FORTHCOMING FASHIONS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXIV, Issue 946, 16 December 1933, Page 29 (Supplement)

FORTHCOMING FASHIONS.

The Well-dressed Woman Considers Her Type. SMART BEACH WEAR. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) Although the dressmakers constantly advise their saleswomen, especially for eA 7 ening dresses, to respect the length of the model, as the mannequin wears it, they declare that nearly always they cannot do this, because women insist upon having their dresses cut shorter. And isn’t it curious how little women in general know what is becoming to them? Aside from a few who form the clan of “the \vell-dres6ed woman,” they imagine that in exaggerating a mode, they make it smarter. In reality, for a smart woman there is no absolute rule for her fashion of dressing; she takes from each style Avhat suits her and discards the rest.

And may I remark, however, very modestly, that I think that this last sentence of mine deserves study. In it, lies the secret of eliic and the reason for French fashion prestige. Beyond a few general teachers, each eouturiere creates as personally as any painter, and a dressmaking house is only successful when its type becomes so well known that one can sec a dress and say that is a dress made by “so-and-so,” just as one can recognise a Raphael or a Botticelli. Each house has its own clientele. Feathers Are In Again. Feathers, which were fashionable iri pre-war days, are returning to favour again. Any Avomen who have cherished bird of paradise plumes and ospreys in the bottoms of trunks for many years, may now bring them out and count themselves lucky not to have thrown them away, for such feathers are fetching high prices and are used by every important milliner this season. A favourite hat trimming is the stiff quill clipped into triangular shapes and laid one o\ r er the other to make neat toques; indeed, the feather toque is a mode which is already firmly established. Jt may be of such downy plumes that it looks like velvet, or again each separate feather may be clearly visible. Another trimming, but an expensive one, is the aigrette set straight against a crown, generally in the front, or in the middle of the hack. Bird of paradise tails are seen placed stiffly on either side of a simple close-fitting toque. The peacock feather is also to the fore where hat trimmings arc concerned. A little toque I saw the other day composed entirely of soft sheeny green plumes, had, straight in front, a tall peacock feather. Lacquered feathers clearly proA’e the increasing vogue of Avaxed fabrics. Some are so heavily lacquered they appear almost like straw, and when used with such a material blend into it until only upon close observation can one distinguish straw from feathers. Summer Colours. How refreshing, yet how restful to the eyes, are the new summer colours. This year dressmakers, abolishing all dark or startling colours, seem to favour soft pastel tints of blue, green, . yellow or pink. The blues, which range from deep cornflower to pale sky and powder blue, are lovely. Besides a quantity of deep j pink, there is also a becoming rose-petal j shade. A sober colour scheme consists [of beige combined with warm apricot.

A tailleur with a three-quarter coat of beige tops, for instance, a light apricot dress in some soft fabric, such as mousseline or georgette. A hip-length and long three-quarter wrap seen at the spring collections has now resulted in a regulation threequarter coat, which is very smart with the new dresses. Generally speaking, the line remains straight as ever, swathed belts about the waistline do away with any accentuated waists. Bodices, both for day and for the evening, are mostly draped or gathered, while from the normal waistline the skirts hang almost straight, with just sufficient fullness to permit easy movements. The combination of tAVO bines in a single model, or of two pinks, is not uncommon, while that generally considered difficult colour combination, blue and pink, adheres in several models. Beach Clothes. Immensely feminine are the new beach clothes. Not a pyjama is shown, but in their place are lovely beach aprons and frocks worn over smartly-tailored shorts. Bare backs that conform Avith the ever-popular tanning vogue, and the

narrowest of bretelles, make these beach models ideal for the warm summer weather. To wear with these new beach clothes the dressmakers have supplied copper bracelets, necklets and other ornaments. These have a most obvious advantage, as the warm colour is so suitable for sun tan backs and arms. Ankle bracelets are also being worn, and dangling earrings of the same dull copper. A point in favour of this copper jewellery is that'it does not tarnish and lose colour, as do the white and gold metals that were used formerly. Boyish Ensembles. Boyish “ensembles” and suits go out a good deal in fashionable society, done up with linen crash or patterned cotton. These suits wear big bows at the neck in most cases. However, the Parisienne, now having the run of her own stamping ground, keeps this boyish mode in its place, knowing only too AA r ell that it takes a slender Anglo-Saxon figure to get away with such seA 7 erity. Cinema evenings, dinners in the Bois de Boulogne and at the popular restaurants in Paris, reveal the Parisienne, either in all black or playing the rustic in field flower prints or checked materials. The all-black dress in crisp, transparent stuff, in silk with lace insertions, or ruffles over it, is the Parisienne’s meat, and she thrh'es on it. She wears the most frivolous of evening hats, often in lace or flowers to top such frocks. Beautiful summer fripperies are. the new heavenly twins in organdie—a little froth of a beret, with a dashing pair of gloA'es to match. The Curved Front Corset. The curved front corset is coming back with a rush. As a matter of fact, this article of apparel has been battling for position for at least a year. Will the wasp waist take? This is the corset query that now confronts dressmakers and their clients. Echoes of this trim figure arc already to be seen at the races and in places where women dance. Anyone who has watched the progress or flic present-day feminine figure at Paris fashion openings, can be fully aware of the difficulties of clothing' the young woman of to-day. All manner of fiat-boned plaques applied to the front of present elastic corselet and girdle, have failed to control the rather pleasing curves of the girl of the moment. She may revel in easy jersey fabrics all day and wear a. comfortable elastic ceintnre, but when evening dresses demand a long, lithe line, figure-control approaches, in the person of the fitter, Avith corset in hand. KITCHEN MAXIMS. Clear up as you go; muddle makes more muddle. Dirt may be hated, but should neA'er be hidden. Not to wash plates and dishes soon after using makes work. Dirty saucepans filled with hot Avater begin to clean themselves. Salt brings out other flavours. When using ketchup be sparing with the salt.. One egg avcll beaten is worth two not beaten.