FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 6, Issue 155, 1 September 1883, Page 18

FASHION NOTES.

THE COMING- SFMMEft TOILLETTES.

The coming summer toilettes at Home have amply fulfilled their promises of beauty and freshness. .They are in the lightest, most airy fabrics, crape voiles, canvas batistes, silky broche grenadines eoliennes and louisines ; then all the pretty varieties of fancy silks are in vogue, (especially the glace taffetas with showers of velvety leaves. The leaves are broche in relief, and look as if they had just fallen from the trees, nipped by the first frost of autumn. Among the coming summer fashions is a charming toilette of canvas batiste, bordered with a deep and exceedingly fine pleating. Fleecy rounded draperies cross the front and are caught up on the left side by rosettes of ruby ribbon velvet. Each drapery is bordered by a fine pleating of Saxony lace. The corsage is edged "with two pleatings of lace, and a coquille of lace forms a jabot in front with bands of ruby velvet passing over the shoulders, and ending in flat bows back and front. For dresses of shot silk the following is a good style : — The skirt, of shot flamme de punch taffetas, is covered with flounces cut in long scollops pinked out at the edge ; these flounces are, re- ) markably pretty and effective, the long points fluttering at every movement. A narrow, but ! very full, scarf edges the corsage, and falls at the back in two puffed ends. The corsage is a paysanne jacket of blue Indian cashmere, the fronts loose over the waistcoat of fancy material but the backs fitting closely, the pleated basque resting on the puff. Velvet jackets in the predominating shade of the shot silk are very much worn with these dresses, but cashmere is the material most generally combined with shot silk. Por instance, ■with a pleated skirt of shot peony and gold 'silk there is a paysanne tunic of deony cashmere, with very full paniers and a short puff. The jacket is of silk, with a short flat basque formed of a thick ruche of pinked-out silk. The chapeau is of peony straw, bent down on the right, and turned upon the left, and ornamented ■with a great bunch of dandelions, the centre of each flower being of peony velvet. This, however, is a mixture of colours that demands some moral courage on the part of the ■wearer, and far prettier and easier to wear are the fashionable toillettes of lace combined with some rich silken fabric, either Ottoman or brocade. A charming summer dress is made with a plain skirt of dull silk in front, ornamented only with a thick ruche at the edge ; over this is a lace tablier gathered in at the waist, and falling in i natural folds on the skirt, the edge finished off •with a very narrow lace edging bordered with moss fringe. The back consists of two breadths of brocade pleated and caught up to form a alight puff. The corsage is of brocade double-breasted and ornamented with a rich drapery of lace sparkling with little jet pendants. Satin ribbon strings start from the side seams, and are fastened on the point of the corsage under a buckle of old strass. This costume simple as it is in form, is most ladylike and elegant. Surah has lost but little of its prestige especially when embroidered, in which case it is employed for very elaborate toilettes. One of these is of embroidered surah and faille in the fashionable creamy magnolia shade ; the surah is embroidered a Vanfflaise, that is in open work, in a pattern of large marguerites. This material forms a deep flounce, above Tthich is a tunic of voile falling from the waist in large round pleats and caught up at the hips and in a puff. The corsage is of embroidered surah and opens wide over a Molirie plastron of lace, the two sides joined at intervals from the neck to the point by very Barrow ribbon strings. A sabot of lace ornaments the elbow sleeve. With this dress is worn a wide brimmed Lyon straw liat, the brim covered "with sprays of white and mauve lilac. At the back, under the brim, is a spray of white lilac fastened with a ribbon falling on the neck. A very pretty summer toilette is of lawn with narrow satin stripes and a printed pattern of large drooping iris blossoms in white and pale violet. The skirt is of lace over a foundation of Parma violet-coloured faille, three ruches of tealose faill6;,b.ordering it at the edge. The tunic is of ba|iste^ full from the waist, puffed and caught" -iip. at the -hips with flat, bows of pale violet, wfaiise, and tearrose ribbons. '•• The corsage is of batiste'^'a^palfe. yiojet lining, pleated and crossed front S^d^bacl^ lea.ving t the^hroat exposed in a very pretfeferoanne£/; , ■ifie '^tin sash ribbons are fattened itf;fro^t' s D|iaVt^ss.;.buckle and the sleeves are puflred ;v-%he chapeau 'fokiwear with the dress^^^^H^anilla^.Btr§^./(^ere^ i with. an immense bunch of clover blossoms. ' J A simpler, but * at the same time very elegant dress, is of azuline summer cashmere, with a broehe design of tiny cherries and foliage. The skirt is perfectly plain* -without flounces or trimmings of any kind. The tunic covers the edge of the corsage, and folds like a second skirt, draped with a few pleats at •the v hips ' and .-ornamented with ,a flat . bow $£ canaque ribboif; velvet. The folds fall naturally and gracefully, and are retained at the back with another flat bow. The corsage is flat, the right side pleated and crossed over to the left, and erding" under the pleats of the tunic. In the opening cA, the neck is a plastron of canaque vf-lvet. The siiial l capote is of brown willow plait,, interfcwm.'.'fi .with maroon -red velvet-; a large bonqm-r of cherries, fastened \up with ;i knot; o; r.xl velvet, is put on the lvit sido of t ! o crown tit the top, and the strings are of i-irrow red velvot. Dresses are also wade of <'.-:ceotlingly proii y ,yl;ico batistes, ainl tiijiny are < i plaid '/A^hyr^ ; but ciinibvios and batistes with prtterns of ilovors brnutifuilv printed, although oft mi in strung I.*1 .* colours, are even more fashionable. A new model for the seaside is of chequered silk and velvet, fastened at the neck' txnd ohesr. only, and ornamented .'each sido of the front -with a revers of velvet. The backus nearly ti^ht-litting, and open from below the waist with velvet rovers, The open Japanese sleeve is lined with silk and h'orde'red'-witii. velvets "A similar sretement is-macie-in broche afletas; the front has a pleated plastron

