Fashions Up-to-Date.

Observer, Volume XL, Issue 27, 6 March 1920, Page 31

Fashions Up-to-Date.

CONTRADICTIONS IN DRESS.

[Bt Dolobes.]

WJEEAT on earth are you putting a veil on for?" The speaker stared disapprovingly at her sister, who was just tying on a quiet, becoming veil preparatory to going out for a walk. "Why, because it v suits me. I think veils are so becoming to the skin." "So they are, but a veil is out of place with that hat you're wearing." "Out of place. How do you mean?" "Well, a velvet 'tammy' is what I call a 'flapper' item of dress, and with 'flapper' oufits, veils are quite out of the picture. , It's nearly as bad as wearing a high linen collar with a georgette blouse." * * * Contradictions in dress such as this are oSten to be seen. Girls forget that to other people it is the whole effect of their attire that is apparent. Each detail in itself may be quite pretty and becoming, but if these - details, do not help to produce a harmonious effect, the result is completely spoilt. ■ • » In this connection, short skirts are a snare to a great many girls and older women. They forget to study the whole effect produced. They know that a short skirt shows off a pretty ankle and foot, but when they come to adorn the upper part of their figures, they completely ignore the fact that a short skirt has a youthful look, and they either wear a wrong kind of hat or they do their hair too severely, or perhaps they completely overlook the fact that they have a well-de-veloped figure, which under no conditions whatever will "come into line" with a very youthful appearance.

Then there are other mistakes that girls make in this connection. To take one instance, what a number of them pin on a more or less "fancy" collar to a rather heavy out-door coat.

This mistake has arisen, I think, because so many people feel conscious of the unbecoming effect of the dark cloth against the neck when a low-collared blouse is worn beneath. To take off this bareness and lighten up their appearance they try on a little white collar, and in itself it answers the purpose, that is, it produces a more becoming effect just at the neck.

But, again, it is "out of the picture." It just spoils the harmony of the wearer's appearance. There can be no justifiable connection in dress between a heavy cloth coat and a daintily light decoration such as a fine lawn, or other dressy collar.

This question of harmony in drees is worth studying. If more girls made a study of it, there would not be so many otherwise pretty outfi s entirely spoilt by lack of judgment. Remember, it is the whole effect— as the French call it, the tout ensemble—that makes or mars the success of your appearance, as I have said before.

A wrong touch of colour will just ruin an otherwise well-thought-out scheme. I remember once sitting opposite a well-dressed girl in the tube whose appearance would have been faultless had she omitted a bright touch of orange in her hat which clashed horribly with the blouse she was wearing.

Shoe* and stockings are immensely important items as regards the general effect of one's clothes. How often it sets one's teeth on edge to see them worn with costumes with which they do not "go." Whenever possible the shoe and. stocking should match the costume, but even

the girl who cannot afford to have a big stock of them can avoid the pitfalls of violent contrasts, and ugly colour schemes. Jewellery, too comes into this question, for it can make or mar the general effect in a most noticeable way, especially when it consists of vividly coloured gems, such as rubies, emeralds, or turquoises. ® ® ® How to Make the New "Liberty " Cap. The dainty little model shown in the sketch is one of the favourite hats, of the season, and is popularly known as the "Liberty" cap. Almost any kind of material is suitable for it" from cloth, jersey cloth, knitted or crocheted wool, to stamped velvet and brocades. Our artist has chosen the latter, and suggests a garniture of beads round the brim, and a beaded tassel. Scraps of silk, velvet, etc., which make exquisite

You can easily make your own foundation for this hat. Cut a piece of buckram on the cross from 3i to 4 inches (Fig 1) deep, and fold one end over the other till the circle thus formed fits your head comfortably—not too tightly, as the covering and lining will make it rather smaller. Sew the ends firmly, then wire each edge with round wire, using a coarse buttonhole stitch. Now bind each edge with a crossway strip of any thin material. Cut a bias strip of material 2 inches deeper than the buckram band. Stretch this over it and join the ends neatly at the side*; then lightly gum down the raw edges of material on the inside of the band.

Now for the crown. First cut the pattern out in tissue paper. It should be like Fig. 2 in shape, the measurement from A to B being sufficient to go round the buckram band, and that from C to D aboiit 18 inches. Pin this up, try on the band, and make necessary alterations. Then cut oiit in soft coarse muslin and material, with J-inch turnings all round. Lay muslin and material together, stitch the sides together, and sew the bottom edge to the inside of the band, making a tiny stitch outside and a long stitch inside. Arrange for the join to meet the join of the band. Sew on the beads and set in the headlining—a straight strip of thin silk, with the .top lightly. gathered ' to leave an open circle. Sew a tassel to the point of the crown. Arrange the >end over the band and stitch into place. If buying new material, t-yard 27-inches wide will be needed.

Household Hints. To keep a sponge clean and to prevent it from becoming sticky, it is a good idea to wash it occasionally in vinegar and warm water, and then dry it in the open air. * * * Stair carpets will last twice as long if two or three layers of news* paper or strips of felt are placed beneath them before they are fastened down. * * * Tea-trays, or japanned goods, should never be washed in boiling water as it cracks the varnish. Warm water and soap is the best thing to use, and they should be washed with a soft sponge.

GOOD IDEAS

Good Furniture Polish. ' A splendid and economical polish is made by mixing equal amounts of linseed oil, turpentine, and methylated spirit. Bottle, and shake wall each time before use. «• • « Fine Sand for Scrubbing. Silver sand will save soap if used on the scrubbing brush, and give a very clean, white look to wooden floors and tables. * * * To Whiten Kitchen Tables, Floors, Ett. Half a pound of soft soap, haU a pound of fuller's earth, half a pound of soda, one quart of water. Boil all together until reduced to half the quantity. Apply on the scrub-bing-brush. Wash, off as usual. * *• « To Remove Rust from Steel. If rust has been allowed to remain on the steel for some time, this is the easiest method of removing. Hub with fine emery-paper sprinkled with paraffin. Rub oneway only, or scratches on the steel will be the result. * * • To Dye White Curtains. You will find that white curtaju.s will dye splendidly by dipping thf.m, after washing and drying, in cold water to which tea or coffee lias been added, in proportion to the deepness of the shade required. It is always as well to test the strength on an odd piece of lace. By ironaig while the curtains are damp in excellent and most pleasing result is obtained. * * * To Wash Tussore. This material must be washed by squeezing only in warm, soapy water. When clean, rinse in warm, clear water, squeeze out the water and hang to dry. Do not iron until the material is quite dry. Use a hot iron and work quickly on the right side. This will bring out the natural gloss of the silk. * * • To Ckean Stained Marble. Stained marble can be cleaned witfh the following: Two ounces ; of washing soap, one ounce of precipitated whitening, one ounce of pu-mice-stone powder. Pound together, moisten, with boiling water till of the consistency of cream. Apply this mixture to the marble with a Leave it' tfll quite dry, then wash off with hot water. Dry and polish well. The mixture must be kept in a well-corked bottle.