WOMEN AND THE HOME

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18544, 18 August 1928, Page 22 (Supplement)

WOMEN AND THE HOME

FROM A PARISIENNE’S NOTEBOOK. (By YVONNE RODIERJ A notable feature of current dress displays is the elegant array of capes in soft moire and taffetas, with contrasting coloured linings. These are cut full enough to wear over bouffant draperies; and red, yellow and pink are highly favoured shades. But amid the competition of the reds, yellows and pinks, a model in sapphireblue with a design in silver daisies, stands out as a superlatively attractive model, and proves that the Parisienne’s recent craze for blues of every hue is not completely on the wane. This blue creation is lined with alternate strips of blue velvet and silver lame. A gay scarf is eternally helpful in imparting the requisite bright note to the useful tweed suit, of which the Parisienne is so enamoured. Her country-house wardrobe invariably includes two or three such ensembles, and at he Touquet the tri-colour striped silk scarf is the correct mode. Striped and checked designs are considered more “ sporting,” and, above all, more “English,” than the ultra large white spots on a dark ground that characterise the newer but apparently not universally successful scarf accessories. Sandals are very much the vogue again, and are seen in numerous new editions, plaited in two colours. When worn with the right sort of sports clothes on the right occasion, the manycoloured sandal is by no means without attractiveness as a gay contribution to the sartorial scene. Flannel, incidentally, is the chief rival of soft tweed among toilettes “pour le sport.” Some of the very smartest and most alluring ensembles are materialised in* dark or light blue flannel, with plenty of grey shades as usual. Natural coloured flannel also is considered very chic. I have seen a pleated skirt of this material looking delightful with a clever bordering of pale green braid, and a matching jumper with white-and-green cambric frills. The milliners continue to use straw and felt together with excellent effect. Straw hats have felt brims and narrow strips of felt as trimming. A felt hat has a bripi of varnished straw, and a narrow band of the straw round the base of the crown, gathered into a bunch, like flowers to trim one side. Brims are increasingly uneven. Many dip low over one ear only. Black Bangkok Hats have their own unrivalled prestige, since they can be worn with almost any type of dress, and footwear in smart black can keep them appropriate company. Meanwhile, despite the unabating efforts of the modiste, it would seem that only a wedding, or similar smart function, can persuade the Parisienne to desert the chapeau of small and comfortable dimensions for the wide-brimmed type.

SILVER LININGS. Dear days there are when all our world is smiling; when our glad hearts go out to those we love; when not a moment is o’ercast with sorrow; and not a shadow dims the blue above. And there are days when there is no escaping the nameless sadness that enshrouds our souls; when not one little sunray lights the greyness, and in our hearts a hopeless requiem tolls. Glad days and sad days, take them all together 1 Count up the joys that still outweigh the griefs! Count up the rainbows and the silver linings—that still rebuke our rebel unbeliefs 1 WHAT WOMEN ARE DOING. IN GREECE. They have formed a “Grecian League for Women’s Rights” and are publishing their own paper, mostly in Greek and partly in French, called “The Right of the Women.” The title is apt, since in Greece women have no public rights as yet. At the present time they are concentrating their energies on having the municipal vote granted to them; it was promised about three years ago, but the promise has not yet been redeemed.