from the chest only, ending in a point under the bow of the ribbon sash which starts from the side seams. ' The back is made with a Watteau pjest draped in a puff on the skirt ; a narrow collariaiid the plain parements on the coat sleeves are of velvet. The lining is of satin in one of" the colours of the broche. Rich materials are now reserved for indoor wear, either at dinners or receptions. A' very handsome toilette lately made is ofsatin de Lyon, the rounded train arranged in large fluted pleats over narrow pleatings of crepe de Chine, the puff being also formed of crepe de Chine. The tablier is of broche velvet gauze, the corsage of satin de Lyon, with a long point in front and three points at the back ; a drapery of crepe de Chine crosses the skirt in front, and ends under the puff. .Lace ornaments the neck and sleeves, and a. large spray of roses is placed on the left side of the skirt. A lovely little cape of broche gauze sparkles with jet beads, which outline the whole of the design ; it has the usual seam from the neck to the shoulder, and thence to the edge, with the fashionable raised shoulder, and is trimmed with a thick ruche *of Grenada lace, with a long fringe of square, blocks of jet falling over it. Another model, intended for a rather stout lady who prefers to conceal her figure a little when out of doors, is formed of chenille insertion and jetted lace -, it is soft and light, and moulds the shoulder well, falling , thence a little below the waist,, and.tied in front. ' > Others are of chenille in very novel patterns, '; or of canvas gauze sprinkled with velvet or chenille flowers, and bordered with chenille 5 fringe. An exceedingly new and pretty pelerine { is of jetted passementerie, the designs forming a 1 wide insertion composed of rosettes or stars ; at \ the neck is a flat collar o£ silk covered with pleatings of very narrow lace, and the edge is ornamented with a rich jetted fringe. Many are studded with chenille balls; others are of satin inerveilleus, wifch. the sleeve part of lace or jetted j neb. ■■..'■ i Visites are rcade principally for the summer of i broche velvet on grenadine, lined with old gold, red, or crushed strawberry satin, the colour appearing here and there through the meshes of the grenadine, which is well covered by the large design. \ Mantles are made short and puffed, and ! raised at the back, but are considerably tightened over the shoulders and chest — in fact, the move they restrict the arms the greater is their elegance. The large, loosely • fitting blouse is the most popular shape still for dust-cloaks, but some alterations have been made in its shape to render it better adapted for this purpose and for summer wear generally.