FRILLS OF FASHION.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 5838, 3 April 1897, Page 3

FRILLS OF FASHION.

Among tho neAvest hats are those with moderately high crowns and straight brims almost sailor shape. They aro made on frames covered with velvet or vory fine embroidered broadcloth. Tho trimming is of ruches of velvet or ribbon, or a scarf of .velvet Avith a profusion of' ostrich tips. A hat of braided felt is in a modified sailor shape. The rather wide brim is rolled up all around, ' and the upper side almost covered by fans and rnchings of plaited and crimped silk. Wide quill feathers stand straight up from the immediate front, and a row of velvet roses is set close up against tho hair underneath the brim. Very large hats of tan-coloured felt are trimmed with a profusion of black plumes aud black A r elvct ribbon. A very large hat of tan felt has a brim of silvery beaver and trimming of Indian-red velvet and A'olvefc autumn loaves. A novelty costume is mado of garnet velvet. It is cut in princesso shape, and has a most unique and stylish arrangement at the front of tho Avaist. A yoke of shirred satin extends below the bust. The front breadth cf the skirt has an extension Avhich overlaps the yoke and fastens at either side with jowolled ornaments. The sides of this extension aro curved away under the arms, and at ono side there are invisible fastenings, so that in the front of the dress no closing appears. Tho sleeves are close-fitting, with deep cape-shaped sections falling from the shoulders. There is a high collar of black satin, also black satin cuffs. The neAV styles in petticoats are beAvilderingly pretty; better still, they are eminently sensible in material and cut. Silk is the favourite material, and as there never Avas a time when silk could bo bought so cheap, it is quite possible, even for tho Avoman who has to consult economy, to have one. A lovely gown of shimmering grey satin in tho trousseau of an autumn bride is made with a seA r ev-gored skirt, exceedingly full at the back. This elegant skirt is untrimmed, but lined throughout Avith rose-coloured taffeta silk. The bodice has a ceinture of grey velvet, a bolero to match, lined with rose-satin and trimmed Avith frosted pearl and cut steel passementeries. The half-A r est reaches from the throat to the top of the ceinture, and is mado of grey chiffon OA r er rose satin. Soft-surfaced camel's hair fabrics are universally liked, and are among the most reliable materials for good black dresses. There are many grades, but those with long, glossy hairs and a shaggy surface are best liked. But the queen of all fabrics of this character is a Priestly silk-ivrap ■camel's hair that is as fine, soft and flexible as the most delicate kid. It is durable, too, and another advantage is that Avhile there is a scrap of it left it is handsome and available, as it is always possible to match it, the goods being a standard make and quality. Heavy double faced drap d'etc is a J popular material, and comes in colours as well as black. Its soft, fine firm texture makes it extra desirable for full costumes as well as separate skirts. Ladies' cloth and tho finer, closer Avoven broadcloth I are in demand for tailor dresses and for skirts as well. The variety in the- heavier dress material and in cloths is surprising. They are shown by scores, and include suitings, serges, camel's hair, and homespuns, Avith many novelty weaA r es, and not j a few figured and fancy textiles. I Smooth cloths are made up Avith a great deal of braid, put on either of fine soutache, Avhich is sewed at one edge and allowed to stand up, or of tho Avider flat sorts that may be made into trellises or fancy patterns or put on in plain rows. Braiding is a sort of ornamentatiou that can be so easily done at home that it rarely stays in favour. It gets so common that tho eye tires of it, and then it drops altogether out of the fashionable Avear. Braiding of Avide, handsome braids or of moire vel\-et or satin ribbon is much liked for the finer fabrics that are made into tailor costumes. Bright red blouses are fashionable and becoming to brunettes. They are specially pretty for dull and gloomy Aveather, and Avhen worn Avith black skirts make very serviceable and practical costumes. The brightest of them may be somewhat subdued by full fronts of lace mixed with black velvet ribbon.