It would be wrong to say that a Greek woman is regarded as some sort of soulless machine by her Government. She does possess certain rights—within a limited scope, however. She may teach in Government schools both for boys and for girls, and she is not denied admission into the Civil Service. At least this is provided for by the Greek Constitution, which says that citizens are received into public service, and explains that the word “citizens” can be taken as meaning people of both sexes. Also the law demands that a wife’s consent must be obtained before the husband can dispose of her property. On the other hand, a Greek woman s freedom is hedged in by a great many legal limitations and prohibitions. She may not witness a will The children’s guardianship is invariably in their father’s hands. A widow, on re-marry-ing, must ask for a guardian to be nominated. Even in lesser matters her liberties are clipped. A cheque, signed by a woman, has no more worth than a simple promise, and, according to the law now in force, ne woman may engage herself in any trade without the consent and approval of her husband. About two years ago came the bill which allowed Greek women lawyers to practise, but the permission was guarded by several restrictions. Nevertheless, the women of Greece have not lost courage. They are looking forward to the future, when their daughters will be placed on an equal footing with men citizens in all matters concerning civic and political life. BATHING DE LUXE. Bath salts are deliciously fragrant things, but they are by no means the only bathroom accessory needed to ensure a really refreshing “tub.” One gets used to a favourite bath salt, of course; but physical fitness benefits immensely from changing the regime once in a while. The bathroom shelf should accommodate things every whit as luxurious in their use, though homely in their nature, as the coloured crystals of rose or jade or lavender. There is the artificial sea-bath, for instance, that can be easily prepared lat home with the aid of 2ilbs of salt, 6ozs of sulphate of magnesium (otherwise known as Epsom salts), loz of sulphate of sodium, half an ounce of

chloride of magnesium, and 3ozs of chloride of calcium. These ingredients must be well crushed down, well mixed together, and in a tin with a close-fitting, airtight lid. Two to three tablespoonsful added to the bath, and thoroughly stirred into the water, will produce a miraculously refreshing “dip.” . Two other types of bath in the category of real “refreshers” are the effervescent and the ammonia. For the first, crush 4ozs of carbonate of soda to a fine powder; fnix it well with sozs of tartaric acid; add 3ozs of rice powder, and mix thoroughly. Just before stepping into the bath, add two or three tablespoonsful of this invigorating tonic preparation to the water, and stir well. The ammonia bath is the simplest thing imaginable, necessitating merely the addition of a dessertspoonful of diluted solution of ammonia, which again should be added immediately before entering the bath. ... . Of special benefit to the skin is the oatmeal bath. Place about four tablespoonsful of fine oatmeal in a basin and add cold water very gradually, stirring all the time to avoid the formation of lumps. When a smooth paste results, pour in more water until you have three-quarters of a pint. When the bath is ready, add the oatmeal solution and stir well so that the oatmeal is dispersed through the bath,

FASHIONS—PRESENT AND FUTURE. “Pretty names for pretty colours" must surely be the watchword of those who produce and christen the new shades which appear from time to time in the fashionable world. “Dawn,” for instance, aptly describes the delicate, vague pastel shade which tones so admirably with the soft mauve tints of the moment. “Matin” is a fitting name for the pale beige which throws into exquisite relief the deeper blues, while “Noon” —a real sunburn tint—looks well with almost any colour, and is excellent for fine silk stockings. “Caramel” is actually the latest development of dark beige, and Sunset needs no word to describe the subtle appeal of its opalescent beaut}'. Models in unpatterned fabrics are more and more in evidence in the best ‘'collections.” Quite the most admired gown shown by an important designer this week was expressed in plain red chiffon. The chiffon • was beautifully draped to the normal waistline at the ba,ck, where the folds were arranged to suggest a slight bustle effect before continuing in a dipping line almost to the ankles. At a dance the other night was a debutante; a pretty blonde debutante who wore one of the most delightful ingenue frocks I have ever seen. It was made of cool pale green organdi; the skirt was quite long and bouffant, and the bodice was drawn in pretty folds to the sides, where tiny frills covered the seams. Scattered careless ly over the skirt were broderie Anglaise flower motifs worked in fine silver threads, similar embroideries appearing oq the Jong eqds of the vplunun-

