Fashions and Furbelows

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17178, 23 October 1923, Page 9

Fashions and Furbelows

Notes bp Special Contributors

BUSTLES!

With the tentative re' :rn of fashions of the ’eighties, the “ back view ” has become all-important. There is no denying that, the c * bustle ” effect is with lis again, as evidence the upward swathing of tine backs of skirts and the large and somewhat stiff sashes tied at the back. Trimming will have nothing to do with the fronts of our dresses now:

it concentrates entirely on the backs. Some frocks tie at the back of the neck with ribbon or ribbon velvet, with long ends, and some are fastened by fancy buttons all the way down. Some look as if the wearers had forgotten to do them up, for they are only caught together at the neck and waist, revealing the underslip else-

A REVIVED HANDICRAFT.

Almost all women are fond cf bandi- ! craft, with a special penchant towards those that- offer l>oth a useful and artistic means of self-expression. Among the old handicrafts tliat are being revived few are so well adapted to modern use as needlework , tapestry. Throughout the centuries it has claimed its votaries, from the time of Penelope to the comparative modernity of the Baveux tapestry, whilst for the twentieth century worker endowed with imagination and a certain gift of self-expression Phis form of handicraft opens up art endless vista of ideas and j>os«ibililjes. One is familiar with the tapestries from the celebrated old looms of France and Flanders and w ith the wonderful reproductions of their modern representatives, but the hand-wrought tapestries worked cm heavy canvas, with close-set diagonal stitches cf silk and wool, are not pearly well enough known to those who desire to reproduce their beauty. Yet in some form tapestry to-day is generally recognised as an essential of modern interior decoration. It is distinctly to one s advantage to attempt a production in. tent stitch. Probably it was 1 English tent stitch Mary Stuart learnt- at her mother’s knee in Scotland, 1o encounter later as point de tapisseriei in France. Mary’s taste seems to have run to patterns of interlacing leaves and flowers on a blue ground, with tl-e royal device of the rose, lily and thistle introduced. All these old tapestries had a utilitarian aim. such as Bess of Hardwick’s historic curtains recently on view at the Franco-English Exhibition.

Table covers, bags and hook covers were most popular, as being least ambitious. As furniture became more general there was a regular outcrop of covers for chairs, stools and sofas, with an occasional adventure into the purely decorative, with the quaintest of landscapes as a result, with archaic men, beasts and birds introduced with striking effect.

THE SHORT GIRL.

It is a strange anomaly, but it is so often the case, that the tall girl wishes she were small and petite, while her short sister sighs for slim height. There j is no redress for either of them. I But. indeed, with her dainty hands and feet, neat little figure, and petite charm, the short girl has small cause for dissatisfaction, and if she studies her appearance and type, may easily make the most of what height she po3S^S A DIGNIFIED CARRIAGE. With the aid of a few physical exercises night and morning, lifting her arms above her head, stretching upwards, and walking on tip-too, she ac quires a straight back and dignified carriage, while dancing lessons and frequent practice will lend a pretty grace to her limbs so often denied the lankier tall woman.

An up-and-down striped materia! for a frock cr costume gives height, but any large, conspicuous design or round-and-round striped effect should be esefiewed. A small pattern and a suggestion of lengthy folds has the more desired result. Bunchy clothing, emphasising the hips, is reducing. High heels are, of course, a considerable help to short stature, but the woman anxious to add to hers should choose her footwear carefully, so that she may not look ridiculously tiptilted. If she is wise she will never wear a wide-brimmed hat, if she does not want to look like a large mushroom on a stunted stem. A\ r OID CONTRASTS. A very large fan, a big handbag, a short coatee or jumper, in brilliant colouring cutting up the figure, and excessively abbreviated skirts, are items which accentuate lack of height. If the short woman has occasion to appear on a concert platform, deliver a lecture, or in any capacity step up on to a raised stage, she will realise that a long skirt, trailing draperies, and even a train, are a considerable help in disguising the shortcomings of her sta-

AMERICAN PUMPKIN PIE.

Pumpkin pie ought to be as favourite a sweet in this country as in New England, pumpkins being such an easilygrown vegetable. It is best to bake the pumpkin first for pies. It should be cut into several pieces and placed in a moderate oven to bake until tender, then the pulp is scraped from the shell, mashed and pressed through a sieve. It is now ready for such additions or embellishments as one may prefer. It should be remembered that the finished dessert is essentially a pumpkin product, and that to smother the enticing flavour of the pumpkin itself would-be a distinct mistake. It may be enhanced, however, with such spices as blend harmoniously with it, or with other flavours which tend to intensify and bring out the good home taste. Here is a recipe for an old-time pumpkin pie such as has been served in New England for many years. The pumpkin iff ay be baked, stewed or steamed, as preferred, or one may use canned pumpkin. Whichever is selected. it should be pressed through a sieve to make it quite smooth. Measure equal parts of sifted pumpkin and rich milk; the milk may be preferably half cream, if convenient. To three cupfuls of the mixture, allow one wellbeaten egg, a half cupful of sugar, a quarter teaspoonful of mace, th© same quantity of cinnamon, salt to taste, anad two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Pour into a pan lined with rich pastry and bake, slowly until the filling is firm and the crust an inviting brown. Coo! before se.rvino-