FORTHCOMING FASHIONS

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXIV, Issue 934, 2 December 1933, Page 24 (Supplement)

FORTHCOMING FASHIONS

Paris Decrees a Straight Narrow Silhouette. SLEEVES PROVIDE VARIETY'. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) “It is entirely a matter of curvet my dear,” as the Venus de Milo re marked. There is the in-curve and out curve to he taken into consideration while fashion is saying, “Keep to the straight line, let the curves fall where they may.” This is just another one of the many paradoxes that exist in the world of clothes. One hears of nothing else but the fashionable straight line the straighter and narrower the better But the moment you get beyond the A.B.C. of clothes, it becomes a problem of curves, as difficult and intricate as the incommensurable arc. One might say the base of all clothes is the curve, and the straight line is a paradox, which it actually is. When a woman attempts to modify the naturally beautiful curves of her figure, in one of the new close-fitting dresses, the result is always the same. It is the close-fitting dress which becomes modified, not the figure. This is probably the reason why Paris dressmakers are themselves modifying the line of the close-fitting dresses, and not leaving the modifications to Nature's haphazard and often unbecoming methods. New Features in Paris. The ensemble idea is still prominent, but shows frequently combinations oi two materials, print and plain fabrics, or two colours, rather than entirely matching. Many of the new gowns shown have an accompanying coat. though neat tailor-mades appear in many collections, the tailor-made is not a special feature. The strict type often has jacket and skirt in different materials and colours. The blouse may be either trim and tailored or of *soft material, sometimes ruffled. Though there are strict types, there are also more feminised models. There arc many silk tailor-mades with a tendency sometimes to elaborate their skirts. A general feature of the new mode is the concentration of interest in the backs of the models, this applying especially to skirts. Draperies, reminiscent of the bustle, are quite' frequently attempted. Skirts often concentrate their fullness in the back. For evening wear, some are finished with what might be called rudimentary trains. Most women are probably tired of the broad-shouldered line,, and this, I think, has gone ino.re or less into oblivion. Women this season want to be more feminine. Of Sleeves and Things. Sleeves are again all important. There is a newcomer, a full three-quar-ter sleeve which will be used on semitailored frocks in a way to give a totally new effect and a hint of flamboyance which is very becoming to the woman with a slim figure. Dressmakers cannot ignore the importance of the full sleeve, but the fullness is invariably nearer the wrist and elbow than tho shoulder.

The waistline is a thorn in the side of tho Paris dressmaker. One famous house who boldly dropped it to the hips last summer is now frankly bringing it up again. A second designer, who brought in a tight hip line, is thinking twice about it for this season. The general tendency is to keep the waistline on the upward trend. Vet there is no reason to think that the so-called natural waistline will be general this year. The most usual place is the very top of the hip bone, particularly when there is a belt. Waists will be varied enough to please the most difficult woman, and the same thing applies to the jackets and coats, which are being made. °

Very arresting Is the news regarding the necklines for summer. These have crept up to the neck, both for evening and day wear. Sometimes one sees frocks draped right up to the neck in front —this for evening wear—while the back is very low. Another neckline is tied high up round the throat. Skirts for Afternoon and Evening. For afternoons, the skirt is often somewhat longer. Many afternoon skirts arc tiered. Many ‘are ruffled, more often with one or two wide ones than a series of narrow ones. Often the skirt is slightly longer in the back on a rounded line.

Evening dresses are very often seen fitted to the hips, and they have hipline belts and sashes and flared skirts. Of course, no evening skirt is alwavs floor-length.

j Evening fashions are dual, dividing into informal and formal clothes. Evening wraps for formal wear bring back the long velvet cape. Long velvet coats continue in fashion. Knee-length evening wraps with big sleeves are smart. Little jackets ending on the rilis, eapelets to the normal waistline, collarettes and other indoor wraps will enable the clever girl to transform her evening frocks, together with corsage flowers, removable sleeves, etc.

The narrow, moulded, Empire evening dress is carried over this season, but the evening dress with a fitted bodice and a full skirt is much newer. Full skirts do not flare in most cases.

Silk or ribbon ruching is seen on some very smart gowns. On an evenin" skirt of white chiffon, for instance, the hem is outlined with a full ruching of bright scarlet velvet ribbon. Not another touch of colour is introduced anywhere. A bunch of white gardenias is fastened at one side of the corsage. Paris Snapshots. Among the new evening hats for in formal wear is a spangled beret, in red and black, to wear with a black dinner dress, having a spangled belt. Tri-coloured sports hats are being featured by the milliners. These hats have red crowns, beige brims, and are banded with blue ribbon. They are in vagabond sailor shapes. Paris is showing the old-fashioned blouse of Gibson girl fame brought up-to-date with her tailored suits. The newest and smartest evening colour in Paris is heart of lily green. Wool frocks that button from neck to skirt hem, with the button of the lower skirt left unfastened to show a silk under skirt, are a novelty. Shoulder straps and belts seen on a Paris dinner dress in beige are made of natural hen-pheasant feathers and a toque of these feathers accompanies tlic frock.