FASHIONLAND.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 10753, 26 April 1913, Page 4

FASHIONLAND.

[From Our Lady Cokbesponw.nt.]

LONDON, March 7. If you would be a very fashionable lady you must incline to the freakish. That was to be expected—the sweet reasonableness of the early weeks of tho year was too good to last- But if you are delt of linger, and recognise that sure boldness that is the cachet of the first-class milliner, it is not really a bit difficult to create a thoroughly fashionable toque at home. At least this stylo of headgear does save you from the pitfalls that brims present to the amateur 1

Some lifctle brim it is best to hare, and chis an upcurled ledge of orinolino oi - mohair of some up-to-date colour, say gazelle, the beautiful deep creamyfawn, the name of which is a stroke of genius. The crown must be round, and on to a buckram shape might be pleated a figured foulard of white or dark ground. Now, judging from trie final effect, you pull all the foulard as tightly as you can through a knot, and then leave" the ends sticking out behind. Even old ladies are to be drawn into the bewildering maelstrom of colour that has descended on the world of dress, and skittish bonnets of pale grey with a couple of rows of pink roses in front and a couple of snowy plumes at the back, and beautiful evening coats of a very long burnous shape, of pale blue and silver brocaded gauze with frills of silver net at- the neck, arc but two ct the things set out for their delectation and temptation. Grey that tempts so many of us by its exquisite sheen and its promise of economy must be avoided by one inclining to stoutness, for it lias a horribly spreading effect. A fair, stoutish girl, with an irreproachable complexion, met at a reception recently, had completely spoiled herself as a girl and did not look a success as a matron, by wearing a gown of beautiful very soft grey corded charmeuse. under a funic of grey, decorated with full-blown, pale pink roses that, though she was tall, made her annear inordinately broad.

The new spring colours are beautiful, ilioiiL'h it mere politeness, n« usual, i,> ca!' siime of them new. Tilleul is like rise lime leaf in early autumn, a golden gr<v«n that looks very well in the new vibhed cloth and in dull silk. Gaaelle has r.lready been alluded to. Rose Chatenay is a delicate shade lighter than rose du barri. very juvenile and bright looking, and appearing at its best in soft eilk trimmed with creamy hiee. Grafton blue is the warm, rich and artistic blue that one sees in delphiniubs. Capri blue is another liapphiniums. CViprin bine is another .happily baptised, for it is just- the blue one meets in Italian waters, even to the lights and shades of that lovely shade. Ibis grey is simply a sort of neutral grey ""that, being hard, would not become very many people, and would, ho very difficult to trim. Sweet lavender is more blue than mauve, but is soft and delicate in tint. Tamarisk is dull green, deeper than reseda, with a suggest ion of blue in it. Violettes des Bcis'is sharp violet with a tinge of red in it.

Tho ruche idea still rules a great deal of the millinery world now that knotted vuclies of a much better description than those of last year can lie got. Here again the craze for brilliant colouring: can be satisfied. One black toque or this week hnd a niche of long emerald ostrich feather with, set at in-

tervals in it. marguerites of an impossible emerald and white consistency, nevertheless very effective. Leal' mounts are new ideas that aro too reminiscent of 1' ronch funeral wreaths to bo regarded, by those who know the latter, as very desirable ornaincuts# The loaves, Inch nio are dull and dyed some very bright colour and mounted on something suit. Bunched effects attract the good dressmakers, and nearly all gowns designed for indoor Hiid roc&ption wo&r have draped skirts, tho fulness being gathered in sometimes with a. buckle of the material at one knee, sometimes rucked right down the centre of the skirt, occasionally beginning halfway down. White linings appear just as often as those that match the material of the coat. All those who like to wear light blouses will be glad to know this.

Silk-embroidered ninon, that is to say. Ninon ornamented as it can be bought now, with large silk flowers worked in filoselle, is as investment not to be made thoughtlessly by tho girl with not overmuch pocket money, for the heavy nature of the embroidery drags the ninon out of shape in a very clumsy fashion. Spiral feathers are novelties in name, but are just plumes twisted like corkscrews 'and towering at one side of a brimless toque. A tatted tunic is one of this week's special efforts, and is more successful than it probably 60unds. This particular one was a very pale grey over soft grey cashmere, was a sort of pinafore from tho corsage to the knees and was designed for a slight petite figure. Violet, in spito of its long run, has not yet exhausted its popularity, and comes fresh into spring fashions. A neat shiny silk braid in violet, outlining black tricorne hats, is both serviceable and effective. Violet feather ruffs certainly have been overdone. Waistcoats, and no feminine dainties but masculine ip cut and almost in shape (wan t of shape!), accompany numbers of the newest coats anil skirts. With these the coats, which are slightly cut. away with flat revel's such as on a man's dress suit, are generally below hip length.