Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 51, 28 August 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Myra.

SKIRTS' will be short, full, and flaring. With these skirts will be worn short coatees, or bolero coats of many different designs. The bare arms of last summer are now, in most cases, hidden; fashion having introduced "the cult of the long sleeve." The decollete neck has disappeared. Spring frocks show endles designs in collars, but they all tend to cover up the neck, except just beneath the chin, where the V-shaped opening is still shown.

Plain, full skirts, gathered at the waist, and falling iim loose simple lines, will be much employed for washing materials, and other light fabrics which will sooner or later find the way to the wash tub. For more expensive materials such as taffetas, the three-tier skirt will be most "chic." These tiers are corded and piped to stand out smartly. On some models the edges are scalloped with a flower-like finish, which is most effective on. a tall, slight figure. Another quaint finishing may be made in the following way for a short, full skirt in, soft taffetas:— The material at the hem is cut into about ten very wide, deep scallops. The edge of the scallops is outlined closely with three rows of closely kilted silk frilling about Uin wide. Each frill hangs one below the other.

For embroidered goods three plain flounces of embroidery will be used, but the embroidery may also be arranged as a single-full skirt. * .* *

Dame Fashion wishes for pockets, and pocket® she has! Large pockets, small pockets ,useful and useless pockets. Some of the new model frocks ishow ail arrangement on either side of the skirt which resembles most enlarged trouser pockets. These are certainly of the useless kind as anything placed therein weighing heavier than a gossamer handkerchief Would certainly pull the pocket hopelessly out of shape. Tiny pockets also appear in the breast of bolero coatees, or cut slantwise and braid-bound, show on either side of the hip yoke on the new skirts.

The full skirt, to hang properly, must have the petticoat, therefore petticoats of all descriptions have returned!; from the most elaborate creation of crepe de chine and handmade lace to the white petticoat with a plain scalloped hem. This latter garment shows sometimes below the dress, so eager is fashion to show that the genuine article has returned. Many of the newest petticoats have two, or even three flounces, alll thickly gathered or pleated, so that the skirt above them may hang correctly.

With the revival of picturesque gowns and coatees, there will be another revival which will be welcomed by many women. It is that of the picture bat, made of either velvet, straw, or satin. Of late, those who follow in the wake of fashion have been so ocupied in trying to look smart that there has been no inclination for the style of drees known as picturesque. There has been little opportunity for any display of either originality #or good taste. Things' are changing now, and we are going to welcome a period of esentially feminine fashions. Once again pretty faces will be framed in hats which would have pleased the old masters. We shall, of course, see many small hats and straw toques, which are especially becoming in the "tout ensemble" of the new silhouette. We see, therefore, that hats may be either large or small, so that each one may suit her own individual fancy without in any way outraging fashion.

Unless I am much mistaken, parasoils will again become a vogue. They suit the styles. They were the inseparable outdoor companion of the early Victorian girl, and her sister of to-day is sure to take kindly to a fashion that harmonises with climatic conditions.

The white petticoat with bordering frill of embroidery is coming back.

A tiinv silver rose fastened in the coat lapel is the latest of Dame Fashion's fancies. Fruit and flowers are also worn in a similar way.

High boots, whether black or 00lThey are usually laced, but some oured, are very much in favour, smart examples are seen buttoned.

Some of the newest are laced at the back. * * * The leading feature' in footwear are lightly turned soles, long slender lines and colours, as contrasted with black or white. * * * Shoes match the costume, especially in plain twilled cloths, suede leather, and' brooadedl stuff's, with patent vamps. Very smart is the white kid shoe set off with black in f|ve binding, a jpoupl© of buttons, and the heel.

High boots in tan Rusian calf combined with white buckskin and white pearl buttons, are very effective.

A long vamp is the feature of the sandal, with two ornamented twobuttoned straps.

A high buttoned sandal in white kid with mock Avelt, Louis heel, and pearl buttons, is a favourite type. * * *

What the Americans call "outing" shoes combine smartness with comfort. They are made on broad lines that give play to every separate toe.

The popular golf and walking boot has a soft surface like ooze calf, but is very strong and firm.

The sole of the new tennis shoe is made of Spanish felt, which is lighter than rubber, and holds better on grassy courts. The shoe is white buckskin, with bevel heel.

There is a distinct advantage in having a good supply of lace corset covers to wear under but one handsome net blouse. Each corset

cover can be of different colour threaded with sribbooisi to correspond, which, would then, have the effect of a fresh blouse at every wearing. * * * For evening or theatre wear rather coarse silken tulle gowns are favoured; they have two or three high flounces on the skirt bordered with bias folds of satin or soft moire over satin foundations, and on the corsage a note of jet trimming here and there.

Very attractive, too, for evening wear, are soft white and black materials either flowered or striped especially those in silken gauze.

In black or white, or white on black, some materials are embroidered, with silken flowers in charming designs, which are very tasteful and lovely.

The deeply sjoa-Uioped skirt hem bouiiid with black military braid, and the coat to the hips finishing in the same way are features of a favourite style.

Considerable variety will be given to silk dresses. Some will be quite simple but decidedly picturesque affaire of flowered taffetas fastened in front and ornamented there by a double row of buttonsi. Or, there will be two or three litle ruchings of pinked out or corded silk encircling the skirt, or the full skirt may be cut out in scallops and piped with satin.