YOUR GRAPE VINE.

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXIV, Issue 809, 8 July 1933, Page 23 (Supplement)

YOUR GRAPE VINE.

PRUNE IT NOW. Many amateurs plant vines, but they often fail to get satisfactory bunches of grapes. This is chiefly due to neglect of winter pruning. It seems absurd to -tit off almost the whole of the past summer's growth, but that is what ought to bo done. The vine bears its fruit on the young green shoots, and the more vigorous these are the liner will be the bunches of grapes. The side shoots on the main branches should be cut back to within one or two buds of the base of the past season’s growth, and the terminal shoots, those at the ends; of the main branches, should be shortened by only half—only that part which grew last summer is pruned. If tlii-s practice is followed the remaining buds will start into vigorous growth in sp rin gNOTES. Foliage plants in rooms get very dusty at this season, and should be sponged frequently with tepid water. To produce suitable growths for cuttings chrysanthemums should be kept free of weeds, and in no way forced. Examine garden labels and renew any that are broken or on which the name is obliterated.

PRUNING TOOLS. The best and cleanest cuts are made with a knife, and though it may lie | considered slow and old-fashioned it is still the ideal pruning instrument. Secateurs, however, arc freely used nowadays, are looked upon as a part of fruitgrowing, and are certainly much quicker than a knife. The secateurs should be sharp, should cut easily, and without the need of any excessive pressure. The best kind of secateurs are those with two cutting blades. The chances of bruising are then lessened. If using a pair with only one cutting blade, see that the claw is pressed against the piece of twig that is to be cut away, the blade being next to the tree. Do not try to cut off a larger piece than can be easily got between the jaws. To get a large piece of wood and to have to use both hands and to have to 3 twist and turn the secateurs is only courting trouble. If the cut cannot be made comfortably with one hand without twisting, the saw should be used. Speaking of saws, the ordinary pruning saws are very good, as they are sharpened to cut with a downward pull, and, being curved, this means that- a branch can easily be cut above one’s head. The ordinary small keyhole saw is, however, as good as a pruning saw, especially for small branches. The blade is narrow and ea.n easily be got into the crutch between two branches. After sawing off a branch smooth the cut surface with a knife, and if at all large dress with a coat of paint or tar. This latter advice, the application of an antiseptic, becomes more essential every year, and where time permits it would be of value if every cut surface were so treated.