A TRIP TO THE MACKENZIE COUNTRY.

Timaru Herald, Volume XLIII, Issue 3535, 27 January 1886, Page 8

A TRIP TO THE MACKENZIE COUNTRY.

(CONTRIBUTED.) On the 2Glh of December last myself and a companion found ourselves on tho undulating ground and slopes of tho Tasuian downs, on the eastern side of tho Tasman river, near the head of Lake Pukaki. From this point, nnd within a distaneo north and south of about ten miles, perhaps tho best views of Mount Cook can bo obtained. Tho Tasman river valley extends about twenty-five miles from the base of the mountain to tho lake, is about four miles wide, and appears to tho eye perfectly level and straight all the way. It 13, however, shoaled and curved and isled by the ever shifting rapid streams of the Tnsman. A bold and lofty range of mountains abruptly rises on the western side of tho valley, and its peaks regularly increase m height and m extent of snowy mantle, from the lake side below the delta of tho river up to Mount Cook. This range being parallel with the wide level river Uat, and the gently sloping rising ground on tho eastern side, forni3 n grand vista, at tho extremity of which stands Mount Cook, high uplifted nbovo tho high mountains, which circle liko peers around their king. Though grand the scene, our thoughts wero for a while turned to whero tho Tasman river projects its dangerous quicksands into the lake ; quicksands long to bo remembered m sadness by tho bereaved friends of tho late Mr Thomson, of Glen Tanner. Only a'few weeks previous to our visit ho launched his boat to cross tho lako for his homo on tho other side. The boat was found a few days after stranded on tho Glen Tnnner side, but no clue could bo found as to tho fato of its occupant ; no earthly eyo but that of tho waterfowl— which hero abounds — even saw whether lie was drowned m Pukaki's waters, or engulfed m the treacherous quicksands. At the head of tho lake ho lies ; for a monument tho Tasman Island ; for a shroud the cloud of glacial dust that ever with tho wind comes down tho Tasman Valley. Looking northward up this valley Mount Cook is clearly seen. Through most part of tho day no clouds obscured our view. Besides tho I range at tho other sido of tho rivor, other great mountain ranges converge and culminate m height as they approach their great centre. A glorious robe of purest white hangs over around his form ; his ice-pinnacled crown boldly cleaves tho blue sky. Around, his peers m over silent homage stand, their coronets less high, yet scarcely less gloriously clothed m their drapery of snow. Though often hidden by fleecy masses of cloud, this day the king throw by his vnporous robe 3 and stood revealed m Bmiling, yet majestic, aspect, affording to us ono of tho grandest scenes by which Nature teaches and reminds that sho has a great Creator of whose power this mountain lord and his attendants aro but tUo finger work. Long would we fain have gazed from thoso pleasant tussock-clad braes. Thoughts of tho past, realities of the present, imaginings of tho futuro crowd tho brain and move tho heart to various moods, as fitfully blows und changes the pure air from thy throne, Aorangi ! I cannot refrain from apostrophising. My natal plain, between tho dark waters of tho Barrow and tho clear streams of Slanoy, recurs to memory, whero tho gently swelling heath-covered Wicklow Hills formed the eastern boundary of vision, and on tho west Slieve Bloom's verdant long-extended ridge. In form, magnitude, coloring and surroundings how different that scene of my youth from that on which I was then gazing m rapture. 1 feel the difficulty experienced by a person long used to level or undulating scenery, to give anything like a description of this mountain picture— bright sun, clear sky, Bummer breeze, deliciously cooled by mountain snow, Mount Cook cloar from base to summit. Two Hanking gorges aro at either side of its base, with dark, frowning entrances,

forbidding, jot strangely inviting tbo adventurous step of the hardy pedestrian. Now and again light clouds, like rerial messengers, come quickly from all quarters, as if message laden from distant mountain thrones, some far beyond the sea. Some bb quickly move away again, while others cluster for a few moments around tho crown, veiling, whilo miuistering to the beauty of tho king. Other clouds gather around tho middle height, showing the bright sun-lit peaks, as if severed from tho dark base. Around is the storehouse of tho winds j beside and beneath tho mighty glacial and . riparian forces ever work their way, cleaving and grinding the mighty ribs, to form tho corn-growing, iloek-feeding soils of the plains, or strew with shingle the desolate beach between tho mouth of the rapid Waitangi and Tiniaru. Tho mountains hngo away shall fleo, Tho hills and valleys ceaso to bo, And thoro shall bo no moro a sea. No more a sea ! Farewell ! Though I may never again Bee thy form or tread those pleasant braos, thine image on my memory is iinpreßsrd, adding another to the many blessings bestowed by our common Croator. A few half-decayed moa bones nnd roots of tho indigenous Mount Cook lily wo brought away as mementos of our visit. A few remarks on tho downs and sloping grounds where wo spent that very pleasant day may not be unacceptable. After leaving Tekapo" Lake, on the road to Braemar about ten mile 9, the land steadily improves m quality to tho Tasumn river. By the eastern sido of this river, and past Pukaki Lake, from Burnett's station down a distanco of over twenty miles, with an average breadth of about five miles, including the Braomar Company's station and Mr George Nowland's property on Tasman downs, the land is of good quality, rich, of good depth and well watered, and tho soil appears to bo of an alluvial and glacial formation. Tho soil, though deep and fertile, is not of sufficient body or strength for -wheat-growing. Tho extent of land mentioned is nearly all ploughablo and easily worked. In many places tho water is found springing from tho ground, and several over running streams offer a considerable amount of available power tempting to tho speculative machinist or wheelwright. The winters, at this altitude (about 1800 feet above tho sea level) and tho vicinity of tbo snow-covered mountains, are often severe, frosty weather often prevailing for many weeks with occasional falls of snow. The winds are very boisterous and frequent during rammer, so much so that the exposed soil, being of a highly pulverised character, is blown about like dust. Somo largo paddocks on tho Braemar station, lately brought under cultivation by the enterprising manager, Jlr Stevenson, show with what small amount of labor and m -what short space of time those fertile downs may bo clothed m nutritious grasses and clovers, or made to produce luxuriant crops of oats and succulent and farinaceous roots. The chief obstacles to farmers aro tho prevalence of dry winds m summer and autumn, and the of ten long continued frost m winter. Theso drawbacks render it difficult to grow forest or fruit trees. The want of wood for shelter, fuel, and farming and general purposes will be a drawback to settlers for somo considerable time. Nearness to tho markets by improvement of roads will como m time, and tho pioneers of settlement on tho western shores of Pukaki Lako aud the Tasman River will find that not only the grand mountain and lako sconery, but the rich soil, adapted to tho growth of grasses, oats and roots, will attract settlers eager to found a homo m this beautiful and interesting part of the island.