ous green organdi sash which encircled the natural waist. With a fillet of dark green leaves and silver flowers round her head, and a little green fan painted with a design in silver, this debutante triumphantly proved what simplicity with a capital S can do when a captivating frock is the question. The introduction of scarves and kerchiefs into the realm of evening toilettes has brought about the vogue of the scintillating sequin capelet—it cannot be called a cape 1 Made entirely of glittering sequins in gold, silver, black, or a colour, the little capelet lends a certain “air” to an otherwise plain and unobtrusive gown. Diamond-shaped sequins with holes in all four corners are used, and these are strung together on metal threads to form a triangle which is arranged low over the shoulders, with one point hanging down the back and the other two caught in front with a posy or a buckle. The Capuchin hood is seen on some evening wraps and on some of the more dressy day coats. It makes an excellent frame for the face and is especially good in black lined with white on a black cloak. Two one-yard lengths of crepe de chine in harmonising colours, or in two shades of one colour, will make the newest daytime scarf. The lengths are merely joined to make a scarf two yards long, which is fastened in front with a 6carf-ring, or tied in a careless “artist” bow. The effect is extremely smart when the shades in the scarf repeat those in the dress. Narrow strips of very soft felt joined with fancy raffia stitchery make a pretty little pull-on hat. Numerous attractive colour schemes to suit various gowns may be worked out in this way. On the small turban which often accompanies the tailor-made suit it is considered chic to arrange a huge flat bow of ribbon, or velvet-ribbon, so that it falls over the right ear and on to the neck. It takes away the slightly bare look produced by the turban in conjunction with the severe tailored coat collar. Boyish clothes and short hair during the day; ultra-feminine styles and elaborately dressed wigs—and patches 1 in the evening! Such is the prophecy for the near future voiced by a recognised master of the art of dressing. The same authority declares that white hair, carefully shingled, looks lovely with the vague nuances of lavender, blue and silver which the elderly woman should wear. —Diana Dane.

THEATRE TO BOUDOIR. One of tlie novel "turns’* at a recent dress parade was a procession of mannequins wearing embroidered shawls—not as theatre wraps, but aus complements to boudoir toilettes. Over an Oriental smoking suit, foi instance, was draped a marvellous blue-and-gold silk Chinese shawl, decor a ted with ships in gold lame. An other sylph-like creature promenaded the stage in an exquisite white lingerie creation, over which was thrown a large shawl in finest cashmere in vivid reds and greens that looked perfectly wonderful against the dead white. The orthodox dressing-gown, in* one of its latest guises, has a wide sili border all round, of the same coloui and material as the contrasting lining FROM A WOMAN’S ARMCHAIR (By MAVIS CLARE.) For some time I pondered whether ' ought to permit myself to write of th< letter that lies beside me. For it i such a letter, as a man writes onb once in a lifetime, when the Angel o Death has crossed his threshold ant taken his nearest and dearest. Finally it seemed to me that the note of re\> erent intimacy would lose none of it sacredness if it were made the them, of one of these quiet talks from nr armchair. My correspondent, breaking the spe] of tragic silence that followed upon hi bereavement, has tried to talk to m as if we were sitting opposite to on another by his own lonelv heartl“Why? Oh. why?" is the qSSSS that recurs again and again. And th poignant heart-cry: “She was all in ai to me; my very life; as wholly min as I was wholly hers." Though it voice all the anguish of an irreparable losj in that very cry is comfort for th years to come. Some day, the memor of that oneness will mean the trues solace the human soul can know. Not all of us are capable of that pe feet communion of mind and heart an spirit; and very few of us, alas, will t able to look back upon a record < devotion expressed in unremitting dail , tenderness and care for those wo Jov<

My friend, to whom this overwhelming grief has come, ministered for years to the invalid wife who is now at rest; yet is tormented incessantly by the anxious fear that maybe, at some time or another, during “her" lifetime, he may have hurt her all unknowingly. He probes his conscience and his memory for little deeds left undone; some comforting touch withheld; some little act of- tenderness unwittingly forgotten. I, who know the record of his selflessness, am stung to tears by that supersensitive humility in one whose example is a shining light of human service. This would be a happier world if all who have linked to their own some other human life could be as mindful of its deepest needs! For most of us, retrospect holds so definite a reproach! So often we must grieve, too late, over our failure to appreciate the nearness and dearness of those who belong to us; who are so intimate a part of our lives. We plant rosemary for remembrance on the grave of the be loved dead; yet how often, during their lifetime, do we strew their path with rue!

