WORK FOR THE WEEK.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 5698, 17 October 1896, Page 2

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

TO GARDENERS. Kitchen Garden. — Continue planting potatoes. There is no vegetable so generally useful as the potato, and it seems a pity thab many of the best exhibition kinds <mt such, a poor figure when the test of cooking is applied. On heavy land in cold, damp districts it is best to plant on the surface and drew the soil in a ridge over the sets, and instead of manuring with yard manure, do more with artificials. Superphosphate and muriate of potash ininixture are better than either used separately, but in the application of artificial manures the character of the soil must be considered, and to a certain extent, at any rate, everyone has to find out what is best for his own land by direct experiment. Sow leeks for late use, and transplant in well manured trenches those raised in heat. Make new plantations of Globe artichokes ; select strong offsets from the old stools and plant 4ft apart each way in well prepared land. If the plants are strong, a few heads will be obtained in the autumn. A light summer crop of some kind may be obtained from the land between the rows the first season. Sow Walcheren and Veiteh's autumn giant cauliflowers, and plant out a good breadth of cauliflowers and cabbages. • Sow peas fortnightly. Isolate the rows as much as possible, and ns crowded i lauts cannot thrive, .it is best to plant thinly in the drills. Ail large seeds may with advantage bo planted deeper now than was advisable early in the season. Sow seeds of vegetable marrows in a warm frame. Prepare trenches for.celery. Sow successional crops of turnips, radishes, carrots, lettuces, mustard and cress, &c. A little artificial manure sown in the drills with the seeds (about four or five pounds per rod) will bo beneficial, especially to turnips. Flower Garden. — Give liquid manure to roses on a north wall ; it is a dry, hot position, and a thorough soaking now will enrich the soil and strengthen the growth and blossoms. A mulch of short manure placed over tho roots after the watering, and a little earth scattered over it to make the border look more presentable, will prevent the birds scattering it about when the dry weather conies. Finish planting hardy edging plants, and give the finishing touches to the beds and leave them to settle a little before the summer bedders go out. Where any system of double cropping is carried on it is necessary to. be prepared with a heap of compost to apply a heavy top dressing when the spring flowers come off. It is a good plan to save some of the charred material from the rubbish-heap and dress heavily with it. The plants like it, aid the roots get established immediately. Without something of this kind the summer display may be poor. Thin early-sown annuals as soon as they are largp enough to handle. It may not be advisable to thin out to the full distance at first, but open them out to let in the air amongst them; the singling may be done later. All annuals Will transplant if ordinary care be used. Aiittle shade is beneficial if the weather should be dry. A few small sprays of evergreens placed 'amongst them will be sufficient. Tender annuals sown in heat will require pricking off before they become crowded ;

boxes will be found the most useful for this purpose. A little warmth for two or three days', just to set tho root 1 ; into work, ■will hoi)) them. ftorwii-vds they will do bett vhi cold frames. Cuttings of coleus, alteruantherasand iresines may yet be taken, and planted in a warm frame. The herbaceous borders will now be gay with many things, the different varieties of aubrietias grown in patches are very striking and beautiful. Corydalis, Iceland poppies, anemone Appennina, Sylvestris, coronaria, coronaria St ifrigidandfulgens, omphalodes verna are all useful plants, and help very materially to adorn the garden. Scillas, tulips, polyanthus and auriculas are also very gay at present, and no garden is perfect without them. Lilium Thonisonianum is doing remarkably well this season, and the bloom is very attractive. Place stakes to carnations early, and tie the rising flower stems loosely to allow plenty, of room for growth. September, October and November are the months during which the majority of camellias make their growth and form their bloom buds, and the more luxuriant and substantial we can make these growths now, the greater in both quantity and size will the blooms be. A proper condition of the roots is one of the main promoters of success, without which other attention will prove unavailing. To have camellia plants in the fittest condition it is necessary to look to their roots at the outset, and then, by proper attention afterwards, success will be ensured. There is no hard-wooded plant which will stand watering at the root more freely than the camellia, and where the drainage is in good order, water should be a]3plied unstintingly. Whether in pots or planted out, dryness at the roots, or in the atmosphere, is an evil of the greatest magnitude. The soil in which camellias luxuriate is never really dry at any time, but it should be extra wet during the growing season, and it would be satisfactory if the leaves could be kept wet night and day at this time. Ripening of the wood is of the utmost importance, and too much attention cannot.be given to this, as imperfectly opened flowers and buds droppring prematurely are some of the results of dealing with unripe wood. There is nothing more satisfactory than sturdy growths produced in the full heat of the sun, and with plenty of clean water at the roots. With the latter in proper order there is nothing to fear. The earliest wood, as a rule, will give the earliest blooms. When once the bloom buds have been formed syringing should cease, and more air should be given, but nothing like a dry state of the roots should follow.