WOMEN AND THE HOME

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17865, 5 June 1926, Page 18 (Supplement)

WOMEN AND THE HOME

OUR PARIS LETTER.

FROM PAULINE COURLAXDER. There are so many delightful models, both for indoors and outdoors, just now in Paris that it seems impossible to make a selection for the purpose of description. How would you like, for instance, a lemon yellow cloth coat, worn with a yellow felt hat, with a small perky bow sticking out at the left side, the thinnest of black stockings and dainty black patent leather shoes, to match the bow on the hat? The dress for this toilette is of yellow georgette with three kilted flounces, or a gay crepe de chine one with a yellow printed pattern, a shaped flounce, and a tightly-tied sash on the hips. A BROWN TOILETTE. Then there is a jaunty little suit with a tobacco brown light-weight kasha coat, the greater part of which is covered with squares marked out with tiny rose-pink pearl buttons, about a dozen in each square, and a pleated skirt of ochre-coloured kasha, with a finely-pleated blouse of crepe de chine in ochre ond tobacco-brown checks. With this is worn a brown straw hat, something of the Breton sailor shape, ochre stockings, and brown kid shoes with one strap. Another temptation is a short reefer jacket in brown and beige checks. It is worn with a straight short skirt of brown cloth and a jumper of wine-col-oured silk, a beige felt hat with brown Petersham ribbon, beige stockings and brown shoes. Cropella is a great favourite here for simple little frocks. It looks especially charming in that new rose-beige colour that suits so many complexions. One delightfully young looking coat frock is made with tailored revers and cuffs of crepe de chine. The revers button , down the front nearly to the waist with a double row of buttons; the skirt is made with full godets at the sides. A QUAINT FROCK. The gayest little afternoon frock that Paris has ever seen is made of printed mousseline de soie in white, red, blue, and mauve in a pattern like handfuls of those coloured balloons. It has a very full apron front and long tight sleeves with a double row of wide cuffs, and is made over a foundation of bright blue crepe de chine. Victorian collars and puffy undersleeves are made of dainty lace-work and stitching, and worn with black frocks of that new heavy silk called “Tiflis,” which is so suitable for the tailored simplicity of the coat frock that depends on its cut for success.

W ith these silk tailor-frocks are worn simply trimmed, or even untrimmed hats of gros grain, a form of Petersham, in black or in gay colours. They gen-

erallv have high crowns with brims rolled into all kinds of attractive angles or left to shade the face, with perhaps a chic little turn at the back. NEW MILLINERY. The Paris milliner is using every sort of fabric in all manner of quaim alliances. A piquant mingling of straw and felt, sumptuous ribbon adorning the lightest feather-weight Japanese hemp or Bangkok straw (the last in endless variety of colouring) ring the changes Provided the hat bears the unmistak able Paris label, no melange is taboo We have travelled far from the day when one kind of fabric heralded the approach of a certain season. Narrow strands of taffetas ribbon are ingeniously plaited into some of the most chic little models across the Chan nel, while gros grain and Petersham are prime favourites. Fanciful Italian straws are seen in the most exquisite shades, and embroidered crepe de chine chapeaux will appeal to the sports girl as the correct complement of her smart suit. DISTINCTIVE EVENING FROCKS Some . of * he best dressmakers arc specialising in evening frocks that de pend for their cachet on one masterltouch. For the rest, they are as simple as a very young girl’s dress. The long sleeveless bodice almost fits to the fig ure; is cut straight across from shoulder to shoulder, and perhaps outlined by a row of crystal beads or a gold and silver thread. The skirt can best be described as having an apron across the

