Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17091, 13 July 1923, Page 4

Dresses of the Week

“STELLA ”

Written by

With the approach o,f early spring many prospective brides will 'be finish mg off their trousseaux. The frocks and suits that figure in these outfit are always interesting, particularly at this time of the year when they embody the latest decisions and fashions of the coming season. These nowadays are considerably re duced in number compared with the outfit with which her mother, or certainly her grandmother, would have been provided. And wisely, for fashions change so quickly, and the standa-i of dress is so high, that only provision for a few months, according to *th-* standard of social status and obliga tion, is made. But what trousseau< in this direction have lost in quantity th<\y have gained in quality, "and a bridal outfit, big or small, is now a very charming thing indeed. T>vo or three novel notes will certainly be sounded before we are very much older, providing trousseaux tlvio are to lead rather than to follow fashion, as all good trousseaux should One of these is found in the return of the tiered skirt, whether in its entirety, or confined to panels ox- tunic over parts. The volantes en forme, which pa**c the wav for this arrangement of tier--., will also hold place, while for evening wear similar shaped flounces arranged in petal-form, picot-edged, an 1 superposed throughout the length, of the skirt, which probably will be■ very lightly distend on the hips, should be anticipated. For outdoor wear »n rep, kasha and gabardine, the tiers of the skirt are sometimes finished with the finest row of stitchery in con trasting colour. For instance a three-piece suit of navy blue kasha had its tiers oversewn with beetle-wing green, matching the patterning of the foulard wi ll which its long, plain corsage was made, tiie basque of the little cross-over coat forming apparently the upper tier of the skirt when in wear. This suit was completed with the organdi collar and cuffs that will provide such a pleasing feature of the spring modes. One of the striking novelties of- the season is tho use of soutach so freely and with such liberality that the plain material treated with it has all the appearance of being patterned in lavish and striking manner. This was seen to perfection in a gown, all black, and completely covered with silky soutache in a regular and elaborate design. A girdlo of heavy cut jet gave the only relief to a toilette which showed a verit. :ible triumph of line, no less than pe.--(cut manipulation. Somewhat similar in inspiration is the use ol cire ribbon or soutache in

a lace-like pattern over a contrasting colour. This idea was worked out with marked success in tho case of a froc t of horizon blue rep with v he soutache in faded rose colour. This formed a front panel and deep border to the skirt, having all the appearance of a heavy rose-coloured lace; while the graceful little cape completing the toilette was entirely treated with and lined with the dull, heavy rose, proving a most attractive scheme. Street dresses with cape attachments will be a favourite mode. They are carried out in marocain, the pretty vinglike black drapery which forms such a charming finish to the bodice, harmonising delightfully with the cascade panel frills that adorn many of the day dresses. Those who do not care f 'i* cape attachments will find that they can achieve the same effect by adopting the more youthful mode of the demure Quaker cape collars, which, although they are only glorified capo berthed will form an effective finish to many of the spring toilettes, matching the quaint little coalscuttle hats that will then he in vogue. This charity type »of toilette is exceedingly becoming, especially when carried out in seiteoloured grey and fawn crepe de chine materials, and looks exceedingly pretty for youthful wearers. Note should also be made of the new and softer aspect that hn» been taken on by the jumper blouse. No longer is ’ this the hard, sportsmanlike garment that it was a season or two ago. Jumpers of to-day are made witn ornamental frilled collars, revers, and graceful, wide-open sleeves that have a peculiarly softening effect, and are made in marocain or crepe do chine. One and all alike still favour the open deeolletage. This may be either bateau or square-shaped, the line of the neck being often defined by a light organdi triminmg or collar; while others are made with cape-like collars of their own material edged wfitli soft plisse frilling, and finishing in a Vshaped deeolletage, which gives occasion for tho most fascinating organdi embroidery, or filet modesty fronts. Sleeves continue to bo a decorative and highly important asset of the new fashions. Although one may say that the long sleeve has definitely come into its own for day wear, women have become so accustomed to having their wrists free that., in spite of the fact that long tight-fitting sleeves with gauntlets drooping half-way over the hand finish off in a great many models, the majority of wearers prefer the mortar tis tic type of sleeve that is split up or arranged in such a manner that although in effect it reached to tho

wrist, and often far below, the whole i of the front arm is left bare. For present wear the Shetland wool I blouse or jumper is the nlost popular j of a vast army of worth-while modes. I It is sac, with a hip-line of embroidery j to match the cuffs and neck lines, and, j further, should be worn with an ample j scarf and cap trimmed to match, and j the suit built of tho self-same wool, j or fleecy light-weight make that renders i woollen garments tlio tribute of de j luxe. According to a London scribe, the j long embroidered coat, mostly silk embroideries on black vicuna cloth, is seen | everywhere now, hut only on the wealthy, as it is very costly. Usually j a long strip of material, like a back- J bone, is left bare at. the back, and i gives a curious effect to the coat. Short j embroidered coats are still worn, but j they are very difficult for many women j inclined to embonpoint, ns they increase 1 the round look without improving the { Some of them are one mass of sou- j tache in dizzy mazes', white on black, ! or bronze and yellows on black. Black frocks are still extraordinarily popular, j but now they, too, have succumbed to | parrot colourings and bright embroid- j ories decorate. waistline, form hip ! pockets, appear on -cuffs and little j muslin collars, and generally defy one ! to be sombre. The many dances of late have brought danco frocks to the fore in the world ! of fashion. A charming gown of daffodil yellow silk velvet was made with the fashionable tight, long bodice and full skirt, the corded hem of which lifted to show an underskirt of burnished gold lace. Drapings of la.ee formed the tiny sleeves and the narrow berthe, and the only trimming was a cluster of silk frilling on the skirt. A dress in blush rose satin had a skirt composed of petal panels de- j corated with crystal heads in disc and sunrise effect, and gathered to the scalloped termination of the elongated j waistline. The round deeolletage had ! a skeleton yoke of shaped bands of the satin and the frock was finished with a Hindu girdle of twisted bands of the raa terial. A quaint little frock was made oh early Victorian lines. It was of amber shot taffetas, the fulj skirt bordered with two rows of metallic lace, a single row of lace trimming the IS3O shoulders and berthe simulation. A princess panel, which ran the length of the dress in front, from shoulder to hem, ivas defined by silk cords, and the frock was finished with a large corsage rose in pansy shaded velvet, with a trail of green leaves.