Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 20, 23 January 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Mxra,

AS a prelude to the skirts which it is said we are to wear in th© autumn, five yards in circumference, and still growing, the plaited skirts and those that are much flounced are the ones worn at the moment. The majority of the former are made with extremely narrow plaits, and these are pressed so flat they can scarcely be seen to move away from the figure. Once in so often these plaits have to be renewed—that is, well pressed l by some tailor —but this need not happen oftener than once a, month approximately, so that this i 6 not of much consequence. Occasionally these plaits fall over an underskirt that is plain and narrow, in which case they take on the effect of a long tunic, but more and more they are seen forming the entire skirt, hanging in a straight line from the waist down. All have some pretence of drapery, such as a short tunic or a sash that is draped low and' tied in a huge bow in the back, and they are also being greatly used wfith ouirfass bodices, which day by day are growing in favour. • • • The one-piece frock is still with us in all manner of charming forms. Dame Fashion has decreed that long-waisted' effects shall be worn this autumn. The corsages are very long and loose, often buttoned down in front in imitation of the Victorian boned bodice, only without the bones, and, therefore, wrinkledi This wrinkled appearance has a quaint dowdimess that is really exceedingly smart, contradictory though it may sound. A kilted tunic, nearly down to the ankles, is apparently held in, place just above the hips by a low Persian belt or a softly-swathed sash. Some of the new afternoon frocks show the waistcoat effects that were so popular during the summer. Over a chif-

fon bodice a loose waistcoat of striped velvet with, long points in front will be seen, giving rather the effect of a man in his shirt sleeves. The afternoon gown, by the way, has assumed a greater importance than ever, for nowadays they often have to do dtuty for the evening, too. Women have neither time nor inclination to change their dresses so many times as they used, and few evening (frocks are* being ordered jusit at present, hence this merging of the modes and the evolution of the allied afternoon and evening garment. The tentative attempts at the long bodice have been much more successful than could have been imagined. It is not nearly so trying a style as people believed it would be; indeed', the rather large waist, showing an unbroken Idnie at the back, as more suitable to a short or even moderately tali woman than almost any other, especially if she be not too stout. The sash, on such costumes', is invariably taken, from the sides, rather high', and crossing in front, is allowed to drop down, knotted in a low V-shaped line, which As quite exceptionally good, giving a fictitious effect of slinmess quite remarkable. More and more is it to be noticedl that the very newest ©ashes do not encircle the waist, 'but start from the sides, leaving the back quite plain. Sometimes they are simply drawn across and knotted in front, hanging very low, or else (especially in the case of a soft sash) they are crossed in front, taken round to the back, and knotted there almost as low as the knees. • * • In, the matter of skirts we are strangely conservative. The narrow appearance is religiously conserved, although gradually pleats and folds have been permitted that allow us a little more freedom of movement. Such indulgences have been carefully concealed by the skill of the dressmaker. am ■ • There is one exception—the long pleated' tunic over an extremely narrow foundation gives an impression of width which the rash wearer who attempts an energetic stridie will find is strangely illusive. Truly such a skirt has more of an Eastern trouser effect than many of the freakish harem dresses. * « • For the rest, there are many ways of surreptitiously introducing fulness into skirts, from the extra drapings, which are easily manipulated in soft materials, to the smart Parisia side flares, which are stitched at the side of the knees, leaving the front and back widths of the skirt perfectly straight and plain. • • • Contrasts in material are usually very pretty and they can be brought in nicely in the forms of vests or guipures. The new fashions, by the way, lend themselves to an entirely novel idea. The upper part of the waist and sleeves may be made of one colour, and the lower in a tone to match the skirt. To give harmony, it is advisable that some touches of the darker colour be used to finish off the sleeves. ■ • ■ In the new fashions sleeves are assumling. special' importance— long, set well in the armhole, and falling over the hand. Bishop sleeves gathered into a wristband have a great following; some are still cut on the kimono plan. The French capital, with all its disadvantages of this terrible year, holds still the power of indicating the fashions of the hour. The variety of styles on sleeves, as well as skirts, cannot be gainsaid. The Louis XIV. coat revived shows the sleeves of that period. Distinct sleeves from the dress have no' following, though the plain-coloured] tunics are worn over checked skirts. In everything there is a touch of the Oriental, especially as regards the size of the waist. Black will be sure to be worn a good deal for evening and day wear, in the former combined with white tulle. History is reflected m fashions, so the sombre element must assert itself in the modes of the hour and there is more dignity apparent than the freakdness from which we have been suffering. !