back and sides which gives it a jaunty ;wing, and leaves the front straight Sometimes the apron is edged with . contrasting ribbon hem-stitched on, o a row of flat chiffon roses. The masterly touch generally come at the waist. Perhaps it is a set of tin;tucks at the side that give a little pouch to the bodice which is tight! > clasped round the hips by a paste bek shaped like a giant bracelet; or by a folded sash that appears to have no end or beginning, but is edged with a row of pearls. A NOVEL TOUCH. Little sleeveless jackets are worn over simple evening frocks of tulle, georgette or mousseline de soie. These jackets are made of chiffon, cut rather shortwaisted and flaring at the side, and are studded with sequins or embroidered in gold or silver thread. Sequin trimm.ng is almost as popular to-day as it was in its first youth about twenty years ago. The sequin corslet with long hanging panels like petals is very charming when worn over a full-flounc- j ed tulle frock. Bugle trimming sounds old-fashioned ' to the last degree; yet here it is again on the very latest evening frock of black chiffon alternated with touches of straws or paste. Round the hem ther are two rows of half-moons bugleedged and cut out, and through them j one catches glimpses of a white satin j underskirt. The whole looks like two i rows of white half-moons sparkling with jet and paste. Another famous house is making sim-ply-cut evening frocks of pastel coloured mousseline de soie. with a pattern picked out in coloured beads, and wide bead fringes on the skirt. Rose pink is still the favourite colour for evening wear. Coral p'nk and black are a charming combination: or pure white embroidered with crystal beads. Less trying and more useful is the black tulle frock over pale pink or white satin taffetas. The underdress is very tight; the tulle bodice is pouched, and the skirt very full and with an uneven hem.

ELEOW DRILL.

If some of us could just stand be hind ourseb es for a minute or two, what shocks we should get! It’s so easy to be satisfied with a pretty front view, and, of course, a glance into the hand mirror to see that one’s hair looks all right at the back. But that’s about as far as many of us do look, and one most important cature—or should I say two features? -is elbows. Haven't you seen arms that look uite smooth and white and pretty Torn the front view marred, when their jwner turns round to let you see them, by red, rather scraggy elbows? And vith the prevailing sleeveless frocks, uch elbows look distinctly out of the »icture. What to do for them? Why, it’s the simplest thing in the mrld. After washing at night, our palm, put a few drops of olive )il in, and massage the elbow of the •pposite arm thoroughly. The skin should be warm and sofi roin the recent bathing, by the way o that the oil absorbs easily. Massage each elbow for several min ites, wipe off any superfluous grease vith a soft cloth, and dip your elbows juickly in and out of very cold water. Dry gently with a soft cloth, and rub in just a suspicion of glycerine jelly or glycerine and lemon. • Keep a cut lemon on the washstand One that has be*?.n squeezed for household purposes will do. Then after your morning bath, stick your elbows into this half lemon, and rub round and round.

HOUSE HINTS.

Glycerine is most useful in the kitchen. The cook will find that a teaspoonful of glycerine added to a pound of flour in bread and cake mak ing is a great improvement, for not only will the dough be better, but the bread or cake will keep fresh much longer. A tablespoonful of glycerine added to every pound of fruit used in making jam will prevent crystallisation, and the jam will keep better. A REMEDY FOR CRACKED FURNITURE. Owing to the fact that unseasonable wood is used, modern furniture is liable to crack and the joints to open To remedy this, fill the spaces with beeswax till they are even with the wood, and then sand paper across the crevices. You will find that the dust of the wood will stick to the wax. Varnish the cracks carefully and deftly, and vou will find them to be almost invisible.

MANY NEW NOVELTIES FOR SLIPPERS USED IN REST HOURS.

For bedroom wear and rest hours there are all manner of novelties in the way of slippers. The most sought after fad at the moment is a sole of highly painted wood, which can be adorned with cubist squares or delicate hand-painted sprays of flowers, as you please. This is held to the foot with two bands of crochet, much after the style of footwear in ancient pictures, one band stretching across the toes, the other around the ankle an/1 instep. A more fairylike variation of the same model is a sole of quilted satin, with bands covered with feathers or tiny flowers. Eccentric slippers are made of coloured leathers. These are fashioned after the mule shape, but with exaggerated toes curling over, reminiscent of the Arabian Nights. Another example of the new craze is a sole made with the slightest suggestion of back and small toe caps. From these there are bands of jeweiied tissue, holding the slipper safe and sound.

CLOTK OF GOLD.