The noblest, the highest human love, is that which bestows the wealth pf its heart upon the living. The relentless hand of Fate may snatch from us the familiar form, the dear human presence, ere wc have realised the closeness of the communion that has become so necessary to our happiness. It is our part so to cherish the life that is with us, so to enwrap it round with love, that when the blow falls which must leave us bereft, the anguish of the loss is softened in time to come by the realisation that we did what we could to bring joy into the life that is ended. A “ PICK-ME-UP.” An excellent pick-me-up for an invalid or convalescent is made as follows: Bring about half a pint of good good chicken broth to boiling point and pour it carefully over the beaten yolk of one egg, stirring briskly meanwhile. Now pour the mixture into a small double saucepan and re-heat, stirring continually and being very careful not to allow it to boil, otherwise it will curdle. Remove from the fire, add a pinch of salt and one dessertspoonful of- good sherry. Serve in a cup with small toast fingers. MOMENTARY MUSINGS. It is a great mistake to make your talent with the 'needle too evident. If you happen to be gifted in this direction, hide your light under a bushel when the liege-lord is about! That a woman can “rim up" a becoming little toilette on her own sewing machine—can dress on next to nothing—and garb the children likewise—is the ineradicable impression at the back of many a husband’s mind. Especially the sort of husband who is frightfully popular with his masculine compeers. And who will cheerfully lose a Treasury note or two each week at the billiard table or in the card-room of his club. CURD FOR APPLE CHEESE-CAKES. Peel, core and slice three pounds of tart apples. Simmer them gently in half a pint of water until thoroughly cooked; then beat smooth and rub through a sieve. Add one and a half pounds of sugar, a suspicion of ground cinnamon, the beaten yolks of two eggs and four ounces of butter. Stir this mixture over gentle heat until the eggs cook and thicken, but on no account allow it to boil. The curd will not keep for more than three or four days? it should, therefore, be made fresh each time it is required. A smaller quantity may, of course, be prepared if desired. Use in the ordinary way for tartlets, sandwich cakes, etc. LITTLE HINTS FOR THE HOME NURSE. The iu lowing facts may be useful to the home nurse who has a dyspeptic patient to look after: — Two lightly boiled eggs are digested in one hour and three-quarters, but raw eggs take half an hour longer. In spite of this fact, raw eggs are often preferred for invalids, since they are less irritating than boiled ones. It is this non-irritating character which causes the digestive juices to flow more slowly. Two poached eggs take two and a half hours to digest, and two hard-boil-ed eggs three hours. Hard-boiled eggs, however, if finely chopped, are as easily ; digested as if soft-boiled. A glass of boiled milk will take from two and a half to three and a half hours to digest; fresh milk half on hour less, and buttermilk the least time of all. SOUP-MAKING WISDOM. r For first stock always use fresh meat , and bone, the former cut up quite ' small and the latter well cracked. Add I the required amount of water, accorde ing to the quantity of meat and bone, j and allow to simmer only for about five hours. ’ For second stock, cooked meat and ” bones require boiling for the same * length of time to extract the gelatine; : this will become a jelly when cold. Thick soup must be just sufficiently t thick to prevent the vegetables from 1 sinking to the bottom of the pan. A l little cornflour mixed with cold milk jj or stock is the best means of thicken- ' in fiilk soup, which is specially good for children and invalids, is made as i follows: Put two slices of Onion and two blades of mace into one pint of milk (less two tablespoonsful) and bring to boiling point. Remove th© e mace. Mi* one egg with one ounce of cornflour and stir into this the two t tablespoonsful of cold milk, beating out all lumps. Slowly pour on to this mix- -. ture the boiled milk, season to taste, d and add a nut of butter. Return all e to the saucepan, and stir carefully over very moderate heat. Do not allow the y soup to boil again, or the egg will i. curdle. Strain before serving,