BUSTLES RETURN

Timaru Herald, Volume CXLV, Issue 21304, 25 March 1939, Page 11

BUSTLES RETURN

NEXT SEASON’S FASHIONS The most important Parisian dress houses have now revealed all the fashion secrets for next season, and the buyers arc in the throes of making their choice. writes Jane Gordon. Paris correspondent for the London -Daily Telegraph and Morning Post.” One of the most eagerly awaited of the dress openings was that of Balenciaga. whose collection had such a

KNITTED CAI’ — Excellent to the modern hairdressing. In order to obtain the best material effect it. is advisable to use woollen Houele especially if you do not use too coarse a crochethook. .1 little tightening cap is crocheted with a diameter of iilioiil ID cm. If the crochet is not wanted too solid the method shown in fig. ais recommended, u'ith exception of the first to (i rows which arc crocheted in d.c. The border is crocheted by tiro uniform strips, the measures arc given in the diagram fig. b, which corresponds to about lOst. width and 100 rows in length, outside dimensions. The rounding appears by crocheting the three extreme st. on each five rows, turning the work and go back. At last the two strips arc sewn together and fixed on the cap so that they meet in front where they are turned up. At last the cap is edged with a small ribbon which ends in a bow. 19 c.m. - 7iin. 16 c.m. - 6 5-16 in. 5, 5 c.m. -2 3-16 in. 31, 5 c.m. -123 in.

success last season. This show includes a series o r 189. dresses that are not in the slightest degree “gay”; in fact the silhouette, colouring, and materials are distinctly sombre. Most of these gowns are worn with pearl dog collar necklaces. One evening dress is in pinky beige satin with a high bodice; another is in white satin with an “old lady” shade of mauve bustle. Some of the bustle skirts are flat and drawn up at the centre back with a drawstring. Many of the full-skirted dresses are hooped out at the side over the hips. A great many evening gowns of linen and pique have skirts which hang in straight folds from the tight-fitting bodice, which fits well down over the hips, and insertions of broderie Anglaise are used. Peasant Hats One little day frock, with an accordion pleated skirt, is worn with pink and black striped silk stockings like those worn in the illustrations in the original “Alice in Wonderland.” There are also knife pleated and accordion pleated skirts with tight-fitting jackets of a contrasting shade.

COLOURED COURT GOWN'S The Queen has relaxed the condi- | lion that Court dresses must Ire white, j "Colours may be worn, but it is ad- j visable to avoid bright reds and blues,” Her Majesty told officials at the Brit- ; ish Industries Fair. The Queen said she admired the ? 1 golden and silver-grey Court dresses' : displayed at the fair. The fashionable • i salons, almost without exception, feat- I ure white. I "The Daily Mail" points out that the I '' regulations concerning the length and • cut of Court dresses will be rigidly ' . I enforced. The King and Queen have ■

also indicated that they should be of British manufacture.

Mainbocker’s collection is full of Parisian peasant day dresses, full of skirt and tight of bodice, each with its own little basket and umbrella slung over the mannequin's arm. each with a tall, crowned peasant hat ai.d gay plaid or gingham gloves. The day frocks look like coats and skirts, and are really coat frocks, whereas the coats look like afternoon dresses with tiered skirts. Molyneux is showing printed crepes for evening wear. One of these, reproducing the f .mous sunflower picture of Vincent van Gogh, is on a pale turquoise background. For daytime the all-over prints include the “Chateau de M. Chamberlain,” and an all-over design of every sigarette packet of France, England, and America. The silhouette for day is either slim and straight, or else has the swing skirts with the broad waistband of the some material and the top part of the dress in figured crepe lingerie or linen.

FASHIONS STRAIGHT FROM PARIS As there is no great change in midseason fashions the Parisienne has to wait until next month to know what the leading Parisian couturiers created fcr her, so the following will deal only with spring hats, which have just made their appearance in new collection They are in general all very small, flat, and round like a disc, and seem to be rather big motifs than hats, tilted forward over the right eye; in the centre is a big bunch of fruit or flowers mixed with a bow’ or veil or ribbon, or tmy birds. Sometimes the centre is open in order to let the curls free, a most charming effect A ribbon is attached at the back in order to keep the hat steady. Small toques apparently have the shape of a bourrelet, but they actually are open like a cup, containing flowers, a group of birds, or tiny bows of ribbon But besides these, which are the chief characteristics in millinery fashions, a great many other shapes in larger size are created by Parisian milliners, and most of the lime are made of petersham or light straw <bakou being much in favour), and ornamented with a coloured ribbon. Bruyere presents an oval sailor made of blue petersham with a large incrustation in white Rose Valois, a large britton hat made of a new braid called "Royal," trimmed with blue ribbon; Agnes, a turban made of blue petersham. trimmed with a pink galloon. Suzy shows, in iier new collection, hats made of a new material called “plastic material"; it is transparent or opaque; a turban made of this plastic material has a bird in its centre whose straight up tail gives the effect of a pheasant feather. Some of these hats are trimmed with silk.

Jeanne Blanchot presents a delightful triangular padding in sewed black picot, full, like a cup, of velvet hyacinths. held by tw’o velvet 'ribbons of different cherry shades matching the flowers. Does this mean that w 7 e are going to see the Parisienne under a quite new’ appearance, for it is said in Paris that she will soon leave the Edwardian hairdressing to adopt the Cadogan called "A la dauphin." which has already been seen in a recent society gathering.