MANY SUPERSTITIONS CONCERNING EXACT LOCATION OF MOLES

If you have a mole on the left shoul ler it shows that you will have sorrow hrough bearing other people’s bu> lens. If, however, you have a molt in the middle of the chin you are an out-and-out flirt. A mole on the sole of the foot shows :hat its possessor will lead a nomadk life. Should the mole be situated on the sole of the left foot the journey? will be unprofitable, if on the righ sole the journeys will be the reverse. If you discover a mole on the righ knee you will have a distinguished marriage. A mole on the top of thi right foot is evidence of wisdom wei directed. Some people are very clever but their wisdom offers neither wealtl nor glory. Such people have a molon the top of the left foot. A mole on the side of the neck shows wisdom and early success.

TWO NEW EEAUTY PROBLEMS ARE CREATED

Modern fashions have created two new beauty problems for the women of this age, the thick ankle : evealed by the ever shorter slc ; rt, and the uglv line at the back of the neck, brough about by the razor of the shingler. So long as poets could write coyly about, feet like little mice peeping from under petticoats, ankle beauty coulo be left to care for itself. Defect've ankles were merely hidden, and when the short skirt vogue made this discretion impracticable, the beauty doctors prompt I}' set to work on women’- 1 * ankles with reducing pastes and pro cesses in which restrictive rubber bandand massaging played the principopart. Ugly backs of necks, have not. however, responded to the magic of beauty culture so readily. When hai: \va i coiled on the nape of the neck in; the old-fash ; oned way, and little curling tendrils hovered there, no one thought of so unobtrusive a feature as the back of the neck making or marring a woman's appearance. Shingling brought it into the full light of day, and, as with the ankles, many necks were found wanting. The beauty specialists were able to help, but the next visit to the hairdresse: invariably undid all they had done. The dressmaker, therefore, has stepped in. end is dealing with this ultramodern problem on her own lines. Why tulle should have been sold by the hundred thousand yards to swathe round the throats of women with boyish coiffures, who affected the “garconne” type of dressing, must have puzzled many people. The excessively feminine tulle, likewise the • opes of pearls that closely girdled the throat and fell in a heavy loop on the back of the neck, were there to distract attention from the neck line. Now comes the latest device of the dressmaker, the half-pierrot ruffle of tulle, prettily frilled so that it stands smartly out at the sides, and entirely hides the back of the neck. It appeared at a sma t dress display in Paris a day or two ago, and is already being reproduced in London.

THE FOLLY OF FUTILE CONVERSATIONS.

I dragged James out to an At Home the oilier day—and then forgot all about him. Now if you take an unwilling and fractious man to an At Home, it’s most unwise to forget him even for haif an hour—which is the time I let James slip from my memory while I chatted gaily to a friend. And then, quite by chance, I glanced across the room. 1 here on a ..hair sat James, looking l.ke P- uliariy dc„p_rate murderer of u aaliy Lru-al tendencies. He was ..,uae alone. So 1 stopped in the middle of a sen tence and, rising abruptly to my feet,

left my startled companion without explanation. In two minutes James and I were out in the street. His brows tvere drawn together in a fearful scowl, but when at last he spoke it was in a sugary tremolo that might have belonged to a female lunatic. “ Oh, what lovely sunshine we had this morning, did we not?” Then he answered his own question: “ Yes, but I fear it’s clouding over.” “Oh, don't say that! What a libel on dear King Sol—after he’s been so kind to us early this morning! I won’t hear him abused.” “ Well, I think it’s raining a little.” “ Oh, dear, how very annoying, but then it’s light rain, and we mustn’t expect too much, must we ? There were just a few hours this morning when the sky was so blue. . . Ana what a difference it makes! Just a few hours’ sunshine before rain makes all the difference ! ” He broke off and said bitterly*, in his natural voice: “ And that’s how those human canaries in there twittered to me—two of 'em—one planted each side of my* chair.” “ Oh, you must have been mistaken,” I said, soothingly. “ I tell you I wasn’t. And it was worse than that, and they kept it up for a solid three hours—the simpering, half-witted jellyfish!” “ Darling—do jellyfish simper?” “ That I can’t say. But I can tell you this—if you ever take me anywhere again and leave me with those women, I’ll knock their heads together. As it was, I exercised a marked self-restraint.” “What did you do?” I demanded nervously. James smiled complacently. “ Nothing—except to try to be polite and talk, in a way that interested them. I merely said, * Did you notice how bright the moon was last night? Just for five minutes, at exactly halfpast twelve. Ido like a bright moon don’t you? But, of course, it’s so often cloudy; still, it’s nice when it’s bright as it was for a little last night at half-past twelve. It was ever so bright then, and then it clouded over, which was such a shame. Still, it’s something t.o have had so bright a moon at midnight—is it not?’ ” Well, I make no excuse for Jame. but there are a lot of women wh< make silly conversation and who sa.. the most futile things for no ap parent reason.

