TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 519, 30 July 1932, Page 23 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

AVOCA (Hillsborough) asks for advice and directions on growing celery fbr market.—lf you have a glasshouse, sow the seed in boxes and transplant, following the method used in growing tomatoes, or buy the plants wh*en ready in December. Celery requires rich, deeply-worked soil, therefore prepare the ground in spring by digging manure into the trenches or place to be occupied by the plants. In your district choose a damp position, as Celery requires plenty of water in summer. The method of planting and aftertreatment will be detailed before the time arrives, but these notes will enable you to make a start on approved PHOTOS (Christchurch) writes to say he has bulbs arriving from Holland this week, and asks for directions how to treat.—Not knowing what kind of bulbs they are makes it hard to advise. If tulips, narcissi, hyacinths or similar bulbs, plant up at once in shallow boxes, using sandy soil and keep the boxes under glass if possible, failing that, under a hedge, to give them all the warmth possible. Coming so late they are probably retarded bulbs, which, if sheltered during August, should do all right. Many thanks for your words of appreciation regarding the value of the “ Star ” gardening page. C.K. (Sheffield) asks: (1) Can you recommend a suitable evergreen tree for planting on lawn? It must be able to stand cold winds and heavy frosts. I have tried a pepper tree, but it has been at a standstill for the last four years. (2) My carrots are attacked by a small grub or \vorm which burrows through and spoils them. I have also had potatoes and parsnips ruined in the same way.— (1) One of the smaller growing bamboos, such as Arundinaria gracilis, which grows about ten feet high and does not sucker, would be suitable. The variegated native flax, Phormiwn tenax variegafe, or the bronze variety, Phormium tenax rubra. (2) You should treat your soil with a soil fumigant such as naphthalene. The best way in the case of carrots, parsnips, etc., would be about a week or so before sowing. Mark out the rows and apply a dose of naphthalene at the rate of loz to three yards' run of row, and lightly fork in the disinfectant. It would be quite safe to sow the seed or plant the potato sets a week or 10 days after application. The other method would be to broadcast an application of fumigant on the soil just before digging. A.E.H. (Westport) writes: I have always had a real good vegetable garden through following the “ Star,” but I now have a bigger place and I am starting a flower garden, and there are one or two things I should like to know. (1) Do I havte to let the tops of bulbs die down before shifting them? I have some that are flowering, and I do not want to leave them behind. (2) When do T. have to plant Cladioli, and which is the proper waj( in rows or clumps? (3) Is it right they should not be put in tlie same ground two years running? (4) When is the right time to get dahlia bulbs, or plants? (5) Is it correct to put in the whole bulb or cut out a portion with a shoot attached?—Glad to know that you have found these articles useful and that they have enabled you to enjoy that delightful asset to every home, a real good vegetable garden. (1) It is best to let the bulbs die down before lifting, even when in flower, and transplanted. Lift the bulbs carefully, preserving as many roots as possible; do not dry off the bulbs, but plant them and leave them in the ground to dry off naturally. This will result in smaller bulbs, and some may not flower next season, but after a season in a permanent position they will recover. (2) Plant gladioli from now on. It is a matter for opinion and also local conditions whether clumps or rows are advisable. Where possible, rows are best, because it allows more freedom in working and gives the plants a better chance. (3) New ground each year is best, but not essential. Many people have to use the same ground year after year, or they would have to give up growing them. (4) In late spring or early summer, October and November, is the best time. (5) Both ways are in common practice. It depends upon circumstances.

The small, young plant, that is, one shoot and a portion of root, or the rooted cuttings, give the best result. W.M. (Riccarton) asks: Can you explain how it is that the flower stems of my Iceland poppies are eaten through? 1 do not think it is slugs, as the stems are teaten through about eight inches from the ground. Can you suggest a remedy?—l think perhaps it is due to the cold, wet weather causing mildew. Spray wi,th lime sulphur, 1-125. The spray will spot the flowers that are open, but will not hurt the unopened buds. GARDENER (Addington) writes: (1) My apple trees are getting fairly tall; would it do to cut th'e leading shooCs right back to the previous year’s growth? (2) Should all whip-like laterals on young quince trees be cut hack to two buds to form spurs?— (1) Cut back the growths to three or four buds; next summer, about December, cut back the growth that is made to three or four leaves. A further growth will probably be made from the topmost bud, but this can be shortened back to one or two buds. Summer pruning is the best means of inducing apple trees to spur, and to prevent their sending up long rank growths from the topmost buds. (2) Yes, a similar method to that advised above for apples is recommended. commend a suitable evergreen tree for planting on lawn? It must be able to stand cold winds and heavy frosts. I have tried a pepper tree, but it has been at a standstill for the last four years. (2) My carrots are attacked by a small grub or worm, which burrows through and spoils them. I have also had potatoes and parsnips ruined in the same way.— (1) One of the smaller growing bamboos, such as Arundinaria gracilis, which grows about ten feet high and does not sucker, would be suitable. The variegated native flax Phormium tenax variegate, or the bronze variety, Phormium tneax rubra. (2) You should treat your soil with a soil fumigant such as naphthalene. The best way in the case of carrots, parsnips, etc., would be about a week or so before sowing. Mark out the rows and apply a dose of naphthalene at the rate of loz to three yards’ run of row, and lightly fork in the disinfectant. It would be quite safe to sow the seed or plant the potato sets a week or ten days after application. The other method would be to broadcast an application of fumigant on the soil just before digging. H.. 1.5. (Ashburton) writes: I am a regular subscriber to the ” Star,” and would he very deeply obliged if you would give me the following information. I ha,ve recently changed mv w address, and when digging over an old garden I lifted some clusters of spring bulbs, daffodils, narcissi, etc. I am an amateur at flower gardening, and what I wish to know is this: (a) Would the bulbs be quite all right if separated and replanted singly straight away? (b) When is the time to plant (1) ranunculi bulbs, (2) seed? (c) Tulips? (d) Lobelia? (e) What, in your opinion, is the earliest effective flowering border, and when should it be planted? (f) Is it too late to plant chrysanthemum cuttings? —Answers: (a) No, plant in clulnps now and separate in January next, (b) Plant bulbs at once and sow seed in September, (c) January to April. (d) From September to November. (e) Aubretia, plants ready now. (f) By no means. Or the old stools can be divided.