FASHION NOTES.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 145, 20 June 1931, Page 20 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

BRIGHT COLOURS TAKE THE PLACE OF BLACK. (By A PARISIAN EXPERT.) For the first time in many years Paris is trying to get away from black as the supreme colour of winter fashions. During the autumn black served with white has been the prevailing tonal scheme of styles, and even the Parisienne is a bit fed up of her passion for the raven’s raiment. Up to the beginning of the autumn the great French dress have offered colour as a condiment only, making black the bread and butter shade. This season they are announcing a determination to get away from this sombre programme, replacing it with the offblack shades that have before been mentioned with other somewhat lighter colours, all of which are just as practical as black, and miles more flattering to the woman who wears them.

The Effect of Colour on the Spirits. The effect of colour on the spirits of both beholder and wearer is immeasurable. It can be as intoxicating as a cocktail, and when used without restraint can be just as ruinous to the health of your wardrobe. A bright red ensemble gets to be disagreeable, if it is worn continuously, and, on the other hand, a suit of some dull colour, like tail or black, is about as stimulating as drinking lukewarm water in August.

The whole difficulty has been to find colours that could be worn continuously without becoming either tiresome or ead, and fashion has hit on the idea of allowing the entire range of Nature’s hues into the style colour gamut, and inviting women to choose one or two that are perfect complements to their personjr 1 complexions and backgrounds. Leading colours this season are a new beige, a new green, a very deep myrtle green, a deep reddish brown, and some grey. There is much red in winter fashions, and it’s hard to think of a single tone of this colour that it not being used by the dressmakers. There are those wine reds, like liquid garnets and rubies, the amaranthe, the favourite red of the Borgias, the lacquer reds, and the black, cherry reds. Felts Like Velvets. It seems to be the ambition of the modistes to find felts this season which will be flexible as velvets or satins. And in consequence w© see only those felts which can be draped or tucked, gathered and pleated, while still retaining their own characteristic, being chosen for the newest models. Nothing but the most supple of felts can be used for the newest little hat, which goes by the name of “Page.” This hat has something of the line of the beret, but it is so small that it shows the entire coiffure, although it falls a little low at the back as well as at the sides. The effect is becoming, and its freshness and novelty will appeal to the woman who is searching for something that is out of the ordinary. This season has shown a neck and neck rivalry between the close-fitting skull cap and the hat with a brim, and the honours have gone to the former for the winter, at least. They have been made less trying by their tendency to drape either at the sides or the back, but the front is cut uncompromisingly off the face. Like the frocks, they require a skilled hand and individual fitting to lift them in the realm of the truly smart. The Silhouette. There is no change in the silhouette. Belts are still placed rather high, sometimes running up slightly in the front, with blousing in the back. The tunic motif Continues throughout the daytime models, but to-day is placed often in the front only, and quite short, or cut into slightly flared or rounded sections in a new way. We see an indication of the revival of draped skirts, especially for evening, in the near future. Some evening skirts touch the floor, the newest ones are ankle-length, and these are particularly recommended to your attention, as they are the prettiest and the easiest to wear. There may be a train to a dress this season, but no one takes trains seriously. Hemlines are level for all times of day. Our Sketch. The illustration is an evening dress in rose pink crepe de chine and lace of the same colour. It is chiefly remarkable for its quaintly cut yoke, in lace nnd three-tier uneven flounoes, also in lace.

THE NATION’S RESPONSIBILITY. If a nation have unity of will, have pervading sympathies, have the capability of reward and suffering contingent upon its acts, shall we deny its responsibility, its need of a religion to meet that responsibility? of that religion of grace by Which alone human responsibilities can be met? . . . A nation, then, having a personality, lies under the obligation, like the individuals composing its governing body, of sanctifying the acts of that personality by the offices of religion, and thus we have a new and imperative ground for the existence of a State religion. -—William Ewart Gladstone.