“DIFFICULT” ADOLESCENCE.

(By PHILIPPA KENDRICK.

I think it was Emerson who cited the case of a boy who,, shy to stupidity in the company of his elders, was immedi ately transformed—on escaping to the congenial society of his compeers—into a rather swaggering, self-confident youth, \-ery well able to hold his own in any conversation going. The inference to be drawn from thi: by worried parents of tiresome adoles cents is only of use in so far as it ma> help them to see a little further thai the ends of their 6wn noses, and se them to the salutary task of realising that they probably do not know quite all that is to be konwn about youn* John and Mary. Looking backwarc would profit them, too. Memories o their own adolescent days might sti: within them! Father is incensed either by John’ social gaucheries or by his insufferab’--precocity, and is distressed by his obst nate lack of response to affectionau paternal overtures, Mother is hurt to tears by Mary’ trying indifference to the acquiremen of social savoir faire, and by her casua treatment of devoted parents. Sh could help Mary in so many ways wen. she only allowed. But Mary holds hei self determinedly aloof, having no iir. mediate use either for maternal cai esses or maternal warnings. Her par ent has perforce to listen, sometime in agonised silence, to those smothere outbursts of hysterical adolescent weep ing from behind closed doors; and tc. watch with piteous helplessness Mary’ sullen moods of discontent with hersel and life and the world. Adolescence is essentially the perio< of criticism and intolerance run riot and boys and girls passing through thi. phase are terribly, cruelly quick to re ent what they are pleased to regard a? unwarrantable interference. Teacher; as well as parents might well be flab .ergasted could they overhear the cyni al comments upon them and theii ibvious shortcomings made by these v'outhful critics. Dear, pathetic, unreasonable adoles ents! And poor worried, harassec parents! If the latter would but grasp he nettle of disappointment, the worsi ing would go. For those disappoint ;S g, priggish, difficile sons and daughers (except in cases of real disease.) are uite happy pouring into each others sympathetic ears their woes and their hapsodies and their disgusts. And what real harm can they do? ,Vhat if they do dub their elder* generally and parents in particular “impos•,ible back numbers?” . . - Wait a while, father and mother of John and Mary! Soon they will be laughing with you and at themselves over those Intolerable airs and graces of which they are even now secretly ashamed.

THE LEGEND OF THE TURQUOISE

In olden days legends were woven around all the jewels. Each month of the year had its own special precious stone, and its character was obtained from reading the stars. The turquoise was the stone associated with Taurus, the Bull, the sign of the Zodiac, in which the sun is at the end of April and beginnn.g of May. Therefore those born at tnis time of the year may, if they wish, take the turquoise for their birthday stone. The beautiful blue of the turquoise caused it to be dedicated to Venus, thus it is the mascot of lovers and married people. It was more used for mascots than any other stone, and until recent times was believed to have power of warning its wearer of danger by chang ing its colour. With age, or after being washed with soap, practically all turquoises become green, but the warning change was very different from the change caused by age. In the East a turquoise is still cal‘ed the horseman's talisman, as it is supposed to protect from falls and injuiries received while riding.

Fine ashes, moistened with turpentine, are excellent for cleaning sieei and brass. A very good preservative for linoleum can be made by mixing one gill of methylated spirit and one ounce oi shellac. Let the latter dissolve thoroughly, then apply to the linoleum with a soft flannel.