AUSTRALIAN SOCIAL NOTES.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 7800, 3 September 1903, Page 4

AUSTRALIAN SOCIAL NOTES.

' A LADY'S LETTER FROM MELBOURNE. In looking round one at the bewildering ar-ray of lovely garments of every sort and description which are displayed before the longing eyes of wonxenkind at this season of the year, the two points that strike one 'as being insisted on just now. are delicacy and elaboration. Gowns which, even look simple are few and far between, but they must redeem their simplteity by exquisite delicacy and daintiness, while as to gowns for "occasions," adornmsnt simply runs riot, and sometimes quite defeats its own ends by an absolute surfeit of decoration, and at a special little show of Paris gowns which was held last week this ovor-abund- , ance of detail was very much in evidence. A fete dress of mushroom pink voile, iot instance, in addition to being inlet in every direction with lace net and ribbon, until hardly a square inch of the original fabric remained intaCt, was further ornamented with tracery in silver and groups of chenille cherries, which give it rather the effect of a Christmas tree. A linen beside it was quite perverted from the ordinary uses of a linen gown. It was trimmed with silk and lace and spotted net and ribbon velvet until a washtub became an object not to be suggested for an instant in, connection with such splendour. These exaggerations, however, are few L and thfj beauties of present-day dress are majiy, and give the woman who loves clothes plenty of choice. Voile and canvas still ihold first place in the making of important gowns, and appear in the faintest shades of colour, principally ivory, grey, or blue. The most beautiful costumes are trimmed) .with quantities of net and lace in every delicate design imaginable ; white silk fringe appears on some gowns, and. * will have a certain amount of favour. Rather barbaric early Victorian revival though it is. Canvas this year is often very coarse, looking like loose sacking, and often of much the same tint. A pretty novelty is coloured tussore silk, which is now to be seen in soft shades of pink, reseda, turquoiss, and sparrow egg blue. These silks ai-e used veiy effectively in -the new gathered gowns, and are such a, happy idea that one wonders why thej' were arvot invented years ago. A gown made of rose-pink tussore, softened with much lace, and having knots and long loops of black velvet ribbon, looked well j while another of sage green, with a skirt gathered at intervals down to the foot, and inlet with lace, would be soft and becoming. In passing, one may remark that all diesses for entertainments are made with trains and all walking costumes are short. There are plenty of these latter sensible garments to choose from, either of linen, flaked summer tweed, or flannel. Linens are mostly made with box-pleated skats and loose, very short pleated boleros, showing some pretty soft blouse beneath... Another dainty fashion is to have hem-stitch-t'i bands of a contrasting colour. A blue linen looks well with a skirt y>ke, narrow tablier and hem-stitched band round tha .foot of white, the Russian blouse done in the same manner. Many of the new linens are also very coarse in texmre, . and

some have the popular flaked effect; those intended to be- a little more ornamental will be trimmed with artistic Russian embroideries, worked on linen bands. Dinner blouses are as elaborate and dainty as ever, cneajm and the palest shade of blue being still the popular colours. Very sweet are the short loose coffee coats, generally concocted of lnre over chiffon and looking the acme of comfort for hot weather. Evening gowns are ail of the filmy order. Exquisite chiffons, hand painted with flowers are to be seen, and crepe de chine is a good deal used. A ball gown in maize colour of this lovely material had a deep folded belt of shaded mauve, and the fantastic hanging sleeves without which no evening dress respects itself just now. White muslin is again in favour for young girls, needless to say made over white glace and elaborated with quantities of lace, but still retaining its spotless and original appearance. .

The hats of the season are simply fairylike, but therje is no doubt that they are all intended for the young person. As one looks round a millliner's show-room one realises that oft-told tale that no one giwws old now-a-days. Anyone feeling even the slightest approach to middle age would seem quite out of it in the midst- of these wide, rustic looking creations, with their garniture of lovely flowers, so evidently only suited to the youngest of faces. Truly, the "noat" hat has followed the bonnet into oblivion* and the only solution is to crown one's head with roses and retire behind the thickest veil allowable. Once for all it may be said that the hats of the season are all large, brilliant in colour; and transparently light in material: Large black hats are also to be seen sometimes, made entirely of folds of tulle, but they should always look as if a puff of wind would blow them away, and tbev should never be touched -with colour. Many crushed Panamas twisted round with a knotted silk scanf are still worn in the morning. OLIVIA.