Fashions Up-to-date

Observer, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 6, 13 October 1917, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date

By Myra.

WE are now beginning to turn disdainful eyes upon the garments of winter, and to long for the flimsier things, the gayer colourings, the very atmosphere of happiness that seems to surround the clothes designed for the summery days.

For these one or two guiding rules are more or less plainly indicated—namely, the general tendency to a straighter line, the somewhat narrower skirt, and much favour for the short, full coat. None of these things are hard of attainment fortunately, though all require careful handling to meet with real success, especially as any weakness with regard to these main points cannot be disguised by an elaboration of detail and attendant fripperies, as simplicity is very much the craze of the moment.

These charming materials have lost none of their former hold on the public fancy, though they are now utilised under rather different conditions, instance, they have found quite a new lease of life as trimming factors merely, appearing in the form of deep, graceful collars to shantung frocks, with a hint of repetition at cuffs or belt.

Another opportunity for this same fabric is presented by the loose garment that under the name of sports coat remains apparently as an indisputable necessity of the dress repertoire. And very charming it can be, too, in perhaps poppy-red or apple-green foulard, with collar ,and cuffs of heavy white linen to match f.T><* skirt; or in a pale pinkyamethyst with the skirt emphasising the rosier-tint. As a medium for afternoon dress, foulard has also special attractions, and can be as well employed for the simpler designs as for those that lean to the draped graces now in vogue, whilst its po-

wer of alliance with heavier materials, such as satins, wag triumphantly demonstrated last year, and is likely to continue its successes this season.

The fcotton voiles of the past have also taken unto themselves quite a variety of new nomenclatures and are like-wise under the spell of diverse patternings. At the moment indeed it would seem as if plain materials will have quite a fight for it to retain any assured position in the scheme for things, so general is the tendency towards variation of some sort. A favourite arrangement is an open checking line of white upon a coloured ground, and with a slightly corded effect, this device, almost imperceptible at a little distance, being brought more definitely to the notice by an occasional broad bar of white or an intersecting line in contrasting hue.

Flowers remain still as the favourite method of introducing a secondary tint or emphasising that origin<ally employed, but instead of bouquets, one finds now the single blossom more often in evidence, whilst a wider distance than of yore separates one flower from another. For those, too, who turn a cold eye upon these floral emblems, the Fates have also been kind in providing the numerous tribe of sports.

No matter how near the bereavement the period of mourning-wear-ing nowadays depends largely on invidual conditions. Not only that, the depth of the mourning worn is usually determined) by special circumstances. Any degree of seclusion, for instance, is quite impossible for those who are obliged to carry on important work just the same, or probably in consequence of their loss, and all element of orthodoxy of period is fast departing, even from widows' mourning.

A crepe de chine frock cut in jumper style, suitable for a young widow, seen recently, had dead white collar, cuffs, and tiny vest of georgette. Equally graceful and simple was an indoor dress of georgette, trimmed with narrow bands of crape, with Avhich was worn a simple hemstitched collar of white crepe georgette.