FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 162, 20 October 1883, Page 18

FASHION NOTES.

By "Jenny Wben."

A very useful dress 'Eot- travelling, much in vogue this summer, is the-, so-called " horse-cloth costume." For lawn dresses, the skirts, are pleated and trimmed with three bands of, ruby velvet, either brown or dart' green. A pretty Japanese sunshade is of silk, lined •with gold. It is edged with a gold band, and is embroidered with, silk and gold thread. A pretty dress for a little boy is of white pique, trimmed with embroidery'; cap of blue cloth, with plaid band and blue wool pompons. Another style of chapeau is of Manilla straw, lined with dark velvet. A velvet bow trims the left side, and a bouquet of mixed flowers is placed in front. A pretty chapeau is of bronze straw, lined with bronze velvet; bronze satin strings, figured with velvet moons ; wreath of (lowers, witli satin and pearls. A handsome skirt is of bouillonne surah, covered partly with Chantilly ilounces, the gauged corsage having fichu, jabot, and sabots of Chantilly., Large straw hats assume very fantastic shapes, for they are mostly trimmed with flowers, feathers being reserved for more stylish but less eccentric chapeaux. A very pretty visiting dress is of shot surah, to represent the dawn, trimmed with reclish Ince and a large " Madame Royal " sash of pink moire, shot with old-gold. A nice chapeau is of moss-green straw, plaited with capuchin chenille, and trimmed with niyosotis, moss, and wood flowers, the brim being lined with myosotis-blue surah. Cretonne costumes are being made for walks in j the woods, of a serviceable steel-grey colour, flowered with dark red pinks ; the chapeau being of grey straw, trimmed with red satiu and pinks. A very noticeable, dress worn by a lady at the \ theatre last week was made De La Mode style, the material being Japanese surah, the flounces edged with Spanish lace, ribbons for the waist to match 'with buckle. A pretty moss-green voile, with " veille d'ours " velvet, is a handsome combination. The corsage has velvet revera and a pleated foulard •waistcoat, the skirt being pleated and edged with three velvet bands. A very fasniohable chapeau is of natural coloured osier, with strings o? crushed strawberry ottoman. The front is filled in with crushed strawberry chenille ; bunch of flowers in front, with indiarubber stalks. A dress for a girl of thirteen: The skirt of grey cashmere, with panels embroidered in brown, and fan pleatinas ; cashmere cacique embroidered in front, ;tnd brown velvet waistcoat ; brown straw hat, trimmed with shaded jjrrey feathers. A style of casque is of blue ottoman, with lace plastron and rovers; lace skirt, edged with (wo flounces of blue satin; white straw hat, lined with blue velvet, and trimmed with white feathers : ottomau bow in front, in tin* plastron. A pretty sunshade is covered with red l;i<:i\ and has a bouquet of roses, and some bird.-; on one side. A vevy fashionable lady ou^ht to have sunshades for each of her toilettes, made ot ; tiie same materials and trimmed with the same trimmings. A becoming dress for n boy or girl of four years • is of cream cashmere, with cream lace skirt, and cashmere casaque ; added creineinfed basque:-, bound with grenat satin ; eroinelate.d pelerine and paromenl-s ; white straw hat, lined with rod velvet. A pretty style for surah skirts is large triple box-pieals, joined together iind kept in place by hows of ribbon. Ottoman skirls are made up in much the same way, having panels separated by sui'ah fan pleating?, also kept in place by strings of ribbon tying across. Pretty and serviceable dresses are of chequered black and white sura.h, the skirt arranged in deep fluted pleats, kept in place by a black velvet band ; puffed paniers, with loops of black velvet, and behind are puffs and cascades of surah mixed with black velvet. A reception dress is of black lace and broche velvet gauze ; pleated skirt of satin mervcilleux ; gauze tablier, edged wirh lace, forming a coquillc robing at the sides; lace drapery; two lace flounces form paniers to the pointed gauze corsage. Fichu of satin merveilltux and black lace ; elbovvA.sleeves with lace sabots. . l • Visiting costumes s for the summer are made of glace fiance and ciirr^nt-red batiste. The skirt, is pleated, and tlpjlgra^efui .tablier. and robings are beautifully eruj^i<i'ere.d with cotton.. Puffed drapery hehindrafcie,' cprsage 1 is embroidered like the tunicf.; Capeline teoVered with/pleated muslin; strings of '-currant-red' Satin. . ' ■• ■ . ■' : ■• A very 'pretty corsage- and tunic are of .Pekin blue velvet and cream"" satin, figured with., roses. The corsage is^ry; pointed; and is. edged with a bias band' of blue velvet ; cream satin fichu and velvet bow'; chapeau of white straw, lined with blue velvet and trimmed with a large velvet bow, and lace cockade ; long seude gloves, covering the' sleeves; The Watteau style is very fashionable, vicing with sailor costumes in popularity. The sailor dress is ; vei?y -becoming to ladies who are still young enough to wear it.. When made of cream sicilienne, trimmed with bands of . French blue velvet, with anchors embroidered in gold or silver ou the revers of the collar, it is extremely stylish. Indian voile can also be used, trimmed with wide blue braid,' the' anchors embroidered in white 'or blue wool. A graceful style of polonaise for girls over eight is very, short in front and at the sides, cut into a very short rounded tablier without draping. 8 The backs are very long, and fall in two long pleated, coatrtails .to the lowest flounce of the skirt. The material of which' one of these polonaises is inja.de is, a delicate figured blu.e-gq.tin surah, edged with handsome pnibroidery, worked on blue cashmere with silk.' .- The' pleated skirb is

of f ,piain blue surah, edged with embroidery, wh|ch falls over i blue 1 balayeuae. The pelerine it <k embroidery, and the parements also. A considerable number 6f dresses are made of lawn, or lawn batiste of velvet. -The embroidery is the more dressy, and is preferred for moreelaborate toilettes. One dress is of bronze lawn batiste, edged with Byzantine embroidery in open work stars and rosaces ; St. Louis blue and brick red in colour. The skirt is pleated, and has two bands of embroidery insertion round the edge, two lawn scarves edged with embroidery forming paniers. The corsage is gauged and pleated, with points back and front, terminating m blue and brick ribbons. A broom-straw jookey chapeau is worn with this dress, ornamented with a. plume of red and blue feathers.