and surrounded by sickly weedgrown gardens. What the ordinary appearance of the inmates of these dwellings may be I can hardly say. To-day they are cleanly apparelled and much more respectable in appearance than their surroundings. The hotels, one of which has somehow contrived to monopolise the corner site of every block, are driving a roaring trade to-day. Many of my fellowvisitors I fear are exploring the beauties of Oamaru and its suburbs in those bar parlors, and liberally solacing themselves after the vicissitudes of the sea. The door of every hotel is garnished by a few choice " bummers," ragged and greasy, and in the hot sun emitting a fragrance that very nearly undoes all that the good bracing sea air had effected in me. One of those pleasant gentlemen, with a short black pipe, which he held in his mouth bowl downwards, wanted to know, with a tipsy leer, if 1 desired to have my luggage carried to the ship. Being encumbered with nothing weightier than a very light dust coat, which I carry on my arm, I decline his sweet-smelliug companionship and take my way. There is a detachment of the Salvation Army located here. They are now round the doors of a large wooden building, which they occupy as a " barrack," practising profanity on several loud-sounding instruments. They are probably doing good here in the great work of religion and humanity ; but I like not their ways, not their profane jests, nor their repulsive familiarity with all that is most sacred and inviolable in the sight of man. The Tekapo is evidently becoming impatient, and wishes to be off. She is constantly sounding her whistle and letting off steam in angry puffs, and giving other loud indications of uneasiness. The excursionists have taken the alarm, and are pouring down on the wharf in one broad, continuous stream. Those elderly cits, who travelled over the brine from Dunedin this morning to exchange civilities with their brother bowlers of Oamaru, are now being driven briskly to the breakwater, talking loudly the while, or furiously mopping their perspiring brows : overtaxed corpulency in the dog-days is, to my thinking, one of the most distressing pictures of human misery which it is possible to conceive. There is now a far greater degree of liveliness and animation among the pasbengers than I have seen at any other, period of the day. There is much cordiality, and protestations, and promises, and hand-shakings many times over, between themselyes and the townafolk. lam glad to see all these exuberant tokenp of friendship, and hope they are inspired by some influence less ephemeral than the "drap" with which old friends renew their acquaintance at this festive season, fhere is much coaxing and threatening and furious appeals from the whistle to the half-dozen stragglers, to whUm the hourg have seemed too short, and who are now, as they approach the ship, to tlje disgust of over a thousaud people, momentarily stopping to arrange some difference that exists only in their own muddled brains. One of these, a draper's assistant, judging from his appearance, has feloniously appropriated two kittens, which he carries one under each arm. He is playful in his cups, and insists on putting them through their paces in the presence of a crowd of delighted gamins on the wharf. Eventually he is hustled on board, but not without his two feline pets, or, as he apostrophises them, his "property." Amid much fluttering of cambric, and a parting cheer from the shore, which is lustily returned by the visitors, we steam off from the breakwater. The breesie has freshened, as it usually does towards evening ou the sea ; the waves are foam-crested and angry, beating, with loud-sounding strokes, on the ship's sides, and now and then sending a cool jet of spray among the passengers. The bandsmen are in good wind and spirits. " Our Jack's come home "is a high favqrite, the chorus of which is taken up with great promptitude and force of lung by a knot of young men who have stationed themselves close to the band. Dancing is renewed with vigor : detached parties have formed themselves into' free-and-easys, where songs with startling choruses are sung in turn. An attempt, afc f f kißs-in.fche-ring " has an abrupt and, it might be, a tragic ending. The',, unsteadiness, of : the ship 'ancl th& density of the crowd causes a few of those ospulatory fayorjj, .vrhjch are the most seductive Joittjfrea" U 'tfte gatfe, to be

administered to the "wrong lady," which nearly culminates in a scrimmage among the "young men." The pleasant young fellow with the kittens is sleeping peacefully in the lee scuppers, still retaining his "property" under the shelter of his great coat. There is a " boom " in the liquor trade, vows of eternal friendship are exchanged by tipsy men over the extemporised drinking bars. The boisterous fun of the larrikin finds much favor in the darkness. There is the usual "bonneting" and horseplay; an occasional fusilade of oaths and a fight or two, just by way of relaxation. Amorous couples in quiet corners look tenderly into each others eyes, and mentally wish that the voyage might never end. There is a brisk movement throughout the sbip ; the sailors are busily engaged on ropes and gangways preparatory to disembarking, rockets are fired into the air, a shot or two from the carronade, mutual recognition by friends temporarily severed in the crush, and then, Port Chalmeis being reached, three ringing cheers are given for the captain and officers, and the vast crowd disappear in the darkness. Pilgrim.