TEA.

Tuapeka Times, Issue 851, 30 June 1883, Page 2 (Supplement)

TEA.

By J. O. Moody. The Australian colonies consume about 18,000,000 pounds weight of tea every year, averaging 6.61 pounds per head of the population. Great Britain comes next with 4.59 per head. The drink is suited to the climate and character of the people, and the colonists use about 450 million gallons of tea infusion every year. Probably the production of manufactured tea for all countries exceeds 600,000,000, and the known exports exceed 350,000,000 pounds, without including the overland trade between China and Eussia, which is something considerable. On the slopes of the Himalayas vast tracts of country are found covered with the indigenous tea plant which there grows to a good sized tree, from 15 to 30 feet high. Probably from this locality the Chinese first obtained the plants which have since been so successfully cultivated and manufactured into tea by them. Marco Polo, who spent some years in Cathay, (China,) between 1271 to 1295 and wrote a work on the dountry, makesno mention of tea, and the first account of the product is credited to Giovanni Bolero in 1590.

After the war between Great Britain and China, the British Government and the East India Company did all in their power to encourage ljhe cultivation of the plant in India, and much money was spent with this object, skilled labor was introduced from China, and Mr. Fortune made a large oollection of tea seeds and plants, from every district in that country, with the result that India now exports about 55,000,000 pounds weight of tea.

.Ceylon, Java and^Japan are steadily increasing their outturn of tea. Natal and Fiji have started growing the product, and no doubt portions of Queensland and the Northern Territory will be found suitable for ts cultivation.

Tho best land in China is devoted to the cultivation of cereals and other produce used for food, whilst the poorest land and steep slopes (with some exceptions) are used for tea planting. This example wag followed by the early Indian growers, but the practice carried out, proved its fallacy, and no doubt kept back the industry for some years. Experience has taught "that fiat rich lands, with good rainfall, are in every respect the best for tea cultivation." (Col. Money.)

Further the European growers now find that the indigenous plant is the best, for it does not run so much to wood as the China plant, it produces new tender leaf much more copiously, oftener, and of softer texture, whilst the manufactured article is stronger, and has more aroma, and' commands a higher price in the London market. With the introduction of machinery the old methods employed by the Chinese for making tea are superseded, and the work done far more satisfactorily.

Plants as now cultivated in many parts of China are stunted in growth and*t\yiggy in character, probably from the impoverished nature of the ground, yet shrubs raised from the same seed and grown in rich soil somewhat change their character, are vigorous in growth, and more like their congener the Assamensis. A good example of this is seen in the healthy vigorous specimens growing in the Botanical Gardens, Melbourne.

The Chinese report that they pluck the leaves at intervals and as crops, thus the first crop is always the best, and appears to have the most pains bestowed on it, whilst the socalled second, third, and fourth crops follow, and are usually inferior, showing careless plucking or manufacture.

Indian tea planters on the other hand say plucking can only be done. as fast as the young leaves or flushes develope ; that there is no such thing as first, second, and third crops, though there may be many flushes, sometimes twenty-five in a season ; that it is a mere matter of manufacture, the youngest leaves are always the best ; and size of leaf determines the qualities in nearly every case. Probably the careful preparation of the first teas for market has been a custom of the Chinese for *long time, and afterwards quantity and not quality guides them. The notion of crops guiding quality, so long held by tea brokers, must be abandoned as untenable.

No machinery is used in the manufacture of tea by the Chinese, each little garden plucks and partially manufactures. The final process of picking over, re-firing, and sorting is completed by the tea Hongs (usually a company of merchants), who buy from all. the little growers, and make large chops (or lots) of uniform sample. One of these Hongs lately sold 30,000 packages of tea, a portion of which reached the colonies and was pronounced unfit for human food.

All teas are now divided into two classes, the fermented and the underfermented. These can be made from the one plant ; it is a mere matter of manufacture, the former is dried over a brisk jire as soon as possible after plucking, whilst the latter, after rolling, is kept for some h*ours in heaps or rolls, when a change takes place, very like that of barley into malt. Chinese Fermented or Blacs Teas are called Congous and Souchongs. Chinese Underfermented Teas, are called Oolongs, Pouchongs, Kooloos, Flowery Pekoes, S.O. Pekoes, S. Capers, Gunpowders, Young Hysons, Imperials, &o. The Chinese as a rule devote the best leaf and the most labor to the manufacture of underfermented teas. Indian Fermented or Black Teas are called Flowery Pekoes, Orange Pekoes, Pekoes, Pekoe Souchongs, Souchongs, and the broken of each kind, with Farmings and Dust. Indian Underfermented Kinds have the same names, but are also called namoona's. The Indian growers as a rule devote the best leaf and the most labor to the manufacture of fermented or black leaves". The underfermented kinds are usually the strongest chemically and in the cup, though almost colorless in liquor, color as denoting strength being a popular fallacy, but because these descriptions give off the largest amount of tannin they are not the best to drink. Fermented teas have a rich brown leaf when infused, with a bright liquor, and of many flavors. They are the best to use. Indian teas now. take the lead in quality over all other growths. The Darjeelings, with their fine delicate aroma and sweet fruity liquor, will please almost any palate. Assams and Cachars, with their rich aroma, great strength and body, are at present mostly used to bring up the quality of weak China sorts. Kangras, Doors, Sylhets, and Chittagongs, are getting well known and liked. The silly cry got up against Indian tea, that it is too strong, is amusing, because the remedy is so simple, viz., use less tea or add more water.

(9 months only.) Probably no new article has achieved such rapid . success and within such a short space of time.

The finest teas from China come from Hankow, in the north, and some of the Ningchows, Kutons, Keemuns, and Toondmowquans imported this season have been of excellent quality.

For years past the quality of teas from Foochow has steadily deteriorated, and it seems probable that the colonies will have to fall back on Hankow for their supplies of good teas. Outside a few choice Paklums and Chingwoo's (the Panyongs not up to the mark this season.) The bulk of the import has been made up of low class kinds. Canton seems to have given itself up to the manufacture of spurious teas, the facing, coloring, and otherwise rejuvenating old samples and imports from this quarter must be looked on with the greatest suspicion. Ceylon grows and manufactures after the manner of India, and some very choice samples have reached us, but the bulk goes to London. Japan teas have not given satisfaction, as most of the samples to hand have been too high fired. Java teas are prettily made, but rather thin in the liquor. Late shipments show improvement. Tea _ as a popular beverage is steadily spreading all over the world. Probably it is the most harmless' solace that can be, taken, and is credited with promoting thought and sobriety. Indeed, it is "the cup which cheers and not inebriates." The properties of tea are those of a mild stimulant, due in part to the presence of a small percentage of theme, and for this reason it is advisable to drink it shortly after a meal and never fasting. Essential oil is present to the extent of about one per cent. It pleases the palate and excites the digestive organs. The tannin in tea, if taken in quantity, is very indigestible, so do not stew tea to get color, for the same process extracts a heavy amount of tannin. See that the water used is good and just brought to the boil, poured on the leaves without delay, and after five to ten minutes standing used at once. Milk and sugar are highly nutritive, and the practice of adding them to tea a good one. A cup of good tea will, generally, thoroughly refresh the tired and. depressed and often remove headache. It is one of the greatest blessings to the women of our race, and an important adjunct in the daily life of all sorts and conditions of men.

Imports of Indian tea into the colonie: tor the following years are :—: — 1879 1880 3,000 lbs. weight. 1880 1881 700,000 1881 1882 1,000,000 „ 1882 1883 2,300,000 „