EASIER CLOTHES.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 8667, 6 July 1906, Page 2

EASIER CLOTHES.

_, — « MALE ATTIRE CHANGING. # COMFORT PREFERRED. "Comfort before appearance" sums up the vast change which is taking place in male attire. Almost without exception the leading London West End tailors, hosiers and hatters are unanimous in stating that, whole but a few years ago nothing but frockcoats, etiff white shirts and top-hate were worn by the well-dressed in Loudon, to-day many of tihe smartest men have adopted the more comfortable' dark lounge suit, soft silk shirts and collars. During the season, im t!he park, and in the West End generally, the black morning coat and top-hat are still, of course, the sign of the well-dressed man ; but, nevertheless, thejre is a large and rapidly increasing number of individuals who wear their "town clothes" leiss frequently than in the past. The chief causes of the changes that are taking place in sartorial affairs •are unquestionably the increase in the week-end "habit," the growing popularity of golf, and the coming of the motor-car. " The whole tendency nowadays in the West End," said the manager of Messrs Hodgkinson the hosiers of Pall Mall Place, "is towards comfort. Our customers dress just as well as ever they did, but they drees with greater comfort to themselves. For instance, nlany of the best-dressed men nowadays — I am not referring to London during the season — wear silk cdllaTS, with either silk, soft-fronted linen, or flannel shirts, while for pure country [wear and for golfing flanne^ collars are very popular. Washing waistcoats are also worn to a great extent to-day. COMFORT WITHOUT WEIGHT, " In ties there is also quite a noticeable change, and the old large heavy silk scarf is rapidly disappearing before tHe attractive and liglit — both colour and texture— crepe de ohine. In eocEs, too, the whole tendency is towards lightness of tone and material." ' { Men undoubtedly wear much more comfortable clothes to-day," remarked the manager at Messrs E. H. Hummel, at 6, Old Bond Street, "than they did six years ago. ' Comfort without weight 3 is the motto of the day.^ The change is, in my opinion, due in no small degree to motoring. " Easier wear is as much an established fact as far as 6hirts, collars and ties are concerned as it is in the matter of underwear and gloves. The thick dogskin has been completely superseded by the eaisy-fitting chamois glove." Mr Tipton, the managing director of Messrs Scott, hatters, of 1, Old Bond Street, had practically the same story to tell. "The wejl-direesed man has not discarded the silk hat, but ibe does not wear it co often as previously, for he goes out of town ed much more." HOW SILK IS TAKING THE PLACE OF LINEN. Hitherto the most uncomfortable item in male attire has been the stiff collar, and it is largely due to reasons of comfort that the eilk collar is so rapidly gaining in popularity. It possesses a distinct over those made of flannel in that it ie cool, being eminently suited for hot weather, while at the same time the eilk collar presents a fairly smart appearance. Silk collars are made chiefly from Japanese silk, which is specially manufactured for the English market in Japan. The price varies between 2s 6d to 4s 6d each. These collars are usually worn with either flannel shirts or 6ilk, batiste, or cambric ehirfes. Even in evening dress the demands of comfort are beginning to be considered, and. some of the best-dressed men can now be seen at the theatre and at the opera wearing soft-fronted shirts. * " A great change has taken place in male attire," said one of the partners of an old-established house in Old Bond Street, "in the last twenty — or even ten — years. There can bo no question that the present generation dresses more slovenly. Why, I remember a time when no one would think of walking about in the West End in anything but dark trousers, frock coat and top hat. Now everything is changed, and although undoubtedly during the season the well-dressed man still weans his tall hat and morning coat, yet it is by no means uncommon to see the younger generation in lounge coats, soft collars and brown or fancy boots. "This slovenliness is all the more remarkable when v one recollecfs that women to-day are much better dressed than they were even ten years ago — a change largely due to the influence of America and France.'