TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXVI, Issue 20291, 28 April 1934, Page 28 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

J.C.B. (Lyttelton* writes: I would be much obliged ix you could advise me on the following questions: (1) The names of popular annuals, biennials and perennials, in that order. (2) How often should perennials be lifted and divided, and when is it time for that? (3) Is it ail right to shift chrysanthemums before the new growth starts?—(l) six of each. Annuals: Sweet peas, asters, stocks, calendula, larkspur, nemesia. Biennials: Antirrhinum, Margarita carnations, East Lothian stock, linaria biennis, Sweet William, wallflower. Perennials: Chrysanthemums, dahlias, carnations, Phlox hebenium, violets. (2) About every third season. Each kind at six months from flowering period. (3) Yes, as soon as flowers are over, or as in No. 2. CELERY (Rangiora) writes: Would you kindly advise me what to do with my celery? I am enclosing a few leaves to show you how it is affected. One row has already died out and the others are in a fair way to do likewise. The leaves at the top of the plant go brown and then the whole plant dies off.—Caused by celery leafrust, Septoria apii. It is often introduced through infected seed. If noticed in the early stage, when brown spots on the leaves first appear, it could be checked by picking those off and spraying the plants with Bordeaux, but it is now too late to check it. Burn all the infected parts. AMATEUR (St Albans) writes: Could you advise me whether Concentrated Tankage is a suitable fertiliser to use for autumn crops such as leeks, celery, cabbage and lettuce? Would it be satisfactory to apply to chrysanthemums at present? Your valuable notes are much appreciated.—l have not used this fertiliser, but-from the analysis would say it was decidedly useful for vegetable crops. * Yes, it would make an excellent liquid manure for chrysanthemums, being rich in nitrogen and iron. FLOWERS (New Brighton) writes: I would be very pleased if you could advise me as to how and when salpiglossis should be sown, having sown

see<l as directed in early November. They failed to make headway and even after transplanting they still tailed to put on growth. As I have had no previous experience with this plant, perhaps you may be able to enlighten me.—Sow in a good warm position in September, or, if possible, in a box under a glass frame. Cover the seed lightly with fine sandy soil. When large enough transplant to flower border. They require a deep, well-manured soil. I should imagine your ground was poor or too dry for them. AMATEUR GARDENER (Greymouth) writes: I planted a few raspberry canes last winter and they did well. New canes grew as usual and I cut out the old wood and now there are dozens of canes coming up some three feet away from the main root. If I dig up these young canes and transplant in another place, will they fruit next season?—These young canes must be dug out in winter, leaving the original plantings, with the best of the canes, say, half a dozen. Those removed will do to form new beds, but will not fruit much the first year. A good cane should be three to four feet high and half an inch thick. AMATEUR (Beckenham) writes: Will you kindly tell me through your valuable gardening notes: (1) How to improve the size and quality of my quinces. The trees are 20 years old. A lot of the young fruit falls off each year. (2) Also, how to successfully raise antirrhinums from seed. I have sown several lots this autumn, some under glass, and so far none of the seed has come up. My seed beds are in good condition, and I have damped them with a fine spray every night.— (1) By hard pruning and manuring, as the tree is not getting sufficient nourishment. During the winter, cut out several of the branches and shorten back the remainder. Then, if possible, dig in old stable or fowl manure or apply bonedust up to 71b per tree. Remember also that the quince likes a moist position or plenty of water. (2) Old seed, lam afraid, as it should germinate well in any good position out of doors, or grown as you describe.