FLOWER GARDEN

Timaru Herald, Volume CXLIII, Issue 20675, 13 March 1937, Page 14 (Supplement)

FLOWER GARDEN

THE CULTURE OF BULBS IN BOWLS Now that winter is approaching we realise that some sort of effort is necessary if we are to have any flowers during the chilly days to come. The culture of bulbs in bowls is a comparatively simple matter, and gives great pleasure to those who adopt it. To achieve the best results the plants must be examined frequently, and when growth commences the interest increases from day to day. The bulbs should be placed in the compost not later than the first week of April. Selecting the Bulbs The first essential is. to procure only the best and strongest bulbs. It is not generally realised that all the flowers were formed within the bulbs at the end of the previous flowering season If one buys cheap bulbs of daffodils, Containing only one flower, or of hyacinths containing only, say, ten bells on the spike, the best cultural methods devised by man will hot add another flower to those already there. Good cultivation can only make the existent flowers bigger, and perhaps of better colour. Some of the best varieties of hyacinths for this work are Lady Derby, an exquisite pink; L’lnnoncence is white as may be inferred from the name; Grand Maitre is the finest of the blues. Daffodils are the essence of spring and many Of the numerous varieties are suitable for growing in undrained bowls; Croesus, Gloria

Mundi; Dawson City; Flretail; and Centurion are my favourites but there are many others. The polyanthus type should not be overlooked as they are the first to produce their blooms. Solid d'Orls a pretty yellow variety, Starlight has a golden cup and Ivory petals. The Hoop Petticoat and its paler variety, Citrinus and N. trlandrus. Queen of Spain are gqms which if planted with a generous hand will give lots of pleasure for several weeks. Crocuses. Freesias and Lachenallas may also be successfully grown in bowls. The latter are very attractive and may be had in several different shades of colour. They last for several weeks when cut. Lachenalla pendula has pretty spikes of red flowers appearing in June; Pearson! comes next with beautiful red buds which become orange yellow as they open; Aurea lasts from July until the end of August. Its blossoms are of a very pleasing shade of yellow. When planting it is best to use only .one variety per bowl. Some growers choose different varieties of daffodils or hyacinths to give more colour to their bowls, but this Is only successful when the different sorts flower at the same time. Bowls and Compost The bowls should be simple in shape and colour so that they will not distract attention from, or clash with, the flowers growing in them. The most convenient size is about fifteen inches in diameter and some five inches deep. Glazed bowls are best because they may be set about the room without spotting the most highly polished woodwork. The compost may be made up of fibre, well decayed leaf mould or clean, black bush-soil. The material used should be passed through a quar-ter-inch sieve and mixed with one part in four of ground oyster grit, such as is given to fowls. A little pulverised charcoal added tends to keep the compost sweet. When the compost has been thoroughly mixed it should be dampened by small quantities of water. It should never be wet enough to allow water to be squeezed out when a small amount is pressed tightly in the nand Planting the Bulbs A few lumps of charcoal should be placed in the bottom of the bowls to absorb impurities and thus keep the compost sweet. The bowls may then be filled to the depth of about one half, for large bulbs such as hyacinths, and to within an inch or so of the tip for smaller sorts such as crocuses or lachenallas The material should not be packed down too tightly. The bulbs are now placed on the top leaving iu-t

enough room for the tips of the fingers between each. The bowl may then be filled up with compost. The extreme tips of the bulbs should be just covered before the Initial watering. This operation will cause the compost to settle down slightly and expose those tips. . Growing Them On The secret of success in flowering bulbs out of season is perfect rootdevelopment before the tops begin to grow. To induce this the bowls should be placed in a cool, dark, airy place fo rthe first six or eight weeks. An airy cupboard will do if there is no fire in the room. During this time no watering should be necessary, but it is best to make weekly inspections to see that all is well. If they are allowed to become dry, If but for one day, the bulbs may go blind and fall to flower. Nothing is so essential as to keep the compost moist to the very bottom, but there must be no stagnant water. When watering becomes necessary the bowls should be placed carefully into a basin of luke-warm water which should cover them completely. When soaked they should be held sideways so that all superfluous water may drain off. To prevent any displacement, the contents should be supported by the open hand during the operation. When the growing shoots are about an inch long, the plants may be brought into the light, but should not be exposed to strong sunshine until they have turned a bright healthy green. When growing in a window they are best removed to the middle of the room during the night if there is any danger of frost. No manure should be used.