FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 348, 8 August 1885, Page 6

FASHION NOTES.

On page 20 will be found some very stylish, dresses — No. 1 shows a very lovely little dress of cream crepe, de Chine over a satin skirt, with a remarkably pretty satin sash. The bodice is not too low, but just low enough, and gives fulness and shape to an unformed figure by the very pretty disposition of its folds, which are secured on one shoulder by a beautiful pearl ornament, while the plainly hemmed end falls over on the other shoulder, looking very neat and simple. No. 2 is a very recherche walkingdress of brown canvas, trimmed with dark brown velvet en chevron on the vest and sleeves. The vest is finished off at the waist by a few folds cleverly arranged to look like a sash, but in reality they do not go round the waist, for that would increase its apparent size, and take from the graceful appearance of the figure. The plain skirt is trimmed with several bands of the velvet running straight round it, and the long drapery is so cleverly arranged on the sides that the bands neither take from the height of the wearer nor cause her to look too broad. This drapery is also very gracefully caught up at the back, and fastened to a single handsome button, and two of the same buttons are placed on the col d'officier at the heck. No. 3 may be made in any light colour ; the original was of maize-tinted net over satin inerveilleux of the same shade, the drapery being of silver stitched embroidered tulle, which had a wonderfully fairy-like effect. The shape of the satin merveilleux, as let into the back of the bodice, was most becoming to the figure, and the manner in which fulness was arranged

in front, edged slightly on one side with double frills of white tulle, was extremely chaste and modest; and looking at it one could but feel how much more becoming and womanly is a corsage of this kind than the extremely decollete ones which are said, to have led a Bishop to exclaim that since dresses were made so long in the skirt he supposed there was none of the material left for the body. The echarpe which finished off this graceful corsage was brought into so elegant a point both in front and behind as to give length to the waist. Bands of brown satin round the under-skirt beneath the maize net, and tufts of brown feathers formed a lovely finish to the whole. The sketch at the top of the right-hand corner of the page represents the Theatre Bodice. It is of blue velvet and cream piece lace. This casaque bodice of dark blue velvet fastens at the waist with a single button, and has a full slashed basque at the back. The sleeve is of the two materials. The Pierrot collarette is of lace. Waistcoats are still worn. We no longer have both sides of our dress alike. Draping is the most important part in chessmaking now. The new material for young ladies' dinner and dance dresses is cream Arab gauze. Scarves and sashes are very popular, and are worn with almost every elegant toilette. Mantles are little more than shoulder capes, with a narrow part of the front lengthened like a mantilla. The buttons on yachting costumes are quite studies : some of them are tiny oyster shells, most elaborately made. The fashionable handkerchiefs just now are small silk ones, with horseshoe borders ; many are made with horseshoes all over them. Very few things now go in jDairs ; one bow on one shoulder, or on one side of the skirt, suffices, and draperies are never the same on both sides. A new arrangement for a polonaise has the entire bodice covered with flat plaits, stitched down both back and front, the extra fulness allowed to flow into the skirt. Net is much used now, and also tulle, whilst, rising in the scale of expense, gauze and crepe form the chief and most fashionable materials for this season's ball gowns. The growing height of hats and bonnets is indeed somewhat startling, although the eye soon gets accustomed to it, and already begins to consider the low ones dowdy, and even unbecoming. Many mothers are puzzled how to dress a two-year-old boy. A small white and blue sailor suit gets over the difficulty. The skirt is plaited, there is a sailor collar to the full bodice, and a vest of colour. An old fashion of at least two-and-twenty years ago is just being revived. It is that of having a handsome vandyked and beaded black lace to overhang the edge of a tolerably bi'oad brimmed hat. To some extent it serves the purpose of a veil. Parasols made of two large handkerchiefs are to be seen, sometimes with the owner's monogram in one corner. They look uncommon, as the two handkerchiefs are laid over each other, and so fitted in that the corners of the upper one project between those of the lower. Black silk is most fashionably worn, with diagonal bands of woollen lace insertion let in. Some of these black silks are made up in the old-fashioned way without foundations and lining, so that the train floats with natural grace. Sleeveless jetted black lace jackets are most popular. They are tight -fitting, and have a fall of lace round the hips. They are worn over all sorts of dresses, and are to be seen in theatres at night, or at small entertainments, as well as at afternoon parties. Quite a new style of pinafore dress has been brought out, or rather revived, for it recalls the Juive gown of some years ago. The skirt is plain ; over this is a polonaise with no fastening, open beneath the arms, showing the silk underbodice, for the over- , dress is only half high. : Broche satins and silks, also the plain satins, are no longer used for mantles, and indeed look fearfully old-fashioned ; but corded silk, or faille Francaise, as the richer qualities are called, is exfcremely fashionable and almost as much used as beaded grenadine ; and although the latter material is rather high in price, it wears so admirably that it cannot be called expensive. It however requires to be lined to wear well, to avoid straining at the back seams. Literally the 'last new thing' in materials is a yak lace which is now being used for mantles by some of the best milliners. This lace is made in such a way that it can be separated and cut into shapes without injuring it at all, and the milliners shape from it long collars which fit round the neck of the mantle, coming down into a point at the waist in front. Sometimes also a piece is shaped from the neck behind, reaching the waist in a point ; and for a summer mantle the sleeves are made entirely of the lace.

"What a run there will be upon that naughty number of the Pall Mall Gazette when the mail arrives !