WORK FOR THE WEEK.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 8375, 22 July 1905, Page 2

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

To G-ardenors.

Kitchen Garden. — Seed-sowing must be carried out with the greatest care, especially as the frequent heavy showers keep the surface soil rather too wet for small seeds. Nothing is gained by putting seed in the ground when it is wet and cold, and frequently the gardener blames the losses to bad seed, instead of bad practice and bad judgment. The great fact in raising seedlings (no matter of what kind) is that they give their best results when grown strong from the first without a check; and it is impossible for them to give good results when they have I<o struggle hard "to keep alive in their infancy. This is no theory, but a fact that any observant gardener can prove. Therefore, it is wise not to sow small seeds until the condition of the soil is Buitable. It is much better to be a few days late and have a first-class crop, than a poor, weakly one. Autumn-sown peas are well above the ground, and should receive every encouragement tho gardener can give them to assist growth. Draw a little soil up to the rows, and put some short sprays of yew or macrocarpa, about ten or twelve inches high, along each side, not too close to the plants, but about six inches from tho row on both sides. These short sprays will protect the young peas from frost and cold wind. If nice sprays of macrocarpa are not available, boards placed on both sides of the rows will be a good wind and frost guard. These boards can be held in position with a few short stakes, and removed when the peas are strong enough to do without them.

Hardy Fruits. — General -work should be well advanced in this department, the weather haVing been favourable to outside work. Pruning should have been finished and spraying commenced. This work is much the same- as seedsowing, as climatic conditions must to a large extent govern it. In warm situations spraying should be commenced at once, but in cold gardens it is best left until August is well edvanced. Trees that have been transplanted need careful attention until they have re-established their root system. Apples and pears may bo pruned when transplanted, but all stone fruits should be leit uncut until their buds begin to push out, and signs of active growth are visible. The soil around fruit trees should be kept in a £ough, open condition during the winter and spring months, so that all the '.rains can readily pass through the surface soil. This is impossible if the grdund around fruit trees is left hard and unbroken. Instead of soaking through the surface and depositing fresh supplies of plant food in the soil, the rainwater runs off- to the lowest point, and the roots of the tree are not benefited to the extent they should be. Flower Garden.— lawns that were sown last autumn should be carefully watched during frosty'" weather, and if there are signs of the young grasa plants being lifted, press them back into the soil by putting a rather light roller over the surface. Remember, only a light roller should be used — a heavy one would make the surface so hard that growth would be checked. Established lawns should be rolled, but ear© ehoukl be taken, to select a roller j suitable for the various soils. On a heavy soil use a light roller during the winter ; on lighter soil a heavier one may be used. Another item to be considered is the condition of the turf. .If this is thin, a rather light roller | should bo used, because a heavy one may squeeze the grass plants into the soil too far, and if the surface dries hard further growth is checked, if not prevented. Briefly pat, the grass plants should carry the roller without being pressed into the soil. If there are a few uneven places oil the lawn, sift some soil and spread this on the low places. Leave it rough until, the grass has rooted into it, then put the roller over. Any weeds that can be removed should be taken out as soon' as possible. Greenhouse. — Propagation must be the order from now until a sufficient number of the -different plants are obtained, not only for pot culture, but bedding-out purposes as well. The first question to decide is the number of each kind or variety required,- and work accordingly. Get a plan' of how each bed and Dorder is to be planted, estimate what number each will take, then secure the required number, with just a few over. This is the best system, because the plants for each bed will be uniform, and ready for uee when the sea-son for bedding-out arrives ; and it enables the gardener 'to put out the more hardy subjects directly the weather is suitable, because he knows where each variety has to go. The moat important; point in propagating — no matter whether it is from cuttings or seeds — is an even temperature. Whether the heat is obtained from hotbeds or hot water pipes, there should be a steady, consistent temperature. This is more easily secured by hotwat«r\i pipes than from hot-beds, but if

tho heat has to bo obtained from hotbctls there should be> a succession oi bods prepared, so that when the temperature of ono goes down the cuttings can be immediately transferred to another. Verbenas.- -These give, the best results if raised from so&d every year — seedling plants are more vigorous, and make a better display than plants raised from cuttings. Tho seed should be sown at onco, tin a brisk bottom heat, and directly the seedling plants have their first rough leaf they should", be transferred to a cool-house or framej and grown on slowly. The castor-oil plant, Rioenus, is one of the most effective border plants we have. Sow the seeds at once, as they require along season's growth. It is those varities that need a long season's' growth before they come to maturity that should be sown at once.