FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 347, 1 August 1885, Page 10

FASHION NOTES.

The sketches on page 20 taken at the famous Fete des Fleurs exhibit some very charniiiig costumes. No. 1 consisted of a pansee velvet bodice, opening on a white crepe de Chine chemisette, spangled with mauve silk spots ; a white crepe de Chine plain and plisse skirt, and a hat of white lace covered with light mauve moire ribbons and feathers. No. 2 was particularly striking. The hat was of olive-green straw, Jined with cream- coloured satin and riboons, and trimmed with corn and cornflowers. The bodice was of dark olive-green and cream-striped faille, the sides being in satin of a lighter shade, edged with chenille, and the skirt was of cream-coloured plisse ponge, edged at the bottom with the same chenille. The sunshade was of plisse crape to match, lined with white lace, and the flowers to be thrown were gathered inside the sunshade in. the most original manner possible. In toilette No. 3 the hat and dress were of black velvet and mauve crepe, relieved by sprays of tea-roses. No. 4, a costume very much noticed, is principally remarkable on account of the hat. This was a Tuscan straw, with a fan-shaped decoration of bronze velvet. The dress was of

white cashmere. The toilet in sketch No. 5 was composed of an embroidered white tulle chemisette and releve skirt, and a somewhat dark pearl-grey bodice and pouff, laced with black velvet, the waistband and side -knots being of the same material. The bonnet was of embroidered white tulle, trimmed with feuille-de-rose ribbons and strings, and tea-roses, and the sunshade was entirely white.

Moires are again the fashion. Fans are for the most part of satia or painted gauze; feather fans are for show rather than for use. Gauze ribbons are largely used on dresses and millinery, and the plain soft silk ribbons with pearl edges. The collars of dresses are still very stiff and high, and plaitings and gatherings appear on many of the bodices. Kid gloves are worn by children, but silk more than anything else, except cotton. Both are to be had in a large choice of colours, and with the length of two or three buttons. A yoxmg lady is well dressed now if she has a full treble net skirt, whose sole trimming consists of either one large sash, or else a judicious arrangement of long narrow bows and ends on the skirt ; and a silk, plush, or moire bodice will last out many of these. Bonnets entirely made of flowers are perfect for matinees or weddings, aud look best with a comparatively simple yet elegant toilette. A bonnet entirely made of lilac has an aigrette of lilies of the valley, bachelors' buttons, and forget-me-nots. A new chemical preparation, called celluloid, resembling light colored tortoise shell or pink coral, or creamy jade, forms the handles of some of the new parasols, and takes the shape of birds' and animals' heads as well as other designs. It is also converted into combs and other ornaments. Tulle dresses are very much in favour for evening wear, and are sometimes sprinkled with flowers or rose-petals ; the dark tints are worn as much as the light ones, and are even preferred by young women. Eed tulle looks best with a low velvet, moire, or satin corsage, trimmed with a simpie tulle drapery. Fancy jewellery is coming a little into favour again under certain restrictions. Sil- ! ver bracelets with little bells on them, like a pet dog's collar, are immensely worn, and so are necklaces of old silver medals made just to go round the collar of the dress. Etruscan colliers with little points of metal attached to tiny chains are also elegant. A pretty dress for an Italian tambourine girl is a plain red skirt trimmed with blue and gold, a blue upper skirt, cut after the Italian fashion, with a point on the left side ; a crimson and black sorselet bodice, with gold buttons ; a white chemisette with sleeves to the elbow, and led armlets over a colored silk haddkerchief loosely knotted over the shoulder ; gold coin ornaments ; an Italian head dress of red silk, and sequins square on the head, falling in an end on the back ; a tambourine attached to the side. The costume might be made in cheap cotton or woollen stuff. j