Fashions and Furbelows

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17034, 7 May 1923, Page 4

Fashions and Furbelows

Notes by Special Contributors

CAMOUFLAGED SILHOUETTES.

Evening gowns are verv tight fitting this season. The tall, buxom woman is not badly treated, but the short, and what jused to be tactfully called “ comfortable” figure is rather difficult to

manage. Fortunately the trailing side drapery is a help: or a wing-like drapery may be fastened on one shoulder and float beyond the skirt, giving; an impression of length that the skirt alone cannot produce. Day dresses also have 'very tight underskirts which are often draped with apron panels oj; an entire overskirt. In its lengthened form, the tight skirt is not easy to walk in. and much more comfortable is one with a widened hem—gored or partly pleated. THE VOGUE FOR TUCKS. In the thin, soft materials that are so much used just now. any amount of tucks and knife pleats or frills may lx* worn. A loose panel is sometimes edged all round with a very finely pleated frill of its own material; this is especially suitable for georgette- and all the new silk crepes, but even more solid material such as fine serge, kaisha and moire are pleated. Some of the prettiest afternoon frocks in silk crepe have no trimming at all except tucks, pleats and frills, but they may have s half-length cape of their own material or a short coat. The three-piece frock is shown more than ever, and may he worn morning, noon and afternoon. The coat or cape turn a frock, that in itself would be suitable only for joyous weather, into one that may be worn with comfort and a clear conscience on a doubtful day. r.c. ECONOMISING WITH KNITTED FABRICS. When women, though on fashion bent, yet have a frugal turn, an excellent economy is the purchase, of ; knitted fabrics for their outer clothes. No longei’ is the knitting industry confined to the manufacture of sweaters, neckties and the flimsy silks appropri- 1 oesWullv the domain of dress fabrics j •• n d suitings. V knitted fabric may be produced j I ti one-seventh the time which it takes to weave a goods of equal qual- \ ity. This naturally reduces the cost of r.ianufactnre and the retail price of’ the materials.

Recent inventions applied both to machinery and to the fulling process have resulted in • grades of knitted goods as heavy and compact- as woollen overcoat cloth and which only the expert can distinguish from woven material. Soft silks closely woven are appropriate for dresses and now these are being knitted in the Jacquard designs. An invention, perfected last autumn, has given us for the tirst time knitted materials in patterns. Jersey cloth, tricosham, tricollet-te, matelasse are some of the knitted fabrics available for outer clothing. ORIGINALITY IN INTERIOR DECORATIONS. The fad for what is known as • • period decoration ” is in danger of becoming either a convention or a travesty on that which it attempts to portray, whether- it he Tudor gallevy or Georgian lounge (witii apologies for the Chesterfield sofa!) It has well nigh stopped originality, to say nothing of the ludicrous attempt* of ambitious persons who aspire to emulate the halls ot the mighty. * Rooms run the risk of being mistaken for museums cold convention hems us in, restricting that- freedom of choice oi' object- and material that might beautify and gladden our suiroundings. Certain arrangements ate obvious and have resulted irom experience and convenience, such as the placing of the dining-room table in the middle of the room where the service can be unobstructed : the unused chairs in rows against the walls ; the convenient- sideboard. But even this accustomed rigidity may be relaxed in intimate circles. A delightful home illustrating trie point comes to mind. I remember a round table-—in summer set in the oriel window where cool breer.es brought from the garden the scent of roses and, when the days grew dark and c-hiil, was drawn to the log fire blazing in the open hearth. There was no particular period ”to lire up to. but beauty and design were there. Tall-backed chairs stood in recesses and broader ones for the leisured meal. Polished side tables reflected the blue of Chinese bowls: the deep wine-coloured curtains drawn at night cast shadows on the pale-gold walls. Everywhere was that intimate touch of arrangement combined' with ireedom that made for perfect hospitality. The same freedom followed us into the withdrawing room (to use the original term), where screens judiciously placed broke the monotony of rather a long room, giving the effect of good proportion. Mirrors were hung at the sides of the room, not at the ends, so that when one was seated on a low settee running parallel with the walls the reflection gave the effect of wideness. Furnished sparsely, almost to bareness, but with a few perfectly selected pieces, and with groups of deep-t-oned hangings, draped from the high window levels, the room was restful and dignified. There is no formula, no standard by which to measure the height® and depths of good taste and fitness, but the interiors of our dwellings are a sure and certain delineation of ourselves. Character must tell. It would seem impossible for anyone possessed of talent and charm to form surroundings destitute of reflection of these endowments. Be it mansion or cottage, storeyed dwelling or a single room, in some way shall we individualise our thoughts and tastes in our intimate surroundings. It is not a question of money or circumstance, it is just us ! Our interiors ! AN UMBRELLA WE SHALL ALL WANT. A woman has invented an umbrelh. which is calculated to make every woman say: i: "Why did I never think of it myself?*’ It is a handle and frame upon which tlie cover slips over the ferule, snapping to the frame with a series of fasteners. Thus one may have a cover to suit each costume, without incurring the expense of handle and skeleton. A variety oi covers can be laid in a suitcase, without claiming much space, each adding its touch to the season’s dresses. These umbrellas are not yet- on sale, but as soon as the patent is procured they will be placed with the department stores.