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WORK FOR THE WEEK.

To Gardeners.

Kitchen Garden. — As the remains of vegetable crops are cleared away tbe ground should be trenched, if possible. This is more important on beavy land than on light, but in any case the bottom soil should only be turned over, not brought to the surface, as is too often done. If not wanted at once it should be thrown up in ridges, to expose as much of the surface ti the weather as possible. All brown leaves should be collected from the brassica family, as they nob only look untidy and smell offensively, bufc are injurious to the crops. A decaying leaf on Brussels sprouts will soon render the buttons quite unfit to eat, especially during wet weather. Protect heads of cauliflower by putting a few leaves over them. These will nob only keep the frosts away, bub will also prevent tb? sun turning the flower brown and making it strong in flavour. Turnips have made wonderful growtb during the last few weeks, and as on rich land there is a danger of their getting too large, the biggest should be taken up and stored for future use. Keep the surface soil disturbed by hoeing when tbe weather* permits. Asparagus beds should be cleaned and put tidy. On light soil the beds may be manured at once, bufc on heavy land ib is better to manure in the spring. A sowing of broad beans may be made on a warm, dry border; Mazagan is the earliest;. Celery. — Hard irosts may be expected at any time now, therefore get all that is well-developed finally moulded up at once, selecting a dry day for the work. Potatoes thafc are still in the ground should be lifted at once. Seakale should be introduced to the mush-room-house or a warm frame to force it, but remember this vegetable requires very little heat — a high temperature will destroy the kale instead of forcing it into growth. Rhubarb will soon be wanted, and preparations should be made for forcing a few roots. Small salad should be raised in boxes, and every necessary attention given t^ lettuce and endive.

Hardy Fruits. — Pruning apples and pears should be pushed forward on every opportunity, and finished, if possible, before the leaves have all fallen. As regards method, it would take too much space to give detailed information as to how to operate on each variety, but the following general principles will serve for most: — Thin out the tree where the branches are crowded, as the tree cannot give good fruifc on branches tbat are so close to each other that tbe sun and air cannot pass through. Remove ali branches which cross or rub against each other, and cut out aU dead or decaying branches. Each branch should be cut back to an eye (or bud) that points in an outward direction. A study of each variety is absolutely necessary, because they have different -habits of growing and bearing, and unless these differences are known the bearing of the tree may be impaired. If possible, the same man should prune the trees every season ; then he can make a study of eadh variety from year to year, and notice the result; of different treatment. All cuts should be made with a keen-edged knife or secateurs^ and if any branches are sawn off tbe saw-cut should be pared off smoothly with a sharp knife — a smooth^ clean cut heals up much quicker thain a rough one. Preparations for planting tbe various kinds of fruit trees should now be completed, either for autumn or spring planting. One of tbeanost important 'items in this matter is drainage, especially on flat, low country, where the soil is apt to get waterlogged during the winter. If no other means exist for draining the soil, throw ifc up in ridges and plant the trees on these ridges, so that their roots will be above the pouit that the subsoil water reaches during tbe winter months.

Greenhouse. — Bulbs. — Many of the bulbs tbat were potted and plunged unde/ ashes will now be well rooted, and the earliest varieties should be removed to a warm sunny frame as soon as possible. They must be shaded wifch a little light material for a few days, until the growth turns green. All the pots tfill nofc be ready to bring out, bufc they all should be examined, because if any are left under the ashes too long, the ends of the foliage will be destroyed. Careful watering will be necessary, and a few pots of the earliest varie* ties should be pufc into a warm frame, to hurry them along. Spiraea Japonica and S. Astilboides should be potted up directly the roots are lifted. Although nob growing, they suffer much harm if lefb in a dry state very long. These plants do nob require very large pots, bub rich soil is a necessity. Stand them in a/ cool frame, and introduce a few plants at a time to tbe forcing-pit. Solomon's Seal. — Although this plant is nob often seen in a pot, it makesa capital forcing subject. Its delicate green and quaint, sweet-scented flowers make ifc a favourite when seen early in the spring months. Another good plant for forcing for decorative purposes is Dielytra spectabilis. Its long racemes of flowers and fernlike foliage make this one of tbe best plants for spring decorations. Winter flowering carnations are jusfc sending up their flower buds, and need careful and constant attention. Plenty of fresh air and a moderate supply of water will keep them in good health.

Tbe Hardy 'Fernery.— Fernfe are beginning to present the usual shabby appearance, as the plants are resting for the winter. The brown fronds should be allowed to remain as long as possible,. -as their removal robs the plants' of their natural protection against severe frosts. The hardy fernery cannot be kept according to the laws of tidiness during the months of May and June, as the decaying fronds not only afford some protection from severe frost, bufc are of service to tbe crowns until the new set of fronds begin to grow, in the spring. This is a good time to give the surface a mulch of fresh compost, consisting of peat, leaf mould and rotted turf.

Some day someone will, perhaps, write the story of the making of tbe Simplon Tunnel under the Alps. The recital of the difficulties experienced and overcome would make a story full of deepest interest. Not the ''least of them was the leakage of water into- the workings, which, after coming 6000 ft from the top of the mountain, through the limestone, ivas so hot as to make the temperature of the tunnel unbearable, often as liigh as 140 deg. Fabr. No less than 4000 men work in the tunnel itself, and over 6000 more on the Italiap. section of tho line.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/TS19030509.2.11

Bibliographic details

Star (Christchurch), Issue 7701, 9 May 1903, Page 2

Word Count
1,151

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Star (Christchurch), Issue 7701, 9 May 1903, Page 2

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Star (Christchurch), Issue 7701, 9 May 1903, Page 2

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