RAMBLINGS IN THE NORTH

Star (Christchurch), Issue 9092, 23 November 1907, Page 3

RAMBLINGS IN THE NORTH

(By A LADY RAMBLER.)

No. IV. East Coast ITorth. of -.."borne.

[All Rights Reserved.]

Up and away and out on to the east coast, where the grand Pacific tumbles 'ever in foaming waves On to stretches of hard, sandy beach, or dashes in stormy breakers at the foot of cliff and headland, I know nothing more exhilarating than to ride along the shore of some beautiful bay. while^-the water sweeps in long ripples around our horses' hoofs and splashes in threatening foam which even flecks our faces as we canter along. Oh, to be young and free, well-mounted and equipped, and riding at a swift canter on the hard, wet sand! Smile not, friends of the oast coast, you who follow the slow sheep the livelong day ; and who creep lazily from point to point, with dogs at heel, scarce checking rein to strike the flickering match and light the festive pipe. iTiave not to drive sheep, and I wv.l venture to canter, or even gallop, if I will, between headland and headland. Nay, I will even shout aloud in my glee, to startle the seagulls and cause them to rise in wheeling, screaming crowds and betake themselves tb the safety of the rolling main. The sunshine is so warm, '.he ocean is so. darkly, beautifully blue, and the horizon line so faint, mysterious and far, uniting of ways and worlds far, far beyond our ken. Yet who would not envy us in our free, sweet, briny solitude? It is said that even \ sheep infected with, shall I say, chest disease, become , strong, healthy animals after inhaling for a time this pure and sweet ozone. Scarcely a sail or a puff of smoke disturbs the stillness and purity of yonder sea; Only the bi-weekly steamers of the Huddart, Parker and Union Companies steal across the seascape on their regular, trips. # I was once present at rather- a comical incident in connection with the passing of a big steamer. A merry, but brainless, youth, one of our picnic party, seeing the steamer in the distance, bethought him to amuse himself by causing the sun to reflect in a bright tin thing which he held. I think it was a milkpan. Thus he made flashlight signals. We were on the top of a high hill, resting almong the fern ; and we made very merry with our milk-pan. Presently we behekf the big steamer swerve from her counse and turn towards the shore; unmistakably she put her bow in our direction. There was fine consternation in our camp. As for the perpetrator of the deed, he gazed awhile in dumb horror at the sight. Then, realising his predicament, he dropped the milk-pan, gav^ one wild, tempestuous yell, and vanished into the bush. It has been said that he has never been seen on that east coast since. As to the rest of our party, we watched anxiously to see what would happen, but, after coming in pretty close and lingering a while, to our relief the big boat turned away and slowly steamed upon her course. Seeing no more signals, it was evidently concluded tuat she was not •really wanted. "The" coast between Poverty Bay and the East Cape is a series of lovely bays and prominent headlands. The land is most excellent sheep country, and is all taken up as sheep runs. We approach the East Coast from Gisborne over several miles of sheltered flat land known as Kaiti, which is now settled with homestead- all the way across. This route cuts off an inaccessible headland, on which the Tuahine lighthouse is situated. The Coast Road is used as the route by which innumerable sheep are driven to the Freezing Works ) at Gisborne, and a great deal of wool also finds it way along this road by drays to the shipping, although much' is also carried in small coastal steamers to the larger^ boats at Gisborne. A movement is just now on foot to provide facilities for freezing at the port of Tolago Bay on the East Coast. The difficulty in the small coastal ports lies in the shipping, as all the rivers have shallow sandy banks and shifting bars. Immense progress has been made on this coast in recent years, and enormous capital has been expended in improving the country. It was practically inaccessible until after the Maori wars, and only in about 1875 did people begin to venture freely up the coast. Then came the sheepowners, who broke in the whole country side. Many, however, broke their own hearts m doing this. There were all the temp; tations of Maori bargainings and Maori leases, with subsequent upsetting of titles, so that many settlers expended fortunes in- vain, and others entered upon their labours. The coast ranges are now covered with grass, and the forest has practically disappeared. There are still consioerable numbers of Maoris to be met, but these have diminished greatly, both in -numbers and in importance, having disposed of or been dispossessed of much of their land. There is no Tailway line along the coast, and travelling is all performed by* riding, by coach, or by trap and bullock dray. A line of coaches regularly plies along the coast.f Travellers meet with some exciting adventures in stormy weather, as the open Pacific beats in without any check. The headlands are rocky prominences, and in fine weather and at low tide there is no difficulty in getting round. Under adverse circumstances, however, it is different, and there are even tales of coaches having been overturned in the waves and # of the wet and weaTy travellers having > to wait for the dawn before pursuing their journey on foot. Roads are cut over the hills, but in a wet winter-time they are sometimes quite impassable. A party, including a judge, native interpreter, solicitors, and all the paraphernalia of the Court-, was caught thus quite recently on a cold wet winter night, which was spent upon the rocks. It is said that the only warm thing was the language that echoed through the night, but the thoughts of the party should rather have been of thankfulness that they were not swept out to sea. Our first halting-place from Gisborne is at an hotel called Tatapouri. It is in a lovely spot, in the shelter of a wooded headland, and is a favourite resort of picnickers and persons who require a change from Gisborne. It will develop one day into a fashionable seaside resort. The next bay is the headquarters of a big sheep station called Turihau, the property of Mr T. N. Williams, who owns a great deal of land on the coast. Another important station further on is at Whangaroa, the property of the Seymour family. Mr Seymour was an Australian capitalist, who spent many years assisting in the development of the Coast, anjl who, had very lengthy and intricate proceedings directed against his Maori lease. There is a large Maori settlement close to the homestead of Whangarei, and a pretty little Maori church. I was present at its dedication by the Bishop of Waiapu some years back, when a great typical

Maori gathering was held to celebrate ..-.e event. Beyond Whangarei we come to Pakarae, which is a hostelry and a regular stopping-place for coast travellers. Another stretch of fifteen miles or more and Tolago Bay is reached. It is a centre of the sheep-farming industry, with hotels, stores and the scattered dwellings of both brown and white.

One need not imagine that the residents lead dull lives in these seemingly out-of-the-way coastal regions. On the contrary, they have some very gay times, and there are many fine homesteads. After shearing, and when there is a lull in pastoral operations,' people give themselves up to gaiety. Balls, re. 36, sports arid polo attract some of the finest social gatherings held in New Zealand.