Fashions Up-to-date

Observer, Volume XXXVII, Issue 49, 11 August 1917, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date

By Myra,

VERY conspicuous among the new. models for spring and summer is the barrel skirt. Sometimes the barrel effect is a matter of cut, the shaping of gores. It is this way we see it in. the tailored skirt. Then, again, it is drapery that gives the added width, or a cuff band. Big draped pockets at the side seams are used not only to accentuate the barrel line, but to intro_ duoe "a peg-top suggestion, and it is this latter suggestion that will divide honours with the straight-line gown.

The new peg-top skirts are not like the original of this type worn some iseastans agio, which were so full and clumsy at the top and so scant and uncomfortable at the bottom that it was hard to walk in them. This new skirt is more the peg-top suggestion.

The effect is produced in mamy ways—sometimes by the fullness at the waist-line, or deep soft plaits. The Avaist is long and straight, and the skirt joined to it with gathers, Avhile below large embroidered pockets are draped at the sides, giving the peg-top effect.

But the barrel skirt, and the many peg-top suggestions in skirts and dresses are by no means all that La Mode, has to offer. There is, for instance, the skirt of very simple type. This is generally gathered at the waist-line, or laid in plaits, and then hangs perfectly straight. Then there are draped costumes, too, as Avell as straight costumes in many A'ariations.

Don't think, though, because you haven't a barrel or peg-top skirt in your possession you're absolutely out-of-date. There are just as many plain full skirts, so that people can wear last year's costumes and be smartly economical.

Anyone with a few moments at her disposal and a disposition for ma Hug millinery, can renov ive a last year's hat or toque, and one of the ways of doing-so'is to take the transparent crown of Jast. : year and

sew round it a wreath of satin petals, one overlapping; the other. It is a very simple idea, but the effect is most pleasing.

The Russian blouse in mastic and putty shades, and also Uie wide sac coat of light colouring, will be worn over dark-.skirts, and a very smartly cut skirt for this purpose has a full back almost in pleats and a neatly plain front. These separate skirts in serge and gab suiting are very much stitched and not a few have long pocket flaps at the side, these adorned with buttons and stitching.

There are fascinating little pelerines and capes of mariabbut to Avear with the coat-frocks, and large collars which can be worn high and close or laid flat oA r er the shoulders. The taffetas coat-frock is charming for spring wear, but coloured serge and gab suitings are modish now.

These are of artificial silk, and, are shown in short colourings with the fashionable large square, collar and deep cuffs in stripes of the two shades, or some have a self collar with much stitching. On some coats •and bodices, a braided plastron is introduced,, and the laa-ge sailor collar tapers off to the waist on either side.

Pockets are not so outwardly prevalent as they were, but they are added to coats just as the wearers require them—inside as Avell as slung upon the belt, or •beneath the cuff, the last a convenience for carrying pence or a ticket. A single pocket— large and roomy—slung on to the at the right side is a feature of t)he spring one-piece frock. Some of these pockets are A-eritable sacks, regular hold-alls! And yet they look very attractive. In. some cases these single pockets are made of supple leather to match the-belt on Avhich they are slung,, and their novelty makes the plainest one-piece frock look original. But this fashion, like all others, is not an arbitrary one, any more than the new vogue for the cloche hat, though it. too, is wel worth noticing on account of its charm